Instructions - Homemade Candle Making Craft
There are a number of procedures for making homemade candles. Some of the more popular methods include wax crystal candles, paraffin candles, and gel candles. Using these methods, you can craft many different types of candles. Included in this articles are basic instructions and techniques for these types of candles.
Wax crystals are the most versatile candle making medium, allowing you to make either melted container or molded candles, or simpler sand art candles. Since wax crystals are loose, they can be poured like sand into a container. Insert a wick into the center of the container, and light the candle. This candle may be scented by stirring in a quantity of liquid fragrance after the candle is poured.
Note: Parafin is a petroleum product and is VERY flammable, so be very careful with the wax around any heat source.
Instructions For Making Home Made Candles From Wax Crystals
Container and molded candles may also be easily made from the wax crystals. The wax crystals are poured into a small metal sauce pan or boiler bag. This is placed into a bigger pan which has been about half filled with water. This water is placed on the kitchen range, and boiled until the wax melts. Now you may add fragrance wafers, Stirring in as it melts.
While the wax is melting, prepare the container or mold. For containers, insert a wick into the wick anchor, press tabs down securing the wick and place centering on the bottom of the container. Lay a piece of balsa wood across the top of the container. Pin the wick to the balsa strip with a dressmakers pin, allowing very little slack in the wick.
Mold preparation depends on the type of mold you have. Acrylic molds have a hole at the bottom. Pull the wick through this hole, and secure on the bottom with a generous amount of modeling clay. Seal well! Pin the wick to a balsa strip at the top in the manner described for container candles. Snap molds consist of two halves which are snapped securely together. The wick is anchored by a special indentation at the bottom of the mold into which the wick is inserted before the two halves are assembled. Secure the wick at the top in the manner already described. Tray molds are the easiest to use. Pour the wax into the mold and insert the wick after the wax has cooled somewhat. Pop the candle from the mold after it cools.
For the best candles, the wax should be about 160 degrees. Use a candle making thermometer to measure the temperature. Carefully pour the wax into the container or mold. Keep a little wax back. After the wax cools, there will be a depression in the center of the candle. Melt the wax you saved back again, and top up the container.
You can pour multi-color candles by using more than one color of wax. Prepare the mold or clear glass container. Melt the wax one color at a time and pour, allowing time for the previous layer to cool before the next layer is poured. This is necessary to prevent color ‘bleed’ from one layer to another.
Allow the wax to cool completely to make removal from mold easier. Pull firmly up on wick, and squeeze the sides of the mold to loosen wax. Snap molds should separate easily. Seam marks can be removed by polishing with an old nylon stocking.
Basic Technique For Homemade Candles From Parafin Slabs
Candles made from raw paraffin must have the other ingredients added to them. Melt the paraffin using the double boiler method described for wax crystals, after breaking into smaller chunks. After melting, add colorant, fragrance, stearine, and luster in the amounts indicated by the manufacturer. Candles made this way are usually superior to wax crystal candles, but are a little more trouble to make.
Molded can be used as is, or you may decorate them in various ways. If you wish to paint or decorate the candle, first apply two or three coats of an acrylic sealer. After this has dried, acrylic paints, stickers, or rub on decals may be applied. Decoupage methods may also be used. Modge Podge is used to adhere photos, cloth, ribbon, greeting cards, dried flowers, seeds, herbs, beads - the list is endless.
The basic procedures for making home made candles are not hard. You just need to make sure you carefully follow the instructions and develope your technique through practice. The instructions for the process of making candles in the home are not complicated or lengthy. A few basic steps can allow the home crafter to make candles like a pro.
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Thursday, February 09, 2012
Wednesday, February 08, 2012
Candle Making Equipment
Candle Making Equipment
Aspiring candle makers have three candle making methods to choose from. You can make them from ‘scratch’, use wax crystals, or utilize the new gel candle method. This article describes the equipment needed to make candles.
The best quality candles are made from raw paraffin which comes in one or ten pound slabs. Color, luster, hardener, and scent are added to the wax before pouring.
Stearine, the ingredient which hardens the paraffin, comes in powder form, as do the luster crystals. Opaque crystals impart a glossy sheen to the candle. Clear crystals
are used to make glow candles luminescence.
There are two types of wicks available in three sizes for candles one inch to six inches in diameter. Use the wick size suitable for the diameter of candle you are making. The two types of wick are braided and wire core. Use braided wicks for dipped and free standing candles and wire core for container candles.
Wick anchors are used to hold the wick secure to the bottom of container candles. The wick is inserted in to hole in the center of the anchor, and the tabs pressed down securely with a screwdriver. The tabs may be reused.
Raw paraffin is white. You must add dye to get colored candles. There are many colors to choose from, so you can make the candle just about any color you desire. Dye cakes are divided into six squares. Each square will dye about five pounds of wax.
Candle scents are also packaged in squares which are divided into six wafers. The individual wafers will perfume about five pounds of wax. More or less to your desire.
A newer and easier method of making candles is to use wax crystals. Wax crystals are packaged in twelve ounce bags, and are the consistency of sand. They can be melted, like paraffin, or poured into a heat resistant container and used as is for easy wax crystal candles. All ingredients have been added, so all you have to do is scent them, so a minimum of equipment is required to make this type.
To make molded and container candles melt the crystals in plastic boil bags, add fragrance, and pour into a container or mold of your choice.
Use the same equipment for these candle as described for the paraffin candles.
Gel candles are the newest innovation in candle making. A heat resistant kitchen pan is used to melt the gel. The gel melts at a lower temperature and in less time than wax crystals or wax. Melt the gel and pour into a container. These candles cannot be used in a mold. Clean up the gel with ammonia.
Specialized molds for candle making are heat resistant plastic or metal material. There are many shapes and sizes available including cylinder, round, votive, and floaters. Containers for candles can be of any heat resistant material. You may use metal, glass, or ceramic containers for your candles.
You will also need a soft wooden strip, like balsa, and a pin. This is used to secure the wick at the top of the container or mold.
Like any other hobby, candle making has its own specialized tools and equipment. To make molded and container candles, you will need something to melt the wax in. Use two metal sauce pans - one must be small enough to fit inside the other. Water is placed in the large pan, wax in the inner smaller one. Place on the kitchen range and boil the water in the large pan until the wax is melted. Boil bags may also be used to melt the wax. These are filled with wax and placed in a water filled sauce pan and boiled until the wax is melted.
This is a basic listing of the equipment needed for candle making.
Back to Homemade Candle Making
Aspiring candle makers have three candle making methods to choose from. You can make them from ‘scratch’, use wax crystals, or utilize the new gel candle method. This article describes the equipment needed to make candles.
The best quality candles are made from raw paraffin which comes in one or ten pound slabs. Color, luster, hardener, and scent are added to the wax before pouring.
Stearine, the ingredient which hardens the paraffin, comes in powder form, as do the luster crystals. Opaque crystals impart a glossy sheen to the candle. Clear crystals
are used to make glow candles luminescence.
There are two types of wicks available in three sizes for candles one inch to six inches in diameter. Use the wick size suitable for the diameter of candle you are making. The two types of wick are braided and wire core. Use braided wicks for dipped and free standing candles and wire core for container candles.
Wick anchors are used to hold the wick secure to the bottom of container candles. The wick is inserted in to hole in the center of the anchor, and the tabs pressed down securely with a screwdriver. The tabs may be reused.
Raw paraffin is white. You must add dye to get colored candles. There are many colors to choose from, so you can make the candle just about any color you desire. Dye cakes are divided into six squares. Each square will dye about five pounds of wax.
Candle scents are also packaged in squares which are divided into six wafers. The individual wafers will perfume about five pounds of wax. More or less to your desire.
A newer and easier method of making candles is to use wax crystals. Wax crystals are packaged in twelve ounce bags, and are the consistency of sand. They can be melted, like paraffin, or poured into a heat resistant container and used as is for easy wax crystal candles. All ingredients have been added, so all you have to do is scent them, so a minimum of equipment is required to make this type.
To make molded and container candles melt the crystals in plastic boil bags, add fragrance, and pour into a container or mold of your choice.
Use the same equipment for these candle as described for the paraffin candles.
Gel candles are the newest innovation in candle making. A heat resistant kitchen pan is used to melt the gel. The gel melts at a lower temperature and in less time than wax crystals or wax. Melt the gel and pour into a container. These candles cannot be used in a mold. Clean up the gel with ammonia.
Specialized molds for candle making are heat resistant plastic or metal material. There are many shapes and sizes available including cylinder, round, votive, and floaters. Containers for candles can be of any heat resistant material. You may use metal, glass, or ceramic containers for your candles.
You will also need a soft wooden strip, like balsa, and a pin. This is used to secure the wick at the top of the container or mold.
Like any other hobby, candle making has its own specialized tools and equipment. To make molded and container candles, you will need something to melt the wax in. Use two metal sauce pans - one must be small enough to fit inside the other. Water is placed in the large pan, wax in the inner smaller one. Place on the kitchen range and boil the water in the large pan until the wax is melted. Boil bags may also be used to melt the wax. These are filled with wax and placed in a water filled sauce pan and boiled until the wax is melted.
This is a basic listing of the equipment needed for candle making.
Back to Homemade Candle Making
Friday, February 03, 2012
American Civil War Toy Soldier - Metal And Plastic
American Civil War Toy Soldier - Metal And Plastic
Civil war toy soldiers replicate the honorable men who sacrificed much for their cause.
