Basic information about various hobby and craft topics.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

History of Beer


The brewing of beer is an ancient craft, believed by many archeologists to be over 10,000 years old. The first domesticated grains were wheat and barley, with archeological evidence of these crops first being grown in Mesopotamia around 7000 BC. Beer making, as it depends primarily on these grains, surely made its entrance to human history shortly after the domestication of these important food crops. The first beer could have been accidentally produced. Stored grain, becoming wet, could have fermented naturally, producing beer. And the resulting brew undoubtedly both smelled and looked good to someone, who tasted it, and experienced the first hangover in history.



Before 6000 BC, beer was made from barley in Sumeria and Babylonia. Reliefs on Egyptian tombs dating from 2400 BC show that barley or partly germinated barley was crushed, mixed with water, and dried into cakes. When broken up and mixed with water, the cakes gave an extract that was fermented by microorganisms accumulated on the surfaces of fermenting vessels.

The first beer making process was very simple, given the limited technology of the time. The grains would have been fermented only a short time and this beer would not have been carbonated.

The basic techniques of brewing came to Europe from the Middle East. The Roman historians Pliny (in the 1st century BC) and Tacitus (in the 1st century AD) reported that Saxons, Celts, and Nordic and Germanic tribes drank ale. In fact, many of the English terms used in brewing (malt, mash, wort, ale) are Anglo-Saxon in origin. During the Middle Ages, the monastic orders preserved brewing as a craft. Hops were in use in Germany in the 11th century, and in the 15th century they were introduced into Britain from Holland. In 1420, beer was made in Germany by a bottom fermentation process; before that, yeast rose to the top of the fermenting product and was allowed to overflow or was manually skimmed. Brewing was a winter occupation, and ice was used to keep beer cool during the summer months. Such beer came to be called lager (from German lagern, “to store”). The term lager is still used to denote beer produced from bottom-fermenting yeast, and the term ale is now used for top-fermented British types of beer.

Since beer was a popular beverage among our ancestors, techniques improved over time. The basic principles of brewing were developed in the Middle East and gradually spread to Europe. In the first Century BC Roman Pliny reported that the north Europeans - the Saxons, Celts, and Nordic and Germanic tribes drank ale. Indeed, many of the brewing terms used today are of Germanic origin. And the history of beer in Europe was largely written by these hardy folk.

Beer making was kept alive as a craft by monasteries during the Middle Ages. By now techniques had improved further. Nettles were used to flavor the beer, giving it a tart flavor and aroma. The grain was heated over open wood fires. This resulted in the final product having a very dark color, and smoky taste.

Germans started using hops, a relative of the nettle, to flavor beer around 1300. Hops were imported into England, but met with much resistance. Acceptance in England was slow among many, and as late as 1512 a churchman forbade the use of the "wicked pernicious weed, hops" in the brewing of ale.

Brewing in these early times was a family chore. Throughout the middle ages, and before, part of the tax paid by serfs was a quantity of beer, or ale, paid to the lord of the manor. Gradually this changed. In villages, a family would emerge as having a superior beer recipe. Neighbors would purchase beer from them, rather than indulge in the laborious process themselves. In this way alehouses were born, the brewers selling their beer to fellow villagers and travelers passing through. There developed literally thousands of different types of beer, each alehouse producing its own distinctive brew.

Scientific instruments did not exist during these early days to control the quality of the brew. By the fourteenth century an official post was created in many town - the al-conner, or ale taster. His task was to taste the brew produced by an alehouse. If it didn’t meet standards, he could downgrade the beer, reducing its price. He usually wore leather breeches and sat on a wooden bench. A tankard of ale was poured on the bench, and he sat for half an hour. If the bench stuck to his breeches, he ruled that the ale contained too much sugar, not enough alcohol and was downgraded. If he could stand up unhindered, the beer was of good quality.

In England, colleges brewed their own ale. This was continued through the 14th century. After this time the practice gradually went away, by mid 18th century only four remained. Queens College in Oxford brewed continuously for 600 years, until World War II.

Until the early fifteenth century beer was made by using a top fermenting yeast. The fermenting yeast was allowed to overflow the fermenting container, or was skimmed off with a wooden paddle or spoon. The Germans around 1420 developed a bottom fermenting yeast, which produced a beer which would store for longer periods than the previous beers. As beer making was primarily a winter occupation, and the beer was stored using ice procured from lakes, rivers, and ponds during the winter, this was an important development. The German word "lagern", meaning, "to store" caused these beers to be called "lagers". This is the primary type of beer drank in Germany and US today. English ales are still produced using top fermenting yeast.

The nineteenth century saw a general increase in scientific study and advancement. These new technologies launched the Industrial Revolution, which touched every aspect of life, including beer making. Heated rotating bins were developed to improve drying the malt, producing a lighter, golden beer. Refrigeration enabled the brewing process to be scheduled year round, instead of seasonal production. This also allowed beer to be shipped greater distances. A direct result of this is the existence of the larger brewers today shipping their product all over the world.

Also developed during this period were two important instruments for brewing - the sachrometer and thermometer. With the thermometer the precise temperature of the beer could be determined and controlled from start to finish. The sachrometer is a glass instrument which floats in the liquid. By the level at which it floats, the graduations on the side of the instrument indicate the sugar content of a liquid. It was now easier to ascertain when a brew was finished fermenting, and the alcohol content could be determined accurately.

Most important was the research of Louis Pasteur in the 1860’s. Previous to Pasteur, it was believed that fermentation was caused by organisms created spontaneously in the fermenting brew. He proved that yeast were the creatures responsible for fermentation, and that they, along with other organisms, were present in the air to which the fermenting brew was exposed. The other organisms sometimes contaminated the fermenting brew, causing it to go bad. With this knowledge, brewers could now isolate the best yeast cultures and have more control over the brewing process.

The Industrial Revolution brought the mechanization of brewing. Better control over the process, with the use of the thermometer and saccharometer, was developed in Britain and transferred to the Continent, where the development of ice-making and refrigeration equipment in the late 19th century enabled lager beers to be brewed in summer. In the 1860s the French chemist Louis Pasteur established many of the microbiological practices still used in brewing. The Danish botanist Emile Hansen devised methods for growing yeasts in culture free of other yeasts and bacteria. This pure-culture technology was quickly taken up by continental lager brewers but not until the 20th century by the ale brewers of Britain. Meanwhile, German-style bottom-fermented lagers fermented by pure yeast cultures became dominant in the Americas.

Brewing has become very big business. Modern breweries use stainless-steel equipment and computer-controlled automated operations, and they package beer in metal casks, glass bottles, aluminum cans, and plastic containers. Beers are now exported worldwide and are produced under license in foreign countries. During the late 1970’s the large brewers in the US bought out or forced out of business many smaller, regional breweries, resulting in less variety in beer types available. By the 1990’s, in response to consumer demand, smaller microbreweries and brewpubs began operations, producing handcrafted local brews on a smaller scale, mimicking the small alehouses of long ago.

Technology has also made brewing simpler for the home beer maker. Modern kits allow the home brewer too easily and conveniently produce their own brew in their homes, like our ancestors did many centuries ago, when home beer making was a family craft. The history of brewing and beer making is a fascinating field of study.

© THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts 2012

Home Beer Making

© Hobby Hobnob 2012

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Home Beer Making


The brewing of beer is an ancient craft, believed by many archeologists to be over 10,000 years old. The first domesticated grains were wheat and barley, with archeological evidence of these crops first being grown in Mesopotamia around 7000 BC. Beer making, as it depends primarily on these grains, surely made its entrance to human history shortly after the domestication of these important food crops. The first beer could have been accidentally produced. Stored grain, becoming wet, could have fermented naturally, producing beer. And the resulting brew undoubtedly both smelled and looked good to someone, who tasted it, and experienced the first hangover in history.

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Wednesday, May 14, 2008

2007 United States Mint Silver Proof Set™(V70)


Coin collectors can purchase the complete 2007 proof set now at the United States Mint web site. This set has the Lincoln penny, Jefferson nickel, Roosevelt dime and all five issues of 2007 State Quarters. In addition to this, it has the Sacagawea gold dollar and the Kennedy half. There are fourteen coins in this set, including seven silver ones. Back to Coin Collecting

Monday, May 12, 2008

US Mint - 2007 First Spouse Series



The US Mint has begun a series which I am surprised wasn't done a long time ago with the launching of the First Spouse Series. This series honors the spouse's of Presidents. These gold dollars are available in uncirculated and proof conditions. This first years offerings include Martha Washington, Abigail Adams, Thomas Jefferson’s Liberty and Dolley Madison. Available now singly or in a four piece set are Dolley Madison and Abigail Adams. Back to Coin Collecting

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Building Balsa Airplanes



Building and flying stick built model airplanes is a fun and fascinating hobby. The Build and Fly series of beginner suitable model airplanes is a good place to start. There are four models in the series, starting with the easy to build Goldwing. You progress through the next three, the Cadet, Cloudbuster and Flyboy model airplanes. When you finish the series you will have learned enough to build any of the model airplanes from Guillow's.

Back To Balsa Wood Airplanes

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

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Wednesday, April 30, 2008

2008 Sacagawea Golden Dollar




The 2008 Sacagawea Golden Dollar is now available at the US Mint web site. The gold dollars are available in rolls and bags. The obverse of this beautiful coin is engraved with a likeness of Sacagawea, the young American Indiana woman who guided the Lewis and Clark expdedition. The reverse features an eagle soaring among seventeen stars, one for each of the states which made up the United States at the time of the expedition.
The Sacagawea Golden Dollar is legal tender, and may be used as money, if you so desire. The coins were minted at the Philadelphia mint, thus feature the "P" mint mark.
© 2011 Hobby Hobnob
Back to Coin Collecting

Monday, April 28, 2008

Dandelion Wine - Part 3


The dandelion wine was ready for the next stage in the wine making process - straining the pulp and putting the fermentation jug.

Today I used a plastic colander to strain the raisins and other pulp from the must. Then I used a plastic spoon to squeeze the excess juice from the material in the colander. The must didn't quite fill the gallon jug, so I added one half cup of sugar syrup to the jug and topped it up with water.

Then I fitted a fermentation lock on the jug and put it on a plate on the kitchen counter. This is a precautionary step, in case the fermentation goes crazy and overflows. In a day or so, if it stay relatively quiet I will move it to the wine cellar.

The color is a bit more pink than I wanted. I used grape wine as the starter for the yeast, so the normally golden colored wine will probably have a tint of pink to it. Back to Dandelion Wine © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Dandelion Wine - Part 2


That evening I placed the raisins in the bucket I used to pick the blossoms. This bucket is only used for wine making. I squeezed the juice from the two oranges and added the juice from a lemon. I added three cups of sugar syrup, the equivalent of one and a half pound of sugar. Then I topped up the water to the four quart line on the side of the bucket. I used a hydrometer to measure the sugar content. It was only around 1065, equivalent to about 8.5% alcohol content. Since wine should be at least 10% to be good, I added another cup of sugar syrup. This raised the specific gravity to around 1085, which is just over 10%. Since the raisins add sugar and this is impossible for me to measure, the finished wine should be around 11% or so.

I then added my fermenting wine yeast culture which had been previously prepared. You can add the dried yeast directly to the must, but it will take a bit longer to start. I then covered the must with a clean dish towel and let it stand in a warm area. By the next morning the wine had started fermenting. This should sit for around five or six days, fermenting on this pulp. Stir is two or three times a day with a plastic or stainless steel spoon.

Back to Dandelion Wine

© 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Making Dandelion Wine - Part One


On Monday I picked the blossoms for a one gallon batch of Dandelion wine. My mother made a mean dandelion wine when I was a kid, and I have her recipe.
About two quarts of picked dandelion blossoms. Pick off the green base of the flower, it will provide a bitter taste to the wine.
Two oranges
One lemon
One one pound box of white raisins
One pack of wine yeast
Four cups of standard sugar syrup or two pounds of sugar
One tea bag.

The first step in making dandelion wine is to pick the blossoms. Choose a sunny day when the blossoms are at their fullest. Pick the blossom, then pluck the base of the flower off and discard. Place the blossoms in a clean container. I have a water bucket which had quart graduations marked on the inside. This bucket is used only for wine making, so it is not contaminated with anything.

Once the dandelion blossoms have been gathered, boil two quarts of water. Place the tea bag in with the blossoms and pour the boiling water over the blossoms. The tea bag will add tannin to the wine, improving its flavor. Allow this to steep for several hours. I let it stand overnight. In the morning, I didn't have time to make the wine, so I strained the blossoms using a plastic colander. Don't use a metal one, which may impart a metallic flavor to the wine. Press the soggy blossoms with a plastic or stainless steel spoon until most of the juice is removed. I then placed the mixture in a plastic pitcher, sealed it with the lid and placed it in the refrigerator.

I would make the dandelion wine that evening.

Dandelion Wine - Part 2

Back to Home Wine Making

Dandelion Wine - Part 3 © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts

Tuesday, April 08, 2008

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 4

Add the grape juice concentrate, the two cups of sugar syrup and three quarts of water to the bowl and stir them well. Next, add the fermenting yeast starter. Cover the bowl with a clean towel or other covering and allow to stand for four or five days. The ferment, in its initial vigor, will froth up, possibly overflowing the bowl if it is not big enough.

After the ferment has calmed down, using a funnel, pour the still fermenting wine into the gallon jug. Fit a piece of plastic food wrap over the mouth of the jug and secure with a rubber band. Place in a cool, dark area to ferment. The wine will take about two to three months to complete the fermentation process. Back to Home Wine Making © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts

Thursday, April 03, 2008

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - Standard Sugar Syrup

It is helpful to dissolve the sugar in water before making the wine. To do this, you may use a recipe for standard sugar syrup, used by many home wine makers. To make sugar syrup, dissolve the sugar at a rate of two cups of sugar into one cup of water. Bring the water to a boil, then slowly add the sugar a cup or two at a time. Stir the solution until the syrup clears, then add more until it is all added.

The sugar syrup will clear when all the sugar has been dissolved. Allow the solution to cool. One cup of standard sugar syrup is equivalent to one half pound of sugar. Back to Home Wine Making © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts

Monday, March 31, 2008

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 2

The first step in making wine from a grape concentrate, or any other fruit concentrate, is to gather your materials. For a one gallon batch of wine you will need twenty four ounces of grape concentrate, one pound of sugar, one tablespoon of wine yeast and about a gallon of water.

In addition to the ingredients you will need the following supplies. A plastic or glass bowl or other container safe for food products which will hold more than one gallon. A plastic or glass funnel. An eight or twelve ounce drinking glass, a one gallon glass or food rated plastic jug, a bit of plastic wrap and a rubber band. Save the cap from the jug for use later. If you use a vinegar jug to make the wine from concentrate in, make sure it is rinsed very, very well.

Once you have these materials on hand, make up a yeast starter. Dissolve one tablespoon of sugar in the drinking glass filled with warm water. Make sure the water is just lukewarm, and not hot. Now pour the wine yeast into the glass and cover with a paper towel secured with a rubber band. Place this glass in a warm spot for a few hours. After the yeast has begun fermenting you will see a white foam on top of the water. Now you are ready to make your grape concentrate wine. Back to Home Wine Making © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate


Drinking wine is a very pleasurable experience, and making the wine you drink can be even more enjoyable. After a long hiatus from this wonderful hobby, I recently began making wine again. Since I started in January, finding grapes to make wine with, I opted to make wine using a frozen grape concentrate. Since wine grape concentrates are not readily available locally, I decided to use frozen Concord grape juice concentrate from the grocers freezer display.

I have done this before, but it has been a long, long time. The wine made using this procedure is quite acceptable for a vin ordinaire. Making wine from concentrate is a pretty easy process, and you don't need a lot of fancy equipment. The next several entries will cover this fun little project in detail. When finished, you will be able to make wine from grape, or any other fruit juice concentrate, quickly and easily.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Coin Collecting - American Eagle Silver Dollar


The United States Mint has announced that American Eagle Silver uncirculated coins are available to buy on their web site. The coins have the "W" mint mark, testimony to their striking at the West Point mint. The American Eagle Silver Dollar coin is billed as the collector's version of the bullion version of this silver dollar and has a similar finish. The 2008 American Eagle One Ounce Silver Uncirculated Coin's official beginning sales date is March 17, 2008 and any orders placed before that time will not be honored. You may buy this new coin issue at the United States Mint web site. © 2011 THC Toys, Hobbies and Crafts Back to Coin Collecting

Tuesday, March 04, 2008

Kite History - World War 2


As late as World War II, kites had a role to play in warfare. Sauls' Barrage Kite was a sort of double box kite which was a strong, stable flying kite. A man named Harry Sauls designed the kite to be used to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite found a use during World War 2 as a means of protecting merchant ships from enemy airplane attacks. A wire, similar to piano wire, was used to hold the kite aloft over the ship. The wire was invisible to enemy warplanes and was strong enough to destroy the prop or cut off a wing. Strategically placed, these kites deterred enemy dive bomber attacks. In addition, explosives or bombs were attached to the wires to further deter attack.

Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island during World War 2. An avid kite flyer, he watched as the carriers gunnery crews practiced target shooting using clouds as targets. He decided to find a better method, so he built a kite and threw the gauntlet down to the gun crews. Hit the kite, was the challenge. The gunnery crews found this to be a difficult task. The ships captain, seeing the improvement in the accuracy of the gun crews shooting, ordered Garber to build more kites for target practice. He eventually came up with a design which allowed him to mimic an airplane's movements as it approached the ship. It became standard practice for gun crews to use kites to practice and much credit is given to the target kites saving many ships due to the gunnery crews improved accuracy.

Another device used during the war was called the Gibson Girl. It consisted of a box kite, antennae, and hand crank radio. It was packed in with life rafts, to be used in an emergency. The kite both acted as a beacon to signal rescue aircraft to the location of the raft, and as a support for the antennae. The hand cranked radio, of course, was used to signal rescuers. Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition © 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Monday, March 03, 2008

History of Kites - World War I

During World War I, kites were used for various military purposes. The French assembled a kite corps which consisted of a trailer, car and a motor driven winch which was used for observation. Kites were used by infantry divisions of all the combatants to observe enemy positions. When the airplane came into general use, these divisions were disbanded.

The kite continued to be useful at sea. Germany devised a box kite which would fit in a U Boat to be used at sea. An observer elevated on a kite to an altitude of 400 feet can see almost 250 miles over open ocean. Similar systems were used on sea going warships of other nations.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Friday, February 29, 2008

History of the Kite - The Wright Brothers


In 1899 the Wright brothers designed and built a special box kite to use to test and develope their theories about controlling the flight of an aircraft. This was a biplane box kite about six feet long, fifteen inches wide and about fifteen inches tall. All the framework was hinged to allow it to twist. The kite was controlled from the ground with four strings tied to strategic places on the frame. Using this system, they developed ways to control the kites ability to bank right and left, dive and climb.



They designed and built several kites using this design, always perfecting the design and gaining more control. Using these kites as models they constructed a glider in 1900. This glider had the capacity to carry a man, but the brothers decided to test it before flying in it themselves. They did not want to suffer the same fate as Lilianthal, who died flying one of his gliders. The glider was flown like a kite at first, using the ground control system they had developed for the box kites.

All of this experimenting led, of course, to their eventual success on December 12, 1903. History of Flight and Avaition

Back To All About Kites © 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Kite History - The Telegraph

Guglielmo Marconi used kites in his development of the wireless telegraph system. On Dec. 12, 1901 Marconi and his team used a kite constructed from a wood frame and sail cloth. It had a hemp mooring cord attached to a wooden pole. A 600 foot long was also attached to the pole, with a lead going to the radio shack in which Marconi had his receiving apparatus. The kite most probably was a Levitor kite, which was well known among kite flyers for its lifting capabilities.



The originating transmission came from a tower located near St. John's, Newfoundland. shortly after noon, after much trial and tribulation, the signal was tapped out in New Foundland and received at Marconi's kite held antennae and the era of wireless trans-Atlantic radio communications had begun.

Back To All About Kites

History of Flight and Aviation

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

History of Kites - Torpedoes

Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane during the Crimean War devised some new weapons to be used against the Russian. These included explosion vessels and stink ships, which were ships loaded with coke and sulphur which, when ignited, would emit a suffocating fog.

Another of his schemes was the use of twelve foot kites towing torpedoes into enemy ships. The method was successfully implemented in practice runs, but was found to be impractical in actual use. The reason being that prevailing winds and the location of enemy ships were not always favorable.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition © 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Ben Franklin And His Kite


Kites have also contributed to the pioneering efforts in the scientific field of electricity. Most people have heard of Benjamin Franklin's kite experiment. The story has entered into American legend. He flew the kite during the early stages of an electric storm, when he felt that electric power was building in the clouds, but before actual lightning was produced. being produced.



He designed a kite specifically to draw electricity from the clouds which was made from silk instead of paper so it would withstand the rain without tearing. The kite had a pointed wire arising from the frame, which gathered electricity from the overhead storm clouds. As the storm wettened the kite and silk string, they were able to conduct the electricity to a key he hung near the ground. He stood inside a building so the end of silk he held did not get wet, and thus conduct the charge to him. The key became electrified, and sparked with electricity. He used the electricity to charge a Leyden Jar, which is a capacitor, which had been recently invented.

Franklin conducted many experiments with electricity during his lifetime, and made many contributions to the budding science. The kite helped him form some theories about it and learn something of its nature.

Back To All About Kites

History of Flight and Avaition © 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Monday, February 25, 2008

History of the Kite - Niagara Gorge Kite Contest


During this same period, in America, another novel use for kites was found. In 1845, a bridge across the Niagara Gorge above the falls was envisioned. The Falls had become a huge tourist attraction and developers imagined huge profits if a bridge above it could be constructed. But in an age before helicopters how do you stretch a cable across an eight hundred foot gorge which towers over two hundred feet above a treacherous rapids.



Kites were suggested by one engineer. And from this the idea of the Niagara Gorge Kite Contest was born. In January 1848 the contest commenced. After several failed attempts, young Homan Walsh succeeded on January 30, 1848. His prize was about ten dollars. With a kite line now across the gorge, it was used to pull a stronger line across. Then a rope was attached to this line and pulled across. Finally, a steel cable was pulled across. This cable paved the way for the first cable car to cross the gorge, then a suspension bridge later that same year.



Back To All About Kites

History of Flight and Avaitio

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Friday, February 22, 2008

History of Kites - Carriages


George Pocock a few years later did a lot of experimenting with kites. Pocock was an inventor and schoolteacher from Bristol, England. He started his experiments using kites to lift weights. Starting with small stones, he gradually worked his way up to using a specially designed chair to first lift his daughter, then his son, into the air in 1825. He used the kite to place his son on the top of a high cliff on the English coast. His son dismounted, then remounted and returned safely to the earth.

Perhaps the most interesting idea he came up with was kite drawn carriages. In 1826 he designed a device he called the Charvolant (from the French char for carriage attached to volant from the French term for kite: cerf-volant). This was a fairly elaborate kite drawn carriage complete with steering and braking capability. He achieved speeds of up to twenty miles an hour with this vehicle and easily overtook horse drawn carriages with it. He even undertook a 113 mile trip through the English countryside with it.

Back To All About Kites

History of Flight and Avaition

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Thursday, February 21, 2008

History Of Kites - Meteorology

Alexander Wilson was a Scottish astronomer and meteorologist and was one of the founding members of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. He lived from 1714 - 1719 and made numerous contributions to astronomy and meteorology. Dr. Wilson was the first scientist to use kites as a scientific tool.



In 1749, while a professor at the University of Glasgow, he attached thermometers to a string of kites and measured the air temperatures at different altitudes. He managed to record temperatures as high as 3000 feet. He was assisted in this endeavor by a student named Thomas Melville. The thermometers were attached to the kite with a fuse. When the fuse burned out, the thermometer was released and parachuted back to earth using paper brushes. The temperature at various altitudes was successfully recorded using this method.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition



© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

History of the Kite - Sir George Cayley


Sir George Cayley (1773-1857) was the first person to study the science of aerodynamics seriously. He is considered by many to be the "Father of Aerodynics." Scarbourgh, England was the place of his birth. He was an English baronet and inventor who created the basic design of the modern aircraft.

The first aircraft Cayley built was a kite type craft with a movable tail. The kite flew quite successfully for a ten year period, 1799 - 1809, Cayley experimented extensively with kites. It was during this period that he developed many of his designs for his later work.

All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Tuesday, February 19, 2008

Kites - A History - Evolution



Regardless of where the kite originated, kite flying and building spread slowly across the world from its home in Asia. Marco Polo, a famous thirteenth century explorer and merchant, wrote extensively about kites when he returned to his home in Italy in 1295. Kites in Europe were made from parchment and were inititially regarded as children's toys.


This perception slowly changed over the ensuing centuries as military strategists and the budding interest in science saw their potential. The kite evolved over time to become a weapon, surveillance tool and scientific instrument as well as serve as a valuable precursor to the beginnings of controlled, heavier than air flight by humans.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaitio

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Monday, February 18, 2008

History of Kites - Malaysia


China is usually mentioned as the originator of the kite. This is mostly because the Chinese learned how to weave silk into cloth and thread and had bamboo available which is an ideal framework for kites. But a case can be made that Malaysia was the first place in history where kites were flown.



Malaysia has a very long tradition of kite flying. Their first kites were made from leaves using bamboo as a structural material. Leaf kites are still flown there. There are many trees there with very large leaves. And it is easy to imagine that leaves flying in the wind could have inspired the first kite builders.

History of Flight and Avaition

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Friday, February 15, 2008

History of Kites - Thailand



Kites were introduced to Thailand from China. The Thais used them to carry cargo, developed the sport of kite fighting and and used the kites to send messages to the gods. A Thai king may also used kites to deliver the first aerial bombing in history. He had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites and flew them over a rebel fortification and the resulting explosions caused the rebels to give up and surrender.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Thursday, February 14, 2008

History of Kites - Japan


Another country in which the kite became important was Japan. According to legend, Buddhist monks brought kite technology to Japan during the Nara Period, which lasted from about 649-794 AD. By 981 AD the word "paper hawk" or "Kami Tobi" appeared in the Japanese language. The name suggests that most Japanese kites were bird shaped.

The Japanese developed many useful uses for kites. They were used to lift roofing tiles and other building materials to the tops of shrines and other buildings under construction. There are many legends involving kites as well. An Icarus type tale with a happy ending involves a twelfth century Japanese warrior and his son who was exiled to an island. The son grew lonely and the father, sympathetic to his son's plight, built a huge kite which the son rode to escape to the mainland.

One Japanese tradition involves the carp and kites. When a new son is born, a carp shaped kite is flown. May 5 is Boys Day in Japan and parents fly carp shaped kites in equal number to the sons which they have. In Japan the carp is the symbol of courage and strength. This is because the carp must swim upstream past many obstacles to reach its spawning grounds.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition © 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Thursday, February 07, 2008

Kites In Chinese History


Kites In Chinese History The kite became very important in Chinese culture. They developed many different types, some even having bamboo whistles attached to them which whistle in the wind. As such, the kite has taken on much religious and philosophical symbolism. Flying a kite is believed to bring good luck, and the higher the kite flies the more luck it brings. Kites are also flown to ward off evil spirits. Marco Polo wrote about the Chinese custom which merchants used a kite to tell them if ships should be launched on a voyage. They would find an intoxicated man, tie him to a kite and fly the kite over the harbor. If the kite flew well, the ships were launched. If the kite crashed into the sea, the boats were kept in port. Kite making in China is a very advanced art. Most designs found on kites symbolize something important in Chinese culture. Some are for good luck, others harmony, still others power and prosperity. Today there are many kite festivals in China which celebrate the kite and its importance in Chinese culture. Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaitio

Tuesday, February 05, 2008

History of Kites - China

Kites were used by the Chinese early in their history to gain military advantages over their enemies. Han Hsin of the Han Dynasty used a kite to help him capture a city. The kite was flown over the city and allowed to go over the city's walls. The line was marked and the kite hauled in. Next, a tunnel was dug, using the kite's line as a guide to the length the tunnel needed to be to enter the city under the wall. His troops thus were able to surprise the enemy from within the city and it fell.

Kites were also used militarily in other ways. Observers were lifted up into the air to spy on enemy troop positions. Some were used to lift fireworks into the air to confuse and terrify enemy troops in battle. Different shapes of kites were flown to send certain types of messages to troops during battle, and some were flown after being set on fire to deliver other types of messages. The history of kites used in battle is a long and storied one.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition

Friday, February 01, 2008

Who Invented the Kite?

Two Chinese philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are the legendary inventors of the kite.

Lu Ban, according to tradition, built a wooden bird model which had the ability to stay aloft for up to three days. He lived during the fifth century BC, and this is the period during which kites were thought to be invented. His real name was Gongshu Ban, he was born in the Chinese state of Lu. In addition to being a master carpenter he was also a philosopher, military thinker, and statesman. Lu Ban was a contemporary of Mozi.

Mozi was a trained engineer and master craftsman who designed and built everything from mechanical birds to weapons of war. Later in his life he became a pacifist who went to great lenths to discourage Chinese rulers from warfare.

These two Chinese craftsmen are the lengendary inventors of the kite. There are records of kites being flown in 559 BC in China, so this could be true.

Back To All About Kites History of Flight and Avaition

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

Wednesday, January 30, 2008

When Were Kites Invented?


Around 400 BC, the Chinese discovered how to build a kite. The Chinese had all the ingredients for the early kites. Silk was used for both the lightweight fabric needed to make the sail, and silk thread had the combined qualities of being both strong and lightweight making it ideal for the line. Bamboo, being both strong and light, made an ideal material for the framework.

Two Chinese philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are the legendary inventors of the kite. Mozi was a trained engineer, Lu Ban a carpenter. Lu Ban, according to tradition, built a wooden bird model which had the ability to stay aloft for up to three days. So during the fifth century BC is thought to be when kites were invented.

The Chinese had a variety of uses for the kite. It was used to measure distances, as a signal, lifting men aloft, and as a military communication system. They were also used to test weather conditions, religious ceremonies, and recreation. When kites were invented, it didn't take the Chinese long to find uses for them.

History of Flight and Avaitio

Back To All About Kites

Tuesday, January 01, 2008

History of the Wright Flyer


A Short History Of The Wright Flyer Airplane

The story of the first heavier than air aircraft, "Flyer 1", as dubbed by its inventors Orville and Wilbur Wright, is a fascinating saga.

Orville and Wilbur Wright were successful businessmen, printers by trade, in Dayton, Ohio. There they published the West Side News, which was edited by Wilbur. They followed this success by opening a bicycle shop in 1992. In this shop they began selling bicycles made by tools which they had invented.

The Wrights had been fascinated with the idea of flight since they were boys. The studied the progress of Otto Lienthal and others working on the science of avation at the time. And the bicycle shop provided them with a place to design and build gliders, which they began testing at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina in 1900. The location was a place called Kill Devil Hill, the first test flight coming in September of that year. Kitty Hawk was chosen because of the winds off the ocean.

They continued constructin g gliders for the next two years, the final tests coming in 1902. The design of the glider flown that year was the direct ancestor of the Wright Flyer airplane to be successfully flown the next year.

By 1903 Flyer I was ready and so were the Wright brothers. The Wright Flyer was of a design called a Canard. The pilot flew the airplane lying on his belly on the bottom wing, his head facing forward. The plane was steered by a cradle attached to the pilots hips. The cradle was attached to cables which warped the wings, steering the plane. On the first flights on December 17, 1903, no steering was attempted. The Wright Flyer only flew in straight lines that day. The Flyer weighed 750 pounds and used a twelve horsepower engine built specially for the airplane by Charlie Taylor, an employee. Mr Taylor built the engine in six weeks from scratch, working without a drawing.

The Wright Flyers first airplane flight was made by Orville. They had tossed a coin, won by Wilbur, three days earlier, had resulted in a crash which took three days to repair. So on December 17, the Wright Flyer stood on its 2 X 4 track, nicknamed the "Junction Railroad" by the Wrights, and after Orville spun the propellor and started the motor, Wilbur took off for the very first powered aircraft flight, which lasted twelve seconds and went 120 feet. The propellor, by the way, was also a Wright brother design.

There were three more flights that day, one of which had two very bumpy landings when the airplane bounced off the ground and finally settled. The last flight the Wright Flyer's the front elevator' supports were damaged.

The Wrights crated the Flyer up after the test flights that year and placed it in storage. It was damaged in a flood, and repaired by Orville in 1916 and placed on display. The airplane is still on public display, having been restored in 1985 to repair damage sustained by years of exposure.
© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

History of Flight and Avaition

Friday, December 28, 2007

Pinewood Derby Catalog

Pinewood Derby Catalog Back to Pine Wood Derby

Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Build A Train Layout

This column is the second in a series which will help you plan the steps of building a model railroad. Toy trains are fun, and building a layout can be rewarding and educational. A wide range of skills can be developed in the construction of a layout. Basic geology can be learned from landscape construction. Building architecture is studied as you decide the types of structures to be incorporated, and their use. Wiring the layout will instruct the hobbyist in the basics of electronics. History becomes important as you study the era you are modeling, and economics as you develop the industries served by the railroad. These and many other skills are involved as you develop and build the layout.

The first step will be to determine the scale of model train you want to work with. There are three commonly available scales, each offering distinct advantages and disadvantages. This step may be skipped if you have inherited a nice train from somewhere, and want to build a layout to run it on.

O gauge is the largest of the common indoor toy train scales, Lionel being the oldest and most popular of the trains available in this scale. Using Lionel creates a more toy-like train layout. The numerous operating accessories can make a fantasy-like setting. The layout and accessories take up more space than other scales, so if you don't have a lot of space, 027 may not be the best choice. An interesting collection of cars and accessories can be formed from creations by Lionel, K-Line and other manufacturers.

The most popular scale by far is called HO scale. More accessories are available for HO than for all other scales combined. It's about half the size of 027 and much more realistic. Cities, industries, and other features can be accurately modeled in HO scale. Sound systems can be incorporated to add to the fun. In HO, just about any type of plan is possible.

If space is limited, you can plan an N scale layout. The trains are about half the size of HO, so a nice railroad can be built in a relatively small space. N scale is the least popular of the major scales, but the advent of E-Z track has caused an explosion in sales of these neat little toy trains. The layouts are pretty cool, and can be tucked into odd corners of your home.

After you have chosen the scale you want to work in, then you must choose an era. Accessories, trains, rolling stock, buildings, etc., can be found for just about any historical era you choose to build. Old time layouts can have operating steam engines and other colorful accessories to add flavor to the layout. Research old photo, maps, etc. to accurately model the site of your choice. Modern layouts are more common, and are a little easier to research. Or you may just want to make something up.

Planning a model train layout is just the beginning of the fun. Toy trains are fascinating to work with through all phases of the layout construction.

Choosing a track plan iss covered in the next column - The Morning After - What To Do With Your New Train Set. Some really neat layouts can be found in layout books, or be creative - make one up! The key is to build what you like and have fun!

© 2012 Hobby Hobnob

A Look At the Modern Electric Toy Train

Friday, May 18, 2007

Homemade Candle Making

Homemade Candle Making

[caption id="attachment_557" align="alignleft" width="160" caption="Homemade Candle Making"]Homemade Candle Making[/caption]

The candle maker was an essential part of village life for thousands of years, and the candle has played an important role in our society. In an age of electric lights, candles are no longer a fundamental need, but they still play a therapeutic role in our society. The candle provides light, fragrance, and a classic atmosphere to our homes, businesses, and places of worship.

Homemade Candle making is a fascinating hobby for those who choose to pursue it. The hobbyist can craft many types of candles right in the home. This article will cover some simple candle making tips and ideas for home candle making. There are simple candles which can be made in just a few minutes, suitable as a project for children. Modern materials have simplified the candle making process so that nice candles can be melted, wicked, and poured in under an hour. You will find many good books on the subject at your craft or hobby store.

The easiest candles for you to make are ‘wax crystal’ candles. Wax crystals are granulated wax which has color, hardener, luster, and mold release added to them. Because they have a consistency similar to sand, they can be poured easily. Use them as is to create ‘sand art’ type candles in clear glass containers. Use a center burning wick and the design is unaffected as the candle burns. Replace the wick and crystals periodically, and you can keep the candle burning indefinitely. These candles make great projects for kids because they involve no hot wax.

You can also make container or molded candles with the wax crystals. For container candles you can use any heat resistant container - candy tins, mugs, glasses, shells, or ceramic containers. You can scent theses candles with one of many fragrances.




If you use clear class containers for your candles, you can pour layers of different colors wax to create unique, color coordinated candles.

Free standing candles are made with molds, of which there are many different sizes and shapes. You will find pillar, globe, square, floater, and votive candle molds. Seasonal shapes are also available.

Molded candles may be decorated and scented in many different ways. They may be painted using stencils or free hand, using acrylic paint. Rub on decals or stickers can also be used to decorate the candle. Using the art of decoupage, candles may be decorated with cards, photos, beads, seeds, dried flowers, ribbon, or any other material which you can think of. This creates unlimited possibilities for candles as gifts, or to accent your home.

You can use a combination of methods to decorate the candle. You can use rub-on borders to edge the candle, decoupage a photo on the side, and use dried flowers, stickers, ribbon, or beads to accent the candle. The key is to have fun and do what you like.

These are just a few tips for making homemade candles. Hopefully there will be an idea or two here which you can use for making candles in your home.


Homemade Candle Making Ideas - Tips For The Home

A Brief History Of Candle Making

Instructions - Homemade Candle Making Craft

Candle Making Equipment

Back To Hobbies


Wednesday, April 25, 2007

A Brief History Of Candle Making

A Brief History Of Candle Making




Flip a switch and turn on a light! If there is one thing about modern life we really take for granted, it is indoor electric lighting. Imagine, if you will, a home in the Middle Ages. It is night, and the day’s hard work is done. A single candle lights the interior of the room. This candle provides light for the family’s night time activities. It occupies a distinguished position in human history. The candle is one of mankind’s earliest inventions. The history of candle making is a long and interesting story.

The candle uses wax as fuel to produce light. Once the wick of a candle is lighted, heat from the flame burns the wax, which flows into the wick by capillary action. It’s a simple device, and it ruled the night for thousands of years.

Archeological digs have unearthed candlesticks in Egyptian and Cretan sites dating to about 3000 BC. Before this the Egyptians used a device called a rush light. A rush light was made from the pithy core of the rush plant, which was soaked in tallow and burned for light.

Tallow was the main ingredient of candles for thousands of years of our history. Tallow is processed from the fat of cattle and sheep. These candles emit a very disagreeable odor and a lot of smoke when burned. They were used to light homes, temples, and meeting places. Travelers used them to light their way.

It is the Romans who probably learned how to make candles from beeswax. Beeswax is superior to tallow because it burns much cleaner, and is odorless. But it was also very expensive, so its use was limited to the nobility and the Church.

American Colonial women discovered that a superior wax could be extracted from the bayberry. This wax was very clean burning and produced a sweet aroma. The difficulty in extracting the wax from the berry prevented it from replacing the more readily available tallow.

Whales have the bad fortune to have a substance called spermaceti in their enormous bodies. Spermaceti produces a very high quality wax which makes candles superior to both tallow and beeswax. Since it is harder than these other waxes, the candles don’t bend in hot weather, a common problem for tallow and beeswax candles. By the 1700’s the whaling industry was supplying this highly valued substance for use.

Candle making has a history of being a labor intensive business. Wax has to be melted and hand poured into molds. Taper candles, the earliest candles made, must be dipped many times to make a candle. Molded candle production became a lot easier in 1834 because of a gentleman by the name of Joseph Morgan. Mr. Morgan invented a candle molding machine. This machine consisted of a mold which had a movable cylinder for its bottom. Wax was poured into the mold and allowed to cool. The cylinder bottom was then moved up, forcing the hardened wax candles out of the top. Continuous production of candles was now possible.



The best material for making candles was developed near the end of the candles long reign. Automobiles were becoming popular in the late 1800’s, and the need for petroleum to fuel the new internal combustion engine became great. The leftover residues of petroleum production produced a substance called paraffin. It was ideal for the production of candles, as it was economical, clean burning, and odorless. It’s chief drawback was its low melting point, which would have caused problems in warm weather. The independent discovery of stearic acid solved this problem. Added to paraffin, it hardened the candle, and slowed its burn rate. Paraffin/stearine candles soon became standard, totally replacing the tallow candles place in history.

Thomas Edison’s creation of the light bulb in 1879 ended our dependency on the candle as a light source. The candle soon passed from necessity to ornamental. Candles are still used as ceremonial and decorative lights. Skilled crafts people still make candles to light and perfume our homes.

Candle making has been an essential craft in our history. Candles lit our ancestors homes and provided light for sacred ceremonies. Their manufacture contributed to the economy of the civilizations they illuminated. Today, candle making is a craft practiced by many artisans providing a link to our distant past.

The next article introduces some of the equipment needed for this fascinating craft.



Back to Homemade Candle Making


Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Pine Wood Derby Car Kits and Blocks


Building a pine wood derby car seems like a daunting task to the novice. But it can actually be a fun and easy project. When searching for a car to build you will find three basic types of pine cars to build - unfinished blocks, precut blocks, and deluxe kits. Rough cut unfinished blocks for those who want a bit more of a challenge building the pine wood derby car. The blocks must be cut, shaped, carved, sanded, painted and decaled. Most of the blocks have the wheel slots already cut in the botton of the block. You will find both rectangular blocks and wedge shaped ones. Precut pinewood derby body blocks make it easy to build a pine car! These pinewood derby body blocks are rough cut blocks for racers who lack the tools or skills to cut a block from a block of wood. Wheels, axles, other parts are not included. The block must be sanded before finishing. An assortment of styles are available, most need only light shaping with sand paper before finishing. Pine Car Deluxe Car Kits contain unfinished pinewood derby car designs, rub on decals, incremental weights, wheels & axels, cast metal custom parts such as headers, engines and pipes. Step by step illustrated instructions for assembly and finishing include complete derby race specifications. Simply sand and finish any of the six pinewood car shapes with minimum tools and supervision. Wheels and axels should all be similiar on all cars in a race. Official BSA wheels and axels will fit the cars. Back to Pine Wood Derby

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Pinewood Derby Car - Great Group Kid's Project


Pinewood Derby Car - Great Group Kid's Project

All you need to know about the pine wood derby car



Building and racing pine wood derby cars is an event sponsored by many Cub Scout troops. But it is an interesting hobby which can be done by anyone who likes to carve wood and has an interest in cars. Racing the pine car can be a fun event for any youth group or a fun activity for the neighborhood kids. With the right planning, materials, and information, building the pinewood derby car can be a fun and rewarding experience.



The pine wood derby car is an excellent activity for cub scouts or other youth groups. It is an ideal father/son project as well.

Building The Pinewood Derby Car

Pinewood Derby Catalog

Pine Wood Derby Car Kits and Blocks

Back To Hobbies

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Steps In Building A Plastic Model Kit

Model Building Hobby Knife

Building plastic models is a fascinating hobby in which you will find just about any model classification to suit your interests. There are many types of models from which to choose - cars, boats, airplanes, to mention just a few.

Whatever model you choose to build, the basic steps to successfully construct it are the same. Master the steps, and anyone can build really nice models.

The first step is - and get ready for this - Read The Instructions! Make sure you understand what's involved before you start building. Assemble the tools and supplies you will need to complete the model. Some items needed for successful assembly - paint, model glue, hobby knife, tweezers, toothpicks, sprue or fingernail clippers, building board, wax paper, paper towels, paintbrush, and paint thinner. Choose a work area out of the way of other activities. The model will require a little time to build, and you don't want it in the way of other activities. Alternatively, assemble on a building board which can be moved under a bed or other storage area between building sessions.

Open the parts bags, and carefully spread them out on a flat surface near your work area - do not cut any parts from sprues at this time! The sprue many times has identifying numbers on it to help you identify the part. Using the parts list included in the instructions, find and identify each part. If any are missing, call the manufacturer. Information you will need is the model number and part number. The model number can be found on the side of the box, and the part number is found on the plans. Most model manufacturers have 800 numbers listed in the plans to call for missing parts. The part will be shipped to you free, but may take a couple of weeks.

Now, carefully wash the model in warm water in which a small amount of dish soap has been dissolved. This is to remove the mold release manufacturers use to pop the model parts from the mold during the manufacturing process. If it's not removed, paint and glue may not adhere properly to the model. Rinse and allow the parts to air dry or dry with a hair dryer set on LOW if you want to begin work immediately.

If you are going to paint the model, now is the time to decide which parts to paint before assembly, and which parts should be assembled first, and then painted. Study the instructions to help with this step. A good rule of thumb is - small parts are usually best painted on the sprue, and larger parts and body parts are best painted after assembly. Most models are easier to build if they are built and painted in steps. Motors and other small assemblies should be assembled and painted, then installed in the model frame. The model body is assembled, painted and the smaller parts added. Think of the completed model as a series of small models which must be painted and assembled first. These smaller models are then used to construct the larger, finished model.

Once the plastic model is completed, the decals are applied. Cut them singly from the sheet and apply where the instructions depict. A drop of water placed on the model before the decal is placed will make it easier to move the decal into final position.

It's important to use the proper materials when painting and gluing the model. Model paints are formulated for plastic models. The pigments in these paints are also ground extremely fine, to give them scale thickness. Other paints will cause the model to be out of scale, or worse, possibly 'melt' the plastic because the solvents in it are not compatible with the plastic.

Model cements are best to use, because they will melt the plastic together, creating a stronger bond. Model cements are available in an odor free, non-toxic formula for younger children.

Tools are just as important in model building as they are in any other endeavor. Use a hobby knife, fingernail clipper, or sprue cutter to cut parts from sprue - don't just tear them off. A neat cut will be achieved with one of these tools. Test all parts before assembly - trim flash and shave parts carefully as needed to ensure a perfect fit. Spread glue on parts with a paintbrush, or toothpick for an even coat. Use glue sparingly to cut down on sanding after assembly and before painting.

Now it's time to display the completed model! Car models may be displayed in clear acrylic model cases. These protect the model from dust and inquisitive fingers. The cases stack for easy storage. Airplane models may be hung from the ceiling in realistic dives, or placed on the display stands which come with many of them. Boat models frequently are too big for display cases, but usually come with their own display stands. All plastic models may be displayed in a diorama. This is a scene constructed specifically for the model, to place it in a realistic setting. Back to Building Plastic Model Kits