Homemade Candle Making Ideas - Tips For The Home © 2012
Homemade Candle Making
The candle maker was an essential part of village life for thousands of years, and the candle has played an important role in our society. In an age of electric lights, candles are no longer a fundamental need, but they still play a therapeutic role in our society. The candle provides light, fragrance, and a classic atmosphere to our homes, businesses, and places of worship.
Homemade Candle making is a fascinating hobby for those who choose to pursue it. The hobbyist can craft many types of candles right in the home. This article will cover some simple candle making tips and ideas for home candle making. There are simple candles which can be made in just a few minutes, suitable as a project for children. Modern materials have simplified the candle making process so that nice candles can be melted, wicked, and poured in under an hour. You will find many good books on the subject at your craft or hobby store.
The easiest candles for you to make are ‘wax crystal’ candles. Wax crystals are granulated wax which has color, hardener, luster, and mold release added to them. Because they have a consistency similar to sand, they can be poured easily. Use them as is to create ‘sand art’ type candles in clear glass containers. Use a center burning wick and the design is unaffected as the candle burns. Replace the wick and crystals periodically, and you can keep the candle burning indefinitely. These candles make great projects for kids because they involve no hot wax.
You can also make container or molded candles with the wax crystals. For container candles you can use any heat resistant container - candy tins, mugs, glasses, shells, or ceramic containers. You can scent theses candles with one of many fragrances.
If you use clear class containers for your candles, you can pour layers of different colors wax to create unique, color coordinated candles.
Free standing candles are made with molds, of which there are many different sizes and shapes. You will find pillar, globe, square, floater, and votive candle molds. Seasonal shapes are also available.
Molded candles may be decorated and scented in many different ways. They may be painted using stencils or free hand, using acrylic paint. Rub on decals or stickers can also be used to decorate the candle. Using the art of decoupage, candles may be decorated with cards, photos, beads, seeds, dried flowers, ribbon, or any other material which you can think of. This creates unlimited possibilities for candles as gifts, or to accent your home.
You can use a combination of methods to decorate the candle. You can use rub-on borders to edge the candle, decoupage a photo on the side, and use dried flowers, stickers, ribbon, or beads to accent the candle. The key is to have fun and do what you like.
These are just a few tips for making homemade candles. Hopefully there will be an idea or two here which you can use for making candles in your home.
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Hobby Hobnob
Basic information about various hobby and craft topics.
Friday, February 10, 2012
Thursday, February 09, 2012
Instructions - Homemade Candle Making Craft
Instructions - Homemade Candle Making Craft
There are a number of procedures for making homemade candles. Some of the more popular methods include wax crystal candles, paraffin candles, and gel candles. Using these methods, you can craft many different types of candles. Included in this articles are basic instructions and techniques for these types of candles.
Wax crystals are the most versatile candle making medium, allowing you to make either melted container or molded candles, or simpler sand art candles. Since wax crystals are loose, they can be poured like sand into a container. Insert a wick into the center of the container, and light the candle. This candle may be scented by stirring in a quantity of liquid fragrance after the candle is poured.
Note: Parafin is a petroleum product and is VERY flammable, so be very careful with the wax around any heat source.
Instructions For Making Home Made Candles From Wax Crystals
Container and molded candles may also be easily made from the wax crystals. The wax crystals are poured into a small metal sauce pan or boiler bag. This is placed into a bigger pan which has been about half filled with water. This water is placed on the kitchen range, and boiled until the wax melts. Now you may add fragrance wafers, Stirring in as it melts.
While the wax is melting, prepare the container or mold. For containers, insert a wick into the wick anchor, press tabs down securing the wick and place centering on the bottom of the container. Lay a piece of balsa wood across the top of the container. Pin the wick to the balsa strip with a dressmakers pin, allowing very little slack in the wick.
Mold preparation depends on the type of mold you have. Acrylic molds have a hole at the bottom. Pull the wick through this hole, and secure on the bottom with a generous amount of modeling clay. Seal well! Pin the wick to a balsa strip at the top in the manner described for container candles. Snap molds consist of two halves which are snapped securely together. The wick is anchored by a special indentation at the bottom of the mold into which the wick is inserted before the two halves are assembled. Secure the wick at the top in the manner already described. Tray molds are the easiest to use. Pour the wax into the mold and insert the wick after the wax has cooled somewhat. Pop the candle from the mold after it cools.
For the best candles, the wax should be about 160 degrees. Use a candle making thermometer to measure the temperature. Carefully pour the wax into the container or mold. Keep a little wax back. After the wax cools, there will be a depression in the center of the candle. Melt the wax you saved back again, and top up the container.