Plastic Toy Soldiers
The American Civil War was a tragic episode in our nation’s history. Great armies from the North and South clashed in bloody battles with thousands killed and wounded. Union and Confederate soldiers both believed in the rightness of their cause and many gave their lives in defense of it. It is estimated that there were Union casualties of 359,528 and Confederate casualties of 258,000 during that conflict, making it by far the bloodiest war in American History. The Civil War Soldier endured much, suffered, bled and died in great numbers.
Civil war toy soldiers replicate these honorable men, both Union and Confederate, and seek to commemorate their sacrifices. There are many fine collections of civil war soldiers manufactured by a multitude of manufacturers. A few will be outlined here.
William Britains
This company has a large selection of 1/32 scale miniature Civil War toy soldiers of exceptional quality. The selection includes Union and confederate civil war soldier figures, civil war landmark replicas, and military props such as cannon, limbers, etc. William Britain American Civil War Toy soldier are pewter, very finely detailed and are lead free. William Britains is an English company which began making toy soldiers in 1893 and has continued producing toy soldiers ever since.
Conte Collectables
Founder Richard Conte began this company in 1999 making 1/32 metal toy soldiers with a matte finish. The American Civil War toy soldiers in the collection are very well detailed and nicely finished. The sets include a number of Union and Confederate toy soldier replicas, Civil War leaders, and accessories to the soldiers sets. These are the same scale as William Britain sets and the two will complement each other.
Forward March
Forward March is owned by Prescott’s Military Miniatures which was begun in 1980 by the Walker Family. An ancestor of the family was Colnel William Prescott, who gave the command at Bunker Hill "Don’t fire until you see the whites of their eyes". Accordingly, all the toy soldiers produced by this company have the whites of their eyes painted in. Forward March was launched in 2000 with the goal of producing high end metal toy soldiers. The civil war toy soldiers in their offerings are 1/32 scale spin cast metals. The masters are designed by the best sculptors and are hand painted by the owner Richard Walker. The American Civil War toy soldier series’ are limited in edition and very highly sought after.
King and Country
From Hong Kong, King and Country manufactures American Civil War toy soldiers in 1/32 scale metal scenes and figures.
BMC
BMC manufactures inexpensive plastic Civil war toy soldiers which ideal as children’s toys and for use in school projects. The figures are 1/32 scale, and are molded in a single color. Union civil war soldiers are blue, Confederate civil war soldiers are gray.
American civil war toy soldiers are produced in great variety for both collectors and children. Union and Confederate soldiers are both available in quality fine enough to honor the sacrifices made by the soldiers of the American Civil War. Back to Toy Soldier
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Civil war toy soldiers replicate the honorable men who sacrificed much for their cause.
Plastic Toy Soldiers
The American Civil War was a tragic episode in our nation’s history. Great armies from the North and South clashed in bloody battles with thousands killed and wounded. Union and Confederate soldiers both believed in the rightness of their cause and many gave their lives in defense of it. It is estimated that there were Union casualties of 359,528 and Confederate casualties of 258,000 during that conflict, making it by far the bloodiest war in American History. The Civil War Soldier endured much, suffered, bled and died in great numbers.
Civil war toy soldiers replicate these honorable men, both Union and Confederate, and seek to commemorate their sacrifices. There are many fine collections of civil war soldiers manufactured by a multitude of manufacturers. A few will be outlined here.
William Britains
This company has a large selection of 1/32 scale miniature Civil War toy soldiers of exceptional quality. The selection includes Union and confederate civil war soldier figures, civil war landmark replicas, and military props such as cannon, limbers, etc. William Britain American Civil War Toy soldier are pewter, very finely detailed and are lead free. William Britains is an English company which began making toy soldiers in 1893 and has continued producing toy soldiers ever since.
Conte Collectables
Founder Richard Conte began this company in 1999 making 1/32 metal toy soldiers with a matte finish. The American Civil War toy soldiers in the collection are very well detailed and nicely finished. The sets include a number of Union and Confederate toy soldier replicas, Civil War leaders, and accessories to the soldiers sets. These are the same scale as William Britain sets and the two will complement each other.
Forward March
Forward March is owned by Prescott’s Military Miniatures which was begun in 1980 by the Walker Family. An ancestor of the family was Colnel William Prescott, who gave the command at Bunker Hill "Don’t fire until you see the whites of their eyes". Accordingly, all the toy soldiers produced by this company have the whites of their eyes painted in. Forward March was launched in 2000 with the goal of producing high end metal toy soldiers. The civil war toy soldiers in their offerings are 1/32 scale spin cast metals. The masters are designed by the best sculptors and are hand painted by the owner Richard Walker. The American Civil War toy soldier series’ are limited in edition and very highly sought after.
King and Country
From Hong Kong, King and Country manufactures American Civil War toy soldiers in 1/32 scale metal scenes and figures.
BMC
BMC manufactures inexpensive plastic Civil war toy soldiers which ideal as children’s toys and for use in school projects. The figures are 1/32 scale, and are molded in a single color. Union civil war soldiers are blue, Confederate civil war soldiers are gray.
American civil war toy soldiers are produced in great variety for both collectors and children. Union and Confederate soldiers are both available in quality fine enough to honor the sacrifices made by the soldiers of the American Civil War. Back to Toy Soldier
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Thursday, February 02, 2012
Jewelry Clasps
Jewelry Clasps - Barrel - Lobster Claw - Magnetic
Jewelry clasps are used to hold a necklace, bracelet or other jewelry project together. There are several different types of clasps used for this purpose. The clasps are usually made from metal and can be nickel-silver, silver, or gold plated.
Barrel clasps are tubular shaped and can be used for either bracelets or necklaces. They have a loop on each end to which the stringing material is tied securely. This is one of the easier clasps to open and close jewelry. A simple twisting action opens and closes them.
The toggle clasp consists of a jump ring and another "T" shaped component. The "T" slips through the jump ring, the arms of the "T" holding the jewelry together.
The hook and eye clasp is the strongest, easiest to fasten clasp in jewelry making. It consists of two parts, the figure 8 portions which is tied to one end of the necklace or bracelet, and the hook, which is tied to the other. The hook then loops through the other end of the figure 8, holding the jewelry securely together.
The lobster claw clasp is so named because the clasp sort of resembles a lobster claw. It holds necklaces and bracelets firmly together when used with a jump ring.
Snap clasps are best used for bracelets. They open and close, sort of like a hinge. A trigger releases them, and they will not open unless this trigger is depressed, securely holding the jewelry ends together.
Magnetic clasps are great for children, or adults who have difficulty using their fingers. This is a two part clasp, both of which have a strong magnet enclosed. The clasps hold together firmly, securing the jewelry together.
There is a wide variety of jewelry clasps available for just about any bead craft project. Barrel and lobster claw are the most popular but the other types may work equally as well.
Back to Bead Crafts
Jewelry clasps are used to hold a necklace, bracelet or other jewelry project together. There are several different types of clasps used for this purpose. The clasps are usually made from metal and can be nickel-silver, silver, or gold plated.
Barrel clasps are tubular shaped and can be used for either bracelets or necklaces. They have a loop on each end to which the stringing material is tied securely. This is one of the easier clasps to open and close jewelry. A simple twisting action opens and closes them.
The toggle clasp consists of a jump ring and another "T" shaped component. The "T" slips through the jump ring, the arms of the "T" holding the jewelry together.
The hook and eye clasp is the strongest, easiest to fasten clasp in jewelry making. It consists of two parts, the figure 8 portions which is tied to one end of the necklace or bracelet, and the hook, which is tied to the other. The hook then loops through the other end of the figure 8, holding the jewelry securely together.
The lobster claw clasp is so named because the clasp sort of resembles a lobster claw. It holds necklaces and bracelets firmly together when used with a jump ring.
Snap clasps are best used for bracelets. They open and close, sort of like a hinge. A trigger releases them, and they will not open unless this trigger is depressed, securely holding the jewelry ends together.
Magnetic clasps are great for children, or adults who have difficulty using their fingers. This is a two part clasp, both of which have a strong magnet enclosed. The clasps hold together firmly, securing the jewelry together.
There is a wide variety of jewelry clasps available for just about any bead craft project. Barrel and lobster claw are the most popular but the other types may work equally as well.
Back to Bead Crafts
Wednesday, February 01, 2012
Bead Types and Styles
Bead Types and Styles
Types And Styles Of Beads
Pony Beads
Good bead for childrens crafts, as the beads are large and the hole is big enough for larger cords suitable for small hands. Use for ‘beady babies’, bracelets, necklaces.
Seed Beads
Very small bead used for bead loom projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery. Glass seed beads are best for color and quality. A multitude of colors is available in this type of bead.
Rocailles
Similiar in size and shape to seed beads, rocailles are more ‘metallic’ in color. The beads impart a ‘shimmery’ quality to projects. Use for bead loam projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery.
E Beads
Also called Giant Seed Beads. E beads are about 3 - 4 times larger than seed beads and are similiar in shape and color. they can also be used for bead loom projects. Good bead type for earings, bracelets, sewing
crafts, and other jewelery projects.
Alphabet Beads
This type of bead has a letter of the alphabet, or a number on them. They are great for making personalized bead projects. The beads are availabe at TrainTown in individual letters, making
projects easy to assemble needed items.
Facet Beads
Round, multifaced beads are availble in a variety of sizes from 6mm to 25mm and a multitude of colors. Used for necklaces, ornaments, and other craft projects.
Paddle Wheel Beads
Paddle wheels are sometimes called windmill beads. Shaped like a paddle wheel, they are available in a variety of colors and sizes. Used mostly for craft projects and ornament.
There are many different types of beads available for a variety of uses.
Back to Bead Crafts
Types And Styles Of Beads
Pony Beads
Good bead for childrens crafts, as the beads are large and the hole is big enough for larger cords suitable for small hands. Use for ‘beady babies’, bracelets, necklaces.
Seed Beads
Very small bead used for bead loom projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery. Glass seed beads are best for color and quality. A multitude of colors is available in this type of bead.
Rocailles
Similiar in size and shape to seed beads, rocailles are more ‘metallic’ in color. The beads impart a ‘shimmery’ quality to projects. Use for bead loam projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery.
E Beads
Also called Giant Seed Beads. E beads are about 3 - 4 times larger than seed beads and are similiar in shape and color. they can also be used for bead loom projects. Good bead type for earings, bracelets, sewing
crafts, and other jewelery projects.
Alphabet Beads
This type of bead has a letter of the alphabet, or a number on them. They are great for making personalized bead projects. The beads are availabe at TrainTown in individual letters, making
projects easy to assemble needed items.
Facet Beads
Round, multifaced beads are availble in a variety of sizes from 6mm to 25mm and a multitude of colors. Used for necklaces, ornaments, and other craft projects.
Paddle Wheel Beads
Paddle wheels are sometimes called windmill beads. Shaped like a paddle wheel, they are available in a variety of colors and sizes. Used mostly for craft projects and ornament.
There are many different types of beads available for a variety of uses.
Back to Bead Crafts
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Beading With A Bead Weaving Loom
Add another dimension to your bead-working skills by learning to use a bead loom. American Indians use bead looms to create intricate bead designs for their clothing and for ceremonial purposes. Unique beadwork can be crafted by anyone to decorate clothing, belts, or jewelry.
Most bead-workers use seed beads for their designs on the bead loom. There is a myriad of colors available, either separately, or in economical multi-packs. Shimmery, jewel-like rocaailles may also be used to add a special touch to your design.
A beading needle is a necessity for this type of beadwork. Use a needle threader to thread the needle. Pick up the tiny seed beads with the tip of the needle and work into the design.
Strong, flexible thread is a requirement for the designs. Beginners should use white button and carpet thread, or beading thread. Clear nylon bead thread may also be used. the thread needs to be thin enough to pass several times through the hole in the bead.
The loom may be handmade if you wish. but since bead looms are generally quite inexpensive, it would be easier to purchase one to start with. If your hobby outgrows your loom, you can always build a bigger one to do larger designs.
Basic beading instructions are included with your loom. You can create your own designs after you get the hang of beading. It’s fun to personalize your own jewelry with the loom.
Also fun to make with seed beads and rocailles are Indian bead rings. these are made using bead wire instead of thread. Bracelets, fobs, brooches, and ornaments can be made using the same methods.
Bead flower necklaces or bracelets can also be made from seed beads, rocailles, and giant seed beads. Or use a combination of all three types for some strikingly original jewelry that you made yourself on your bead loom. Have fun!
Back to Bead Crafts
Most bead-workers use seed beads for their designs on the bead loom. There is a myriad of colors available, either separately, or in economical multi-packs. Shimmery, jewel-like rocaailles may also be used to add a special touch to your design.
A beading needle is a necessity for this type of beadwork. Use a needle threader to thread the needle. Pick up the tiny seed beads with the tip of the needle and work into the design.
Strong, flexible thread is a requirement for the designs. Beginners should use white button and carpet thread, or beading thread. Clear nylon bead thread may also be used. the thread needs to be thin enough to pass several times through the hole in the bead.
The loom may be handmade if you wish. but since bead looms are generally quite inexpensive, it would be easier to purchase one to start with. If your hobby outgrows your loom, you can always build a bigger one to do larger designs.
Basic beading instructions are included with your loom. You can create your own designs after you get the hang of beading. It’s fun to personalize your own jewelry with the loom.
Also fun to make with seed beads and rocailles are Indian bead rings. these are made using bead wire instead of thread. Bracelets, fobs, brooches, and ornaments can be made using the same methods.
Bead flower necklaces or bracelets can also be made from seed beads, rocailles, and giant seed beads. Or use a combination of all three types for some strikingly original jewelry that you made yourself on your bead loom. Have fun!
Back to Bead Crafts
Bead Loom and Bead Crafts
Bead crafts can be enjoyed by people of all ages. Small seed beads and rocailles can be worked into intricate bracelets, necklaces and other jewelery. Or can be used to create beautiful beadwork on clothing and leather goods. Kids also like to craft friendship bracelets and hairclips with them.
Larger pony beads are easy for small hands to craft into fun projects. Wood beads are also great craft projects for kids groups.
A bead loom is a device for creating intricate designs with seed beads. The beads are worked into a design using fine wire or thread to hold the design together. Neat designs can be made by a beginner. Skilled bead crafters can design and create quite exquisite patterns using these beads.
Back to Hobby List
Jewelry Clasps
Bead Types and Styles
Beading With A Bead Weaving Loom
Larger pony beads are easy for small hands to craft into fun projects. Wood beads are also great craft projects for kids groups.
A bead loom is a device for creating intricate designs with seed beads. The beads are worked into a design using fine wire or thread to hold the design together. Neat designs can be made by a beginner. Skilled bead crafters can design and create quite exquisite patterns using these beads.
Back to Hobby List
Jewelry Clasps
Bead Types and Styles
Beading With A Bead Weaving Loom
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Making Great Wine From Frozen Fruit Concentrates
If you have ever wanted to make your own wine but thought that making good wine was difficult, then think again. Making wine is easy, especially if you make it from frozen juice concentrates. You can make grape, apple, cranberry or any other kind of wine you like by just browsing a grocery store's freezer case.
Equipment you will need can be found in the kitchen. To make one gallon of wine you will need a plastic or glass gallon jug, two twelve ounce containers of frozen fruit concentrate, two pounds of sugar and a glass or plastic bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. In addition you will need some granulated yeast. Wine yeast, which may be sold in some specialty grocery stores works best, but you may use granulated bakers yeast if you wish.
First, place the frozen concentrate in the refrigerator to thaw out. It can be used frozen, but it is much easier to mix in the sugar syrup if it is thawed out.
Next you will want to get the yeast started. For one gallon, use one level teaspoon of the granulated yeast. Whatever yeast is left in the packet may be sealed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator until needed for the next batch of wine you make. Put two teaspoons of sugar in a glass of warm water and stir until it is dissolved. Then dump the yeast into the warm sugar water and stir well. Place this in a warm location until it starts to froth. This can take anywhere from a couple of hours to several hours, depending upon the temperature of the room and the freshness of the yeast.
After the yeast is started you may make the sugar into syrup for use in the wine. To make the syrup boil the two pounds of sugar in one half gallon of water, stirring often to keep the sugar from scorching. The sugar solution will clear when it is done. Take the syrup off the stove, cover and set aside until it is cool. Usually this will take a couple of hours, so by the time the starter is ready, the sugar syrup will also be cool enough to use.
Now you are ready to make the wine. In a one and a half gallon to two gallon bowl, pour the fruit concentrate. Now add the sugar syrup. Then add the fermenting wine yeast. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and leave this in a warm place for a few days. After a few hours the wine will begin to ferment. This ferment may be quite vigorous, so you will need to leave the wine in the bowl a few days so it doesn't overflow.
Once the ferment slows down, thoroughly clean a plastic or glass gallon jug. Using a plastic or glass kitchen funnel, pour the fermenting wine into the jug. Top up with cool tap water until the jar is a couple of inches from the top. Place a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar and secure with a rubber band. Place this in a cool, dark room. The ideal temperature is sixty to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The ferment will take approximately two months.
When the ferment is finished, siphon the finished wine into a second gallon jar using plastic tubing which is suitable for food use, being careful to not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the jug. The wine is now ready to drink, but will benefit from aging for several months to a year.
Good wine may be made in this way from frozen fruit concentrates quite easily and quickly. While not gourmet wine, it will be a delightful vin ordinaire which is quite economical to make. After you master it, you may experiment with different ingredients, yeasts and juices to make a wine more suitable to your tastes.
Back to Home Wine Making © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Equipment you will need can be found in the kitchen. To make one gallon of wine you will need a plastic or glass gallon jug, two twelve ounce containers of frozen fruit concentrate, two pounds of sugar and a glass or plastic bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. In addition you will need some granulated yeast. Wine yeast, which may be sold in some specialty grocery stores works best, but you may use granulated bakers yeast if you wish.
First, place the frozen concentrate in the refrigerator to thaw out. It can be used frozen, but it is much easier to mix in the sugar syrup if it is thawed out.
Next you will want to get the yeast started. For one gallon, use one level teaspoon of the granulated yeast. Whatever yeast is left in the packet may be sealed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator until needed for the next batch of wine you make. Put two teaspoons of sugar in a glass of warm water and stir until it is dissolved. Then dump the yeast into the warm sugar water and stir well. Place this in a warm location until it starts to froth. This can take anywhere from a couple of hours to several hours, depending upon the temperature of the room and the freshness of the yeast.
After the yeast is started you may make the sugar into syrup for use in the wine. To make the syrup boil the two pounds of sugar in one half gallon of water, stirring often to keep the sugar from scorching. The sugar solution will clear when it is done. Take the syrup off the stove, cover and set aside until it is cool. Usually this will take a couple of hours, so by the time the starter is ready, the sugar syrup will also be cool enough to use.
Now you are ready to make the wine. In a one and a half gallon to two gallon bowl, pour the fruit concentrate. Now add the sugar syrup. Then add the fermenting wine yeast. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and leave this in a warm place for a few days. After a few hours the wine will begin to ferment. This ferment may be quite vigorous, so you will need to leave the wine in the bowl a few days so it doesn't overflow.
Once the ferment slows down, thoroughly clean a plastic or glass gallon jug. Using a plastic or glass kitchen funnel, pour the fermenting wine into the jug. Top up with cool tap water until the jar is a couple of inches from the top. Place a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar and secure with a rubber band. Place this in a cool, dark room. The ideal temperature is sixty to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The ferment will take approximately two months.
When the ferment is finished, siphon the finished wine into a second gallon jar using plastic tubing which is suitable for food use, being careful to not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the jug. The wine is now ready to drink, but will benefit from aging for several months to a year.
Good wine may be made in this way from frozen fruit concentrates quite easily and quickly. While not gourmet wine, it will be a delightful vin ordinaire which is quite economical to make. After you master it, you may experiment with different ingredients, yeasts and juices to make a wine more suitable to your tastes.
Back to Home Wine Making © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Thursday, October 22, 2009
History of The Kite - Kites At War
The kite was used as a military tool very early in its history. The Chinese were the inventors of the kite and were the first to use the kite for warfare. Han Hsin of the Han Dynasty used a kite to allow him to evade an enemy city's defenses. He needed to build a tunnel under the city's walls, but required a tool to help him determine how far to dig the tunnel. He had a kite flown over the city, marked the line and pulled the kite in. Engineers then began to dig the tunnel. When they reached the length determined by the kite string, they started ascending. The tunnel entered the city in the courtyard. His troops were able to enter the city and captured it. The Chinese also used kites to lift fireworks over enemy troops, terrifying and dispersing them. Kites of different shapes and sizes were also flown to deliver signals to soldiers in the field.
From China, kite technology spread to other Asian nations. Thailand made good use of the kite in many ways, including the art of war. King Petraja used kites to deliver what many feel was the first aerial bombing in history. A subject principality, Nakhon Ratchasima, known also as Korat, rebelled against his rule. King Petraja had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites flying over the rebel fortifications. These were then ignited and the explosions caused enough dismay and confusion among the rebels that they surrendered.
During the Crimean War an interesting concept using kites were tried. Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane came up with the idea of using kites to tow torpedoes into Russian ships. He set up some practice runs which were successful. But the idea was never implemented due to the fact that enemy ships were not always positioned correctly in relation to the prevailing wind to allow the kites to hit their targets.
World War I saw several uses for kites, mostly as observational devices. The French deployed a kite corps which consisted of a car, trailer and a motor driven winch. Most of the combatant armies used kites for observation early in the war. The arrival of the airplane caused these divisions to become obsolete and they were disbanded. The Germans used a specially designed box kite system on their submarines. The fact that an observer lifted to an altitude of 400 feet could see almost 250 miles over open ocean gave the submarines a bit of an advantage because they could see their enemies before being themselves detected.
A man named Harry Sauls designed a kite he called the barrage kite to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite was found useful in protecting merchant ships during World War II. A strong wire was used as the kite line and flown from strategic places on the ships. The wire was invisible to airplanes and strong enough to cut off a wing or destroy a propeller. The kites played a deterrent role in holding off enemy dive bomber attacks against the ships.
During World War II gunners on aircraft carriers used clouds for target practice. This practice did not provide a very realistic simulation of an attacking aircraft. Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island. Observing the limitations of the system, he decided to come up with a better target. He designed a kite for this purpose and challenged the gunnery crews to hit it with gunfire. To their chagrin, the kite proved a difficult target. His commanding officer observed this and ordered Garber to build more kites. He managed to come up with kites which mimicked the movements of an attacking aircraft, and the gunnery crew’s accuracy increased immensely. This helped the crews to destroy attacking aircraft at a much higher rate.
A box kite was also a key component of a device called the Gibson Girl during this war also. The apparatus consisted of a kite, antennae and hand crank radio. The Gibson Girl was standard issue on United States and British bombers. An airman shot down and adrift on the sea could deploy the kite with the antennae attached, and use the hand crank radio to signal his position. The Gibson Girl saw action as late as the Vietnam War.
Kites were used extensively during the course of history for many different military uses. From their inception by the Chinese to World War II and as late as the Vietnam War, kites have had their use as weapons, observational tools and signal devices.
Back To All About Kites
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
From China, kite technology spread to other Asian nations. Thailand made good use of the kite in many ways, including the art of war. King Petraja used kites to deliver what many feel was the first aerial bombing in history. A subject principality, Nakhon Ratchasima, known also as Korat, rebelled against his rule. King Petraja had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites flying over the rebel fortifications. These were then ignited and the explosions caused enough dismay and confusion among the rebels that they surrendered.
During the Crimean War an interesting concept using kites were tried. Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane came up with the idea of using kites to tow torpedoes into Russian ships. He set up some practice runs which were successful. But the idea was never implemented due to the fact that enemy ships were not always positioned correctly in relation to the prevailing wind to allow the kites to hit their targets.
World War I saw several uses for kites, mostly as observational devices. The French deployed a kite corps which consisted of a car, trailer and a motor driven winch. Most of the combatant armies used kites for observation early in the war. The arrival of the airplane caused these divisions to become obsolete and they were disbanded. The Germans used a specially designed box kite system on their submarines. The fact that an observer lifted to an altitude of 400 feet could see almost 250 miles over open ocean gave the submarines a bit of an advantage because they could see their enemies before being themselves detected.
A man named Harry Sauls designed a kite he called the barrage kite to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite was found useful in protecting merchant ships during World War II. A strong wire was used as the kite line and flown from strategic places on the ships. The wire was invisible to airplanes and strong enough to cut off a wing or destroy a propeller. The kites played a deterrent role in holding off enemy dive bomber attacks against the ships.
During World War II gunners on aircraft carriers used clouds for target practice. This practice did not provide a very realistic simulation of an attacking aircraft. Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island. Observing the limitations of the system, he decided to come up with a better target. He designed a kite for this purpose and challenged the gunnery crews to hit it with gunfire. To their chagrin, the kite proved a difficult target. His commanding officer observed this and ordered Garber to build more kites. He managed to come up with kites which mimicked the movements of an attacking aircraft, and the gunnery crew’s accuracy increased immensely. This helped the crews to destroy attacking aircraft at a much higher rate.
A box kite was also a key component of a device called the Gibson Girl during this war also. The apparatus consisted of a kite, antennae and hand crank radio. The Gibson Girl was standard issue on United States and British bombers. An airman shot down and adrift on the sea could deploy the kite with the antennae attached, and use the hand crank radio to signal his position. The Gibson Girl saw action as late as the Vietnam War.
Kites were used extensively during the course of history for many different military uses. From their inception by the Chinese to World War II and as late as the Vietnam War, kites have had their use as weapons, observational tools and signal devices.
Back To All About Kites
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
History Of Kites In Aviation
Kites have been very instrumental in the history of aviation. Most of the early aviators used kites to develop their theories before actually taking flight. The first humans to gain the distinction of flying among the birds did so with the aid of kites.
During the kite’s very early history in China, and later Japan, man carrying kites were built. There are many stories in the lore of both these countries of kites bearing men aloft. These kites were used primarily for military purposes as observational tools. Marco Polo (1254 - 1324), after his wanderings in China, documented the many uses for kites there.
The first scientist to use kites to study aviation was a Franciscan friar named Roger Bacon (1214?-1294). History remembers Roger Bacon for his scientific studies in many different fields including mathematics, optics, and astronomy. Bacon was the Western World's first true scientist, preceeding the emergence of widespread scientific study in Europe by about 500 years. During his experiments with kites, he came to the conclusion that if a craft were properly constructed, it could be supported by air in the same fashion that water supports a boat.
It wasn't until Sir George Cayley (1773-1857), almost 500 years later, that serious work was again done with kites in the field of aviation. Cayley, because of his work, is often called the "Father of Aviation." A native of Scarbourgh, England, this English baronet was an inventor who created the basic design of the airplanes flown today. Many of Cayley's designs for aircraft were developed during the ten year period from 1799 through 1809. He designed and built an aircraft which flew like a kite which had a movable tail and could be maneuvered.
Otto Lilienthal, a German engineer, dominated aviation history in the late 1800's. He is known mostly for his work with gliders, but his early experiments in the 1870's were primarily with kites. The lessons he learned from the kites he built and flew led directly to the many gliders he designed and flew. Over 2000 times he took to the air in flight. One fatal day his glider stalled at an altitude of around fifty feet. The glider crashed and he severed his spine. He died the next day.
Orville and Wilbur Wright represent the culmination of this long, historic process. They studied Lilienthal's designs and decided to base their initial designs on his. Using a biplane box kite they designed in 1899, they tested their theories on aircraft control. The kite framework of this kite was hinged, allowing it to twist. It was controlled from the ground, using four lines, one tied to each corner of the frame. They learned to control the kite using this system, and could make it bank, dive and climb.
The following year they constructed a glider, using the kite as a guide. This glider had enough lifting capacity to lift a man, but they decided fly it like a kite at first, using the same ground control system they had devised for the kite. Their experiments with this craft led to the design, construction, and eventual success with the flight of the Wright Flyer at Kitty Hawk in 1903.
Kites have had an instrumental role in the rise of the science of aviation. From the Chinese in the fifth century BC to the Wright Brothers in 1903, the kite has made its mark in the history of flight.
Back To All About Kites Back to Hobby List
During the kite’s very early history in China, and later Japan, man carrying kites were built. There are many stories in the lore of both these countries of kites bearing men aloft. These kites were used primarily for military purposes as observational tools. Marco Polo (1254 - 1324), after his wanderings in China, documented the many uses for kites there.
The first scientist to use kites to study aviation was a Franciscan friar named Roger Bacon (1214?-1294). History remembers Roger Bacon for his scientific studies in many different fields including mathematics, optics, and astronomy. Bacon was the Western World's first true scientist, preceeding the emergence of widespread scientific study in Europe by about 500 years. During his experiments with kites, he came to the conclusion that if a craft were properly constructed, it could be supported by air in the same fashion that water supports a boat.
It wasn't until Sir George Cayley (1773-1857), almost 500 years later, that serious work was again done with kites in the field of aviation. Cayley, because of his work, is often called the "Father of Aviation." A native of Scarbourgh, England, this English baronet was an inventor who created the basic design of the airplanes flown today. Many of Cayley's designs for aircraft were developed during the ten year period from 1799 through 1809. He designed and built an aircraft which flew like a kite which had a movable tail and could be maneuvered.
Otto Lilienthal, a German engineer, dominated aviation history in the late 1800's. He is known mostly for his work with gliders, but his early experiments in the 1870's were primarily with kites. The lessons he learned from the kites he built and flew led directly to the many gliders he designed and flew. Over 2000 times he took to the air in flight. One fatal day his glider stalled at an altitude of around fifty feet. The glider crashed and he severed his spine. He died the next day.
Orville and Wilbur Wright represent the culmination of this long, historic process. They studied Lilienthal's designs and decided to base their initial designs on his. Using a biplane box kite they designed in 1899, they tested their theories on aircraft control. The kite framework of this kite was hinged, allowing it to twist. It was controlled from the ground, using four lines, one tied to each corner of the frame. They learned to control the kite using this system, and could make it bank, dive and climb.
The following year they constructed a glider, using the kite as a guide. This glider had enough lifting capacity to lift a man, but they decided fly it like a kite at first, using the same ground control system they had devised for the kite. Their experiments with this craft led to the design, construction, and eventual success with the flight of the Wright Flyer at Kitty Hawk in 1903.
Kites have had an instrumental role in the rise of the science of aviation. From the Chinese in the fifth century BC to the Wright Brothers in 1903, the kite has made its mark in the history of flight.
Back To All About Kites Back to Hobby List
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Who Invented Kites and Where Were They Invented?
Who invented the kite? And when were they invented? For the answer to those questions we have to dig far back in history, because people have been flying kites for thousands of years. A kite floating far above the earth seems to be such a simple thing. But if you stop to ponder its ancient lineage, the kite appears much more majestic.
Both China and Malaysia can legitimately claim honors as the kite's birthplace. There is evidence of kite flying as far back as the sixth century BC. China has written records of kite flying dating from 559 BC. Kites have been a part of Malaysian culture for millennia. It is an entirely credible possibility that kites were invented independently in both countries.
In China two philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are generally given credit for having invented the kite. These two brilliant men were contemporaries, and they had access to all the materials necessary for successful kite building. The silk making process by this time had been perfected. Silk fabric and thread have the properties of being strong, light in weight and impervious to moisture. These qualities make silk an ideal material for both the sail and the kite line. Bamboo grows abundantly in China, and is a superlative framework component. Mozi was a trained engineer who had wide experience constructing bird models and weapons of war. Lu Pan was a skilled carpenter who designed and built many things from wood, including model birds. One of his bird models was reputed to have been held aloft by compliant winds for three consecutive days.
Documentation of kite flying in Malaysia is scanty, but there is a very long tradition of it there. Materials available to the Malaysians were large tree leaves and bamboo. It is easy to imagine that leaves blowing in the wind created the inspiration for the invention of the first kite. Leaf kites are still flown in Malaysia, some of them are very elaborately designed.
So when were kite invented and who invented them? The answer to that question may never be definitely known, but China and Malaysia are the two best candidates for where, and Mozi and Lu Pan seem to have the best resumes to qualify for who invented them. But we do know that kite flying originated in one of these two countries and from there spread to the rest of the world.
Back To All About Kites
Both China and Malaysia can legitimately claim honors as the kite's birthplace. There is evidence of kite flying as far back as the sixth century BC. China has written records of kite flying dating from 559 BC. Kites have been a part of Malaysian culture for millennia. It is an entirely credible possibility that kites were invented independently in both countries.
In China two philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are generally given credit for having invented the kite. These two brilliant men were contemporaries, and they had access to all the materials necessary for successful kite building. The silk making process by this time had been perfected. Silk fabric and thread have the properties of being strong, light in weight and impervious to moisture. These qualities make silk an ideal material for both the sail and the kite line. Bamboo grows abundantly in China, and is a superlative framework component. Mozi was a trained engineer who had wide experience constructing bird models and weapons of war. Lu Pan was a skilled carpenter who designed and built many things from wood, including model birds. One of his bird models was reputed to have been held aloft by compliant winds for three consecutive days.
Documentation of kite flying in Malaysia is scanty, but there is a very long tradition of it there. Materials available to the Malaysians were large tree leaves and bamboo. It is easy to imagine that leaves blowing in the wind created the inspiration for the invention of the first kite. Leaf kites are still flown in Malaysia, some of them are very elaborately designed.
So when were kite invented and who invented them? The answer to that question may never be definitely known, but China and Malaysia are the two best candidates for where, and Mozi and Lu Pan seem to have the best resumes to qualify for who invented them. But we do know that kite flying originated in one of these two countries and from there spread to the rest of the world.
Back To All About Kites
Friday, November 14, 2008
HO Scale Electric Model Toy Trains
HO scale is the most popular size of electric model train available to hobbyists. And for good reason. At 1/87 scale it is small enough to pack a lot of detail into a small amount of space. A four by eight foot sheet of plywood can contain a lot of different scenes for the train to roll through. This popularity has produced an amazing amount of track, figures, buildings and other accessories to be produced for the HO scale train. Indeed, there are more accessories for HO electric model trains than there is for all the other scales combined. Add to this the sheer fun of layout building and then watching as the little electric model toy train rolls along through towns, farms, forests and parks that you, the builder, have created. In HO your imagination is the only limit when it comes to modeling a train layout. You can model any era in time and just about any type of terrain in HO scale. The electric model train can be a logging operation, industrial spur, passenger line, coal train, grain transporter, or any one of the hundreds of uses the modern train has come to be employed at. HO electric model trains are versitle and fun. You can relive the early days of railroading with the historical train sets from Bachman or build a circus with a circus train from IHC. The articles of this website will endeavor to supply you with the information you need to properly choose the train which suits your needs. You will find links to various retailer who are selling the HO scale electric model train products you desire. Happy railroading! HO Scale Train Landscape Accessory Index
HO Scale Buildings and Structures
HO Scale Train Track Back to Electric Toy Trains
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
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Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Guillow Easy Build-By-Number Balsa Model Airplane Kits
Guillow Easy Build-By-Number rubber band powered balsa wood airplane model kits are fun to build and fly! Building and flying balsa wood model airplanes is a fascinating and fun hobby. The wood model airplanes may be flown or simply hung for display. Many enjoy leaving the paper covering off and displaying the wood framework of the plane hung from a ceiling. The wood frame is beautiful with just a coating of sealer to protect it.
The plane may be flown with the rubber band supplied, or powered with a gas or electric motor. The balsa model airplane kit is designed as a free flight model. This means that the plane is powered up and released and the plane goes where it will. There is not enough room inside most of these airplanes to m mount the servos and other things needed for radio controlled flight.
Back To Balsa Wood Airplanes
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Thursday, September 25, 2008
Beer Making Supplies
Most of the supplies for making beer can be found in the average kitchen, though the beer making process is easier if you collect some of the more specialized accessories you will need. A good beer making kit will have most of the supplies needed for making beer. You will need a boiler which will hold at least one gallon of water. A fermenting container is needed which is large enough to hold the quantity of beer being made. Most malt extracts will produce two gallons of beer, so the fermenting vessel is needed. Some of the kits have fermenting vessels which have a spigot. This feature definitely makes bottling easier as it eliminates the need for the finicky, messy siphon hose.
You will need bottles to put the beer in when the primary fermentation is complete. Plastic soda bottles which have been thoroughly cleaned and sanitized are ideal for this purpose. They will handle the pressure which builds up during the secondary fermentation, are commonly available and reusable. That's it, for basic beer making that is all the supplies you will need. As you go along, you may want to add more stuff, like a bottling hydrometer, nicer bottles, etc. But these supplies will get you started making beer.
© THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts 2012
Back to Home Beer Making
Step by Step Beer Making Process
Beer Making Step 1 - Start the yeast in a glass of warm water which has had two teaspoons of sugar dissolved in it.
Beer Making Step 2 - Sterilize your equipment with a good sterilizing agent.
Beer Making Step 3 - After the yeast is fermenting, place the can of malt extract in a bowl of warm water to soften it.
Beer Making Step 4 - Boil one gallon of water.
Beer Making Step 5 - Pour in the booster and up to two pounds of sugar and stir until dissolved.
Beer Making Step 6 - Pour in the malt extract, stir until dissolved.
Beer Making Step 7 - If the malt extract is not already hopped, or you want more hops, now is the time to add them. Boil the mix with the hops for at least one half hour.
Beer Making Step 8 - Allow the wort to cool, then pour it into the fermenting container. Top up with water and add the yeast starter mix.
Beer Making Step 9 - Put the fermenting vat in a cool area, between sixty and seventy degrees. Fermentation should take between seven and ten days.
Beer Making Step 10 - After the beer has cleared somewhat and there are no more floating colonies of yeast on top, it is time to bottle the beer. Place one teaspoon of sugar in a twelve ounce PET bottle (plastic soft drink) after sterilizing it. Siphon the beer in until the beer is one inch from the top. Screw on the top and place the bottle in a cool, dark area. Secondary fermentation should take about seven to ten days. Squeeze the sides of the bottle. It will be very hard to press in the bottles sides when fermentation is complete.
Beer Making Step 11 - When the secondary fermentation is complete, refrigerate the beer, then uncap it and pour slowly into a glass. Don't pour the last half inch or so of the beer or you will spoil the effect of the clear, bubbling beer. The sediment at the bottom will also impart a yeasty taste to the beer. There is nothing wrong with the sediment, indeed it is quite nutritious, so you may drink it. Some places serve the sediment with lemon.
This step by step outline is for a beer making kit made by Mr. Beer. Other kits or recipes may use a slightly different step progression, but this is the main sequence used.
© THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts 2011
Home Beer Making
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Beer Making Process
Modern brewing involves many steps in the transformation of grain, hops, yeast, and water into the sparkling, invigorating beverage we call beer. The following is a greatly simplified outline of the process a commercial brewing company uses to make beer.
Malting is the first step in the process of making beer. This involves soaking the harvested grain in water and allowing germination to begin. This, by a complicated chemical process, creates sugar, a necessary component to fermentation.
The partly germinated grain is now kilned, or heat dried, and it is called malt at this stage. Different kilning methods will produce different types of beer.
Milling is next - the malt is re-mixed with water to complete the conversion of starches in the grain to sugar, then the grain is milled to create the proper consistency to the malt, now termed grist.
The grist is subsequently mashed. This involves re-mixing with water and boiling it in a series of steps. Finally the wort is separated from the grain residue by a series of spinning and filtering steps
Next the wort is transferred to a copper vat, hops are added, and the mixture is boiled for a period of time. After boiling, the wort is subjected to a process by which the spent hops and other residues are removed.
The wort is transferred to a fermenting vessel and yeast is added. The wort should be about ten percent sugars in solution at this point. The fermentation process begins now, and the wort will be transformed into beer by the yeast cells.
Once fermentation has completed, a secondary fermentation is induced to rid the beer of impurities and improve the flavor. This step, in the ‘homebrew’ process, is completed in the bottle to add carbonation to the beer. The carbonation gives the beer a fresh flavor, and helps the beer keep longer. The home beer making process is almost complete.
Maturation of the completed beer follows. The beer is stored cold for a period of time, allowing the flavor to mellow and certain chemical processes to complete. Once this is complete, commercial breweries filter the beer and package it for sale. Draft beer is placed in metal casks and sent out to market in refrigerated trucks. Bottled and canned beer are pasteurized after bottling and sold.
© THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts 2011
Home Beer Making
Beer Making Kits
The easiest way to start making is to purchase a beer making kit. The kit will contain all the necessary items needed to brew your first batch of beer, except, of course, the water.
The first batch is ready in 14 days; the second batch can start just seven days after the first batch, allowing continuos production of beer. Alcohol content is equivalent to commercial brews, and it is produced by the natural fermentation of the yeast. Since the beer naturally ferments in the bottle, no CO2 cartridges are needed to carbonate the beer.
You can save up to 75% off the cost of commercial beers, and the equipment is all reusable.
You need only buy refill packs of beer mix, and this is available in a large variety of
different types of beer.
Home Beer Making © 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Home Beer Making
Making beer at home was illegal in the United States before 1978. In November of that year, President Jimmy Carter signed the bill which allowed the brewing of up to 200 gallons of beer at home. Since that time interest in the craft of home brewing has been increasing steadily and many home owners have taken up the craft. High quality ingredients are available to the home brewer, and excellent craft beers can be made in the home with the investment of just a little time.
Making a batch of beer in the home can take as little as two to three weeks from the time the brew is made until the bottles are carbonized and ready to drink. Modern equipment and beer making kits have greatly simplified the home brewing process, creating a fun hobby for many people. Home brewed beer can be cheaper than commercially brewed beer, but the real reward in brewing beer at home is the ability to customize your brew to your own taste. Fruits, herbs and other ingredients may be added to the wort, imparting different tastes to the finished brew. History of Beer
Beer Making Process
Wine and Beer Making - The Yeast
Hydrometer – For Wine or Beer Making
Beer Making Supplies
Preparing Wine Yeast - The Starter
Step by Step Beer Making Process
The Fermentation Lock
Beer Making Kits
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© THC Hobby Hobnob 2012
Friday, September 05, 2008
Thomas the Tank Engine Music
Reverand Awdry's timeless stories have spawned many songs and music videos about Thomas the Tank Engine and his friends. CD's and MP3 downloads can be played in the car on long trips, at the beach or wherever young Thomas fans want to listen.
Sheet music is also available so young musicians can learn to play their favorite songs, as well as the lyrics to all their favorites so they can sing along.
Live videos can also be played online for entertainment and a much more intensive Thomas the Tank Engine Experience.
Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System
© 2011 Hobby Hobnob
Sheet music is also available so young musicians can learn to play their favorite songs, as well as the lyrics to all their favorites so they can sing along.
Live videos can also be played online for entertainment and a much more intensive Thomas the Tank Engine Experience.
Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System
© 2011 Hobby Hobnob
Thomas theTank Games
The Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends stories have inspired more than toys. There are also many different games to play featuring Thomas on the Isle of Sodor. Educational and fun games allow children to learn while playing offer a double benefit.
Games include Thomas the Tank Engine board games, card games, dominoes, and many more. Great fun for the entire family with these great Thomas Games.
Thomas the Tank engine games can also be plated online. These interactive games include railway games, puzzles and matching games.
Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System
© 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Games include Thomas the Tank Engine board games, card games, dominoes, and many more. Great fun for the entire family with these great Thomas Games.
Thomas the Tank engine games can also be plated online. These interactive games include railway games, puzzles and matching games.
Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System
© 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Thomas the Tank Engine Sets
Thomas the Tank Engine sets are popular toys for pre-schoolers, offering a great way to get into the Thomas the Tank stories first hand. There are several different types of sets on the market, and choosing one can be difficult.
The most popular and extensive line is the Wooden Railway series. This series has been around for a number of years. The wooden track is two sided, so it can't be put together wrong. The wooden rolling stock has durable plastic wheels and magnetic couplers. The play value on this series is extremely high.
A newcomer to the Thomas the Tank Engine scene is Lego. In true Lego style, the large pieces of plastic track snap together easily and the train cars roll effortlessly around the track.
Tomy manufactures a pretty large line of plastic Thomas the Tank Engine train sets. The plastic blue track is double sided, hooks together easily. The battery powered engines roll easily along the track. The track is not compatible with the Wooden Railway, but the cars will roll on the track. There are sets, track packs and vehicles available for expansion.
Electric Thomas the Tank Engine sets are led by Bachman's Thomas and Friends series. These HO scale electric train sets includes Bachman's EZ Track which can be set up virtually anywhere because the track bed is bonded to the track. The locomotives roll along, eyes rolling from side to side as they scan the countryside around them. This fairly extensive line runs on standard HO track, so it can be incorporated into any HO layour, and there is a lot of different components to the EZ Track system, so any set can be easily expanded.
Lionel also manufactures an O Gauge Thomas the Tank Engine set which will run on its three rail system. The sets include Lionel's Fast Track, which snaps together easily and can be run on carpets, floors or tables. The sets are easily expandable. Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System © 2011 Hobby Hobnob
The most popular and extensive line is the Wooden Railway series. This series has been around for a number of years. The wooden track is two sided, so it can't be put together wrong. The wooden rolling stock has durable plastic wheels and magnetic couplers. The play value on this series is extremely high.
A newcomer to the Thomas the Tank Engine scene is Lego. In true Lego style, the large pieces of plastic track snap together easily and the train cars roll effortlessly around the track.
Tomy manufactures a pretty large line of plastic Thomas the Tank Engine train sets. The plastic blue track is double sided, hooks together easily. The battery powered engines roll easily along the track. The track is not compatible with the Wooden Railway, but the cars will roll on the track. There are sets, track packs and vehicles available for expansion.
Electric Thomas the Tank Engine sets are led by Bachman's Thomas and Friends series. These HO scale electric train sets includes Bachman's EZ Track which can be set up virtually anywhere because the track bed is bonded to the track. The locomotives roll along, eyes rolling from side to side as they scan the countryside around them. This fairly extensive line runs on standard HO track, so it can be incorporated into any HO layour, and there is a lot of different components to the EZ Track system, so any set can be easily expanded.
Lionel also manufactures an O Gauge Thomas the Tank Engine set which will run on its three rail system. The sets include Lionel's Fast Track, which snaps together easily and can be run on carpets, floors or tables. The sets are easily expandable. Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System © 2011 Hobby Hobnob
Day Out With Thomas On The Strasburg Railroad
Day out with Thomas
Strasburg, Pennsylvania is located in Amish country in Lancaster County. The rail line is an old one, established in 1832. The East Strasburg Station is located near the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania which features the rich railroad history of the area.
The rail line has a full size, operating Thomas the Tank Engine which the whole family can ride. Click the link for full operating schedule and special events of the Day out with Thomas.
Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System
© 2011 Hobby Hobnob
The rail line has a full size, operating Thomas the Tank Engine which the whole family can ride. Click the link for full operating schedule and special events of the Day out with Thomas.
Back to Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System
© 2011 Hobby Hobnob
Tuesday, September 02, 2008
Thomas The Tank Engine Toy Train
Thomas the Tank Engine is the creation of the Reverend Wilbert Awdry who carved a wooden train engine for his son when he was small, then wove a myriad of stories about the engine to entertain the young boy. Reverend Awdry wrote the stories down, and eventually they were published. The stories have become quite popular and have led to all sorts of Thomas the Tank Engine toys, videos, games, clothing and much more.
Thomas The Tank Engine was the subject of a very popular television show which has entertained millions of children over the years, and he was even the star of a full length movie. Thomas has many friends, characters like Toby, Henrietta, Gordon and Duncan. Thomas and his friends have brought a lot of joy to many children since his inception and is now remembered fondly by many adults as the think back on the television show and the toys they played with as children.
But toys and television shows are only a part of the picture. A full size Thomas the Tank Engine makes its rounds, providing rides and opportunities for children to have their photos taken with Thomas. The destinations for Thomas changes constantly, as the Thomas chugs around the countryside looking for new places to hang out.
The Thomas the Tank Engine experience is one of the joys of childhood, the games, toys, videos creating a lifetime of memories. The Reverend Awdry probably never guessed the extent of his contribution to childhood when he composed the first story for his son many years ago.
Thomas the Tank Engine Music
A Short History Of Thomas The Tank Engine Train Thomas the Tank Engine Sets
Day out with Thomas
Thomas the Tank Games
Back to Electric Toy Trains
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Thomas The Tank Engine was the subject of a very popular television show which has entertained millions of children over the years, and he was even the star of a full length movie. Thomas has many friends, characters like Toby, Henrietta, Gordon and Duncan. Thomas and his friends have brought a lot of joy to many children since his inception and is now remembered fondly by many adults as the think back on the television show and the toys they played with as children.
But toys and television shows are only a part of the picture. A full size Thomas the Tank Engine makes its rounds, providing rides and opportunities for children to have their photos taken with Thomas. The destinations for Thomas changes constantly, as the Thomas chugs around the countryside looking for new places to hang out.
The Thomas the Tank Engine experience is one of the joys of childhood, the games, toys, videos creating a lifetime of memories. The Reverend Awdry probably never guessed the extent of his contribution to childhood when he composed the first story for his son many years ago.
Thomas the Tank Engine Music
A Short History Of Thomas The Tank Engine Train Thomas the Tank Engine Sets
Day out with Thomas
Thomas the Tank Games
Back to Electric Toy Trains
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob
Monday, August 18, 2008
A Short History of the Coin We Call the Nickel
The nickel, as we know, is worth five cents, which is half the value of a dime. This is what the coin that preceeded the nickel was called, the half disme. The "s" is silent, so the word is pronounced "dime". The half dime was made of silver and was very small, making it hard for people to use and very easy to loose. Today a nickel isn't worth much, but in the early 1800's, a nickel might represent a day's work.
So in 1866 the United States Mint began issuing nickels with a composition of 75% copper and 35% nickel. The nickels were the same size as the coin we are familiar with today, but the design was much different. The obverse featured the United States shield, the reverse a large "5" surrounded by thirteen stars which represented the original thirteen states. These coins, because of the design, proved very hard to strike. So this series of nickles was discontinued in 1883.
The Liberty, or "V", nickle began production in 1883 and continued until 1913. The obverse pictured a Liberty head surrounded by thirteen stars. The reverse had a large Roman Numeral "V". The first coins minted in this series did not have the word "Cents" on them. This nickel was the same size and design as the five dollar gold piece in use at the time. So some enterprising persons plated the coins gold, then passed them off as gold pieces. The Mint soon added the word "Cents" to stop this practice.
In 1913 the Liberty Head Nickel was replaced by the Buffalo Nickel. This coin has a buffalo on the reverse, hence the name. It also is called the Indian head nickel because of the American Indian bust shown on the obverse. This coin was minted until 1938 when it was superseded by the currently used Jefferson Nickel.
© 2012 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Back to Coin Collecting
So in 1866 the United States Mint began issuing nickels with a composition of 75% copper and 35% nickel. The nickels were the same size as the coin we are familiar with today, but the design was much different. The obverse featured the United States shield, the reverse a large "5" surrounded by thirteen stars which represented the original thirteen states. These coins, because of the design, proved very hard to strike. So this series of nickles was discontinued in 1883.
The Liberty, or "V", nickle began production in 1883 and continued until 1913. The obverse pictured a Liberty head surrounded by thirteen stars. The reverse had a large Roman Numeral "V". The first coins minted in this series did not have the word "Cents" on them. This nickel was the same size and design as the five dollar gold piece in use at the time. So some enterprising persons plated the coins gold, then passed them off as gold pieces. The Mint soon added the word "Cents" to stop this practice.
In 1913 the Liberty Head Nickel was replaced by the Buffalo Nickel. This coin has a buffalo on the reverse, hence the name. It also is called the Indian head nickel because of the American Indian bust shown on the obverse. This coin was minted until 1938 when it was superseded by the currently used Jefferson Nickel.
© 2012 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Back to Coin Collecting
Wednesday, August 13, 2008
Jefferson Silver War Nickel
Jefferson Silver War Nickel
During World War II nickel was needed for the war effort. So the alloy of the nickel shifted from the 75% copper and 35% nickel composition to one consisting of 56% copper, 35% silver and 9% manganese. These mint mark was moved from under Monticello to over it, and it was made very large. The Jefferson nickels minted during the war will usually have a darker look than the standard alloy. The coins were produced from 1942, 1943, 1944 and 1945.
© 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Back to Coin Collecting
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Indian Head Nickel
The Indian Head Nickel is also referred to as the Buffalo Nickel. The coin, designed by James Earle Fraser, features and Indian bust on the obverse (front) and a buffalo on the reverse. The alloy used in the Indian Head Nickel is 75% copper and 35% nickel. It was minted from 1913 until 1938 when it was replaced by the Jefferson Nickel. Three American Indian chiefs served as models for the obverse, Iron Tail, Two Moons and John Big Tree. The buffalo on the reverse was probably an American bison named Black Diamond, who resided at the Central Park Zoo in New York.
© 2012 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Back to Coin Collecting
Monday, August 11, 2008
What President Is That On The Nickel?
Since 1938 the President featured on the nickel is Thomas Jefferson. His is the second longest Presidential visage in use on United States coinage, Abraham Lincoln being the longest. The reverse of the coin shows Monticello, Jefferson's Virginia home. The composition of the nickel in its early yearswas 75% copper and 35% nickel. The composition was changed during the World War 2 period to a 56% copper, 35% silver and 9% manganese alloy. This composition was used in nickels minted in 1942, 1943, 1944 and 1945. In 1946 the nickel reverted to the prewar alloy. In honor of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, which Thomas Jefferson authorized, the reverse of the coin was changed four times from 2005 - 2006. In 2006, Monticello returned to the reverse and a new, modern depiction of Jefferson made its debut.
Thursday, August 07, 2008
Fermenting Wine - The Blueberry Wine
The blueberry wine made earlier this week is bubbling away. The yeast works on the sugar in the solution converting it to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide bubbles away, leaving the alcohol behind.
Monday, August 04, 2008
How To Make Blueberry Wine - An Easy Recipe
Blueberries make and excellent wine which is very easy to make. How to make blueberry wine? Here are the ingredients:
3 - 4 pounds of blueberries
6 ounces of grape concentrate
One teaspoon of wine yeast (You may use bakers yeast, but it may impart a "bready" flavor to the finished wine.)
2 1/2 pounds of sugar.
Start the yeast ahead of time to allow it to be in full ferment when it is added to the wine must. Add one teaspoon of yeast granules to a warm 8 ounce glass of warm water in which one tablespoon of sugar has been dissolved. Then dissolve the remainder of the sugar by adding it to 1/2 gallon of boiling water. Stir until clear. When the sugar solution has cooled and the wine yeast is fermenting, you may continue the recipe. Dump the blueberries into a bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. Do not use metal. Use plastic, glazed ceramic or glass. A clean water bucket which has not been used with any type of cleaning solution will work. I have a two and a half gallon bucket which I used exclusively for making wine. It is used for nothing else. Use a potato masher to thoroughly crush the blueberries. Next add the grape concentrate. This will impart what is called "vinous quality" to the wine. Now add the cooled sugar solution. Top up with 3.5 quarts of lukewarm water. Then add the fermenting yeast. Cover the bowl with a loose fitting cover like a dishtowel or elastic food covers.
Allow this to stand for three to four days, stirring three or four times a day. It should start fermenting vigorously after a day or so. Next pour the blueberry slush through a plastic colander and press the residue with a potato masher, extracting most of the juice. Pour this into a gallon jar to ferment. Top up with cool water and place in a dark location which stays around sixty five to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Use a glass jar or thoroughly cleaned plastic milk jug. Do not put the screw top on. The bottle will explode due to the pressure buildup of carbon dioxide as the yeast ferments. Place a piece of plastic food wrap over the opening and secure with a rubber band.
This blueberry wine recipe will yield a semi-sweet wine. For a sweeter wine, add a more sugar. For a dryer wine, add a bit less. You may also sweeten the wine if it is too dry by adding a bit of sugar to it when it is done fermenting.
After the wine has fermented about two to three months, it should be siphoned off, using clear plastic, food quality tubing, into a clean gallon jug. Be careful not to disturb the sediment at the bottom. It should be done fermenting by now and the screw top can be used to protect the wine. Don't turn it tight, just leave it loose for a week or so in case the wind starts to ferment again. After the blueberry wine has aged for a few months it will be ready to drink and enjoy.
This simple recipe shows you how to make blueberry wine in just a few steps.
Monday, July 28, 2008
Here are ten easy steps to making wind from a fruit concentrate.
Step 1
Assemble your supplies - see post below
Step 2
Start your wine yeast - see post below
Step 3
Dissolve the sugar in boiling water - see post below
Step 4
Pour the fruit juice concentrate into the bowl, add the yeast and sugar - see post below
Step 5
Allow this to ferment five or six days
Step 6
Pour into a gallon jug, cover jar mouth with plastic wrap and seal with a rubber band
Step 7
Allow this to ferment for two to three months
Step 8
Siphon the now fermented wine into a new, clean jug
Step 9
Allow this to stand at least a month to age gracefully
Step 10
Drink the wine
Assemble your supplies - see post below
Step 2
Start your wine yeast - see post below
Step 3
Dissolve the sugar in boiling water - see post below
Step 4
Pour the fruit juice concentrate into the bowl, add the yeast and sugar - see post below
Step 5
Allow this to ferment five or six days
Step 6
Pour into a gallon jug, cover jar mouth with plastic wrap and seal with a rubber band
Step 7
Allow this to ferment for two to three months
Step 8
Siphon the now fermented wine into a new, clean jug
Step 9
Allow this to stand at least a month to age gracefully
Step 10
Drink the wine
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Wine Making Supplies
To make a gallon of wine you will need a few supplies, most of which can be found in the average kitchen. You will need a large glass, plastic, or glazed ceramic bowl which holds one and a half gallons to put the wine in during its initial anaerobic phase. A loose fitting cover, which can be simply a clean dishtowel to cover this container. You will also need a stainless steel or plastic spoon to stir things with and a measuring cup.
You will need a clean gallon jug of some kind. A plastic milk jug, thoroughly cleaned, will work. Don't use bleach or other jugs which may have held some kind of cleaner. The plastic may not be approved for food products and it will prove almost impossible to get the odor out of the container, which would ruin the wine. If you use an old vinegar jug, make sure it has been cleaned thouroughly or you will have vinegar instead of wine. A small piece of plastic food wrap and a rubber band can be used to cover the opening while the wine is fermenting. Be sure to save the cap for use when the wine is finished fermenting.
A short piece of food quality plastic hose, like the type used for ice makers, is good to have to siphon the wine after it has finished fermenting. And of course and wine glass to drink the wine with when it is done. It is best to gather all the wine making supplies before you make it to make sure you have what you need when you need it.
You will need a clean gallon jug of some kind. A plastic milk jug, thoroughly cleaned, will work. Don't use bleach or other jugs which may have held some kind of cleaner. The plastic may not be approved for food products and it will prove almost impossible to get the odor out of the container, which would ruin the wine. If you use an old vinegar jug, make sure it has been cleaned thouroughly or you will have vinegar instead of wine. A small piece of plastic food wrap and a rubber band can be used to cover the opening while the wine is fermenting. Be sure to save the cap for use when the wine is finished fermenting.
A short piece of food quality plastic hose, like the type used for ice makers, is good to have to siphon the wine after it has finished fermenting. And of course and wine glass to drink the wine with when it is done. It is best to gather all the wine making supplies before you make it to make sure you have what you need when you need it.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
Home Wine Making
According to Federal law since 1978 a homeowner may make up to 200 gallons of wine and beer for their own consumption. Home wine making before that was illegal, but many people still did it. Since it has become legal, there has been an explosion of new supplies, concentrates, yeasts and other supplies needed by the home wine maker.
Making good wine at home is not only legal now, but easy and fun as well. It is not for the person used to immediate gratification, though. Fermenting the wine will take a minimum of a couple of months, and most wines benefit from aging for at least a few months before consumption.
There are many choices out there for the home wine maker as to ingredients used to make the wine. You can use fresh fruit, dried fruit or frozen concentrates. Certain flowers, like dandelion, make excellent wine as well.
Any online wine supplier will have many different types of yeast, cleaners, bottles, corks and anything else you need to make your own great wine at home. And best of all, after you have learned a bit about the home wine making art, you will be able to craft your wine to suit your own palate.
Making Great Wine From Frozen Fruit Concentrates
Standard Sugar Syrup
Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 4
Making Dandelion Wine - Part One
Dandelion Wine - Part 2
Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 2
Back to Hobby List
© 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Making good wine at home is not only legal now, but easy and fun as well. It is not for the person used to immediate gratification, though. Fermenting the wine will take a minimum of a couple of months, and most wines benefit from aging for at least a few months before consumption.
There are many choices out there for the home wine maker as to ingredients used to make the wine. You can use fresh fruit, dried fruit or frozen concentrates. Certain flowers, like dandelion, make excellent wine as well.
Any online wine supplier will have many different types of yeast, cleaners, bottles, corks and anything else you need to make your own great wine at home. And best of all, after you have learned a bit about the home wine making art, you will be able to craft your wine to suit your own palate.
Making Great Wine From Frozen Fruit Concentrates
Standard Sugar Syrup
Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 4
Making Dandelion Wine - Part One
Dandelion Wine - Part 2
Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 2
Back to Hobby List
© 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Lincoln Head Cent
The Lincoln Head Cent is approaching it's 100th birthday and as such, it is the longest running coin in continuous production in United States History. From 1909 until 1959 the reverse bore an impression of two sheaves of wheat, from which originated the term "Wheaties". From 1959 until present the Lincoln Head Cent reverse bears and engraving of the Lincoln Memorial, so they are called "Memorial Cents".
From their inception until 1942 the coins were composed of a bronze alloy, 95% copper and 5% tin and zinc. During the War year 1943 the coins were composed of zinc coated steel. From 1946 the composition changed to brass, 95% copper and 5% zinc. After the War, the composition changed back to the pre-war alloy until 1962. From 1962 until 1982 the composition was brass again. From 1982 until present the coins have a 97.5% zinc core and are plated with copper. © 2012 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts Back to Coin Collecting
Monday, June 23, 2008
Small Cents - The Indian Head Penny
The Lincoln Head Cent is approaching it's 100th birthday and as such, it is the longest running coin in continuous production in United States History. From 1909 until 1959 the reverse bore an impression of two sheaves of wheat, from which originated the term "Wheaties". From 1959 until present the Lincoln Head Cent reverse bears and engraving of the Lincoln Memorial, so they are called "Memorial Cents". From their inception until 1942 the coins were composed of a bronze alloy, 95% copper and 5% tin and zinc. During the War year 1943 the coins were composed of zinc coated steel. From 1946 the composition changed to brass, 95% copper and 5% zinc. After the War, the composition changed back to the pre-war alloy until 1962. From 1962 until 1982 the composition was brass again. From 1982 until present the coins have a 97.5% zinc core and are plated with copper. © 2012THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts Back to Coin Collecting
Thursday, June 19, 2008
The Flying Eagle Cent
The flying eagle cent was designed and produced to fulfil a need. Coinage in the United States in the 1840's through the 1860's was a confused state of affairs. Large cents were being produced, but were not considered legal tender. Thus, many merchants would not accept them as payment. There was also a large amount of foreign money circulating, most of it Spanish. It was also costing the US Mint more to produce the Large Cent than it was intrinsically worth.
So in 1856 a small number of the first Small Cents in US history were produced. These were supposed to be sample pieces and returned to the mint. But most weren't. In 1857 the first Flying Eagle cents were minted for circulation. These would continue in production until 1859, when it's successor the Indian Head Cent would be minted.
The Flying Eagles would consist of an alloy of 88% nickel and 12% copper. The main problems with the Flying Eagle was in the design, which allowed the two high points in the obverse in the same area of the coin, causing a weakness in the strike. In addition, the designer, James B. Longacre, was by trade a painter and not a sculptor. He had trouble carving the dies out deep enough, which caused more production problems. Thus, the Flying Eagle exited the stage after a run of only two years. © 2012 Hobby Hobnob Back to Coin Collecting
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
The Penny - 1857 - 2008
The penny has had a long and distinguished history in the annals of United States coinage. The small penny we know has its beginnings in the Flying Eagle cent which began production in 1857. This penny was produced for three years.
In 1857 the US Mint began production of the Indian Head Penny, which was circulated from that year until 1909 when it was superseded by the Lincoln Head Penny, which continues in production today.
The Lincoln Penny was produced from 1909 until 1959 with two sheave of wheat on the reverse. These are the so called Wheat Pennies, or Wheaties. Although the Lincoln Penny has been changed in composition over time, the design has remained basically the same since 1950 when the Memorial cent came into production.
The small penny we know today has circulated for 151 years with only four major design pages. © 2012 Hobby Hobnob Back to Coin Collecting
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