You can pour multi-color candles by using more than one color of wax. Prepare the mold or clear glass container. Melt the wax one color at a time and pour, allowing time for the previous layer to cool before the next layer is poured. This is necessary to prevent color ‘bleed’ from one layer to another.
Allow the wax to cool completely to make removal from mold easier. Pull firmly up on wick, and squeeze the sides of the mold to loosen wax. Snap molds should separate easily. Seam marks can be removed by polishing with an old nylon stocking.
Basic Technique For Homemade Candles From Parafin Slabs
Candles made from raw paraffin must have the other ingredients added to them. Melt the paraffin using the double boiler method described for wax crystals, after breaking into smaller chunks. After melting, add colorant, fragrance, stearine, and luster in the amounts indicated by the manufacturer. Candles made this way are usually superior to wax crystal candles, but are a little more trouble to make.
Molded can be used as is, or you may decorate them in various ways. If you wish to paint or decorate the candle, first apply two or three coats of an acrylic sealer. After this has dried, acrylic paints, stickers, or rub on decals may be applied. Decoupage methods may also be used. Modge Podge is used to adhere photos, cloth, ribbon, greeting cards, dried flowers, seeds, herbs, beads - the list is endless.
The basic procedures for making home made candles are not hard. You just need to make sure you carefully follow the instructions and develope your technique through practice. The instructions for the process of making candles in the home are not complicated or lengthy. A few basic steps can allow the home crafter to make candles like a pro.
Back To Hobbies
There are a number of procedures for making homemade candles. Some of the more popular methods include wax crystal candles, paraffin candles, and gel candles. Using these methods, you can craft many different types of candles. Included in this articles are basic instructions and techniques for these types of candles.
Wax crystals are the most versatile candle making medium, allowing you to make either melted container or molded candles, or simpler sand art candles. Since wax crystals are loose, they can be poured like sand into a container. Insert a wick into the center of the container, and light the candle. This candle may be scented by stirring in a quantity of liquid fragrance after the candle is poured.
Note: Parafin is a petroleum product and is VERY flammable, so be very careful with the wax around any heat source.
Instructions For Making Home Made Candles From Wax Crystals
Container and molded candles may also be easily made from the wax crystals. The wax crystals are poured into a small metal sauce pan or boiler bag. This is placed into a bigger pan which has been about half filled with water. This water is placed on the kitchen range, and boiled until the wax melts. Now you may add fragrance wafers, Stirring in as it melts.
While the wax is melting, prepare the container or mold. For containers, insert a wick into the wick anchor, press tabs down securing the wick and place centering on the bottom of the container. Lay a piece of balsa wood across the top of the container. Pin the wick to the balsa strip with a dressmakers pin, allowing very little slack in the wick.
Mold preparation depends on the type of mold you have. Acrylic molds have a hole at the bottom. Pull the wick through this hole, and secure on the bottom with a generous amount of modeling clay. Seal well! Pin the wick to a balsa strip at the top in the manner described for container candles. Snap molds consist of two halves which are snapped securely together. The wick is anchored by a special indentation at the bottom of the mold into which the wick is inserted before the two halves are assembled. Secure the wick at the top in the manner already described. Tray molds are the easiest to use. Pour the wax into the mold and insert the wick after the wax has cooled somewhat. Pop the candle from the mold after it cools.
For the best candles, the wax should be about 160 degrees. Use a candle making thermometer to measure the temperature. Carefully pour the wax into the container or mold. Keep a little wax back. After the wax cools, there will be a depression in the center of the candle. Melt the wax you saved back again, and top up the container.
You can pour multi-color candles by using more than one color of wax. Prepare the mold or clear glass container. Melt the wax one color at a time and pour, allowing time for the previous layer to cool before the next layer is poured. This is necessary to prevent color ‘bleed’ from one layer to another.
Allow the wax to cool completely to make removal from mold easier. Pull firmly up on wick, and squeeze the sides of the mold to loosen wax. Snap molds should separate easily. Seam marks can be removed by polishing with an old nylon stocking.
Basic Technique For Homemade Candles From Parafin Slabs
Candles made from raw paraffin must have the other ingredients added to them. Melt the paraffin using the double boiler method described for wax crystals, after breaking into smaller chunks. After melting, add colorant, fragrance, stearine, and luster in the amounts indicated by the manufacturer. Candles made this way are usually superior to wax crystal candles, but are a little more trouble to make.
Molded can be used as is, or you may decorate them in various ways. If you wish to paint or decorate the candle, first apply two or three coats of an acrylic sealer. After this has dried, acrylic paints, stickers, or rub on decals may be applied. Decoupage methods may also be used. Modge Podge is used to adhere photos, cloth, ribbon, greeting cards, dried flowers, seeds, herbs, beads - the list is endless.
The basic procedures for making home made candles are not hard. You just need to make sure you carefully follow the instructions and develope your technique through practice. The instructions for the process of making candles in the home are not complicated or lengthy. A few basic steps can allow the home crafter to make candles like a pro.
Back To Hobbies
Wednesday, February 08, 2012
Candle Making Equipment
Candle Making Equipment
Aspiring candle makers have three candle making methods to choose from. You can make them from ‘scratch’, use wax crystals, or utilize the new gel candle method. This article describes the equipment needed to make candles.
The best quality candles are made from raw paraffin which comes in one or ten pound slabs. Color, luster, hardener, and scent are added to the wax before pouring.
Stearine, the ingredient which hardens the paraffin, comes in powder form, as do the luster crystals. Opaque crystals impart a glossy sheen to the candle. Clear crystals
are used to make glow candles luminescence.
There are two types of wicks available in three sizes for candles one inch to six inches in diameter. Use the wick size suitable for the diameter of candle you are making. The two types of wick are braided and wire core. Use braided wicks for dipped and free standing candles and wire core for container candles.
Wick anchors are used to hold the wick secure to the bottom of container candles. The wick is inserted in to hole in the center of the anchor, and the tabs pressed down securely with a screwdriver. The tabs may be reused.
Raw paraffin is white. You must add dye to get colored candles. There are many colors to choose from, so you can make the candle just about any color you desire. Dye cakes are divided into six squares. Each square will dye about five pounds of wax.
Candle scents are also packaged in squares which are divided into six wafers. The individual wafers will perfume about five pounds of wax. More or less to your desire.
A newer and easier method of making candles is to use wax crystals. Wax crystals are packaged in twelve ounce bags, and are the consistency of sand. They can be melted, like paraffin, or poured into a heat resistant container and used as is for easy wax crystal candles. All ingredients have been added, so all you have to do is scent them, so a minimum of equipment is required to make this type.
To make molded and container candles melt the crystals in plastic boil bags, add fragrance, and pour into a container or mold of your choice.
Use the same equipment for these candle as described for the paraffin candles.
Gel candles are the newest innovation in candle making. A heat resistant kitchen pan is used to melt the gel. The gel melts at a lower temperature and in less time than wax crystals or wax. Melt the gel and pour into a container. These candles cannot be used in a mold. Clean up the gel with ammonia.
Specialized molds for candle making are heat resistant plastic or metal material. There are many shapes and sizes available including cylinder, round, votive, and floaters. Containers for candles can be of any heat resistant material. You may use metal, glass, or ceramic containers for your candles.
You will also need a soft wooden strip, like balsa, and a pin. This is used to secure the wick at the top of the container or mold.
Like any other hobby, candle making has its own specialized tools and equipment. To make molded and container candles, you will need something to melt the wax in. Use two metal sauce pans - one must be small enough to fit inside the other. Water is placed in the large pan, wax in the inner smaller one. Place on the kitchen range and boil the water in the large pan until the wax is melted. Boil bags may also be used to melt the wax. These are filled with wax and placed in a water filled sauce pan and boiled until the wax is melted.
This is a basic listing of the equipment needed for candle making.
Back to Homemade Candle Making
Aspiring candle makers have three candle making methods to choose from. You can make them from ‘scratch’, use wax crystals, or utilize the new gel candle method. This article describes the equipment needed to make candles.
The best quality candles are made from raw paraffin which comes in one or ten pound slabs. Color, luster, hardener, and scent are added to the wax before pouring.
Stearine, the ingredient which hardens the paraffin, comes in powder form, as do the luster crystals. Opaque crystals impart a glossy sheen to the candle. Clear crystals
are used to make glow candles luminescence.
There are two types of wicks available in three sizes for candles one inch to six inches in diameter. Use the wick size suitable for the diameter of candle you are making. The two types of wick are braided and wire core. Use braided wicks for dipped and free standing candles and wire core for container candles.
Wick anchors are used to hold the wick secure to the bottom of container candles. The wick is inserted in to hole in the center of the anchor, and the tabs pressed down securely with a screwdriver. The tabs may be reused.
Raw paraffin is white. You must add dye to get colored candles. There are many colors to choose from, so you can make the candle just about any color you desire. Dye cakes are divided into six squares. Each square will dye about five pounds of wax.
Candle scents are also packaged in squares which are divided into six wafers. The individual wafers will perfume about five pounds of wax. More or less to your desire.
A newer and easier method of making candles is to use wax crystals. Wax crystals are packaged in twelve ounce bags, and are the consistency of sand. They can be melted, like paraffin, or poured into a heat resistant container and used as is for easy wax crystal candles. All ingredients have been added, so all you have to do is scent them, so a minimum of equipment is required to make this type.
To make molded and container candles melt the crystals in plastic boil bags, add fragrance, and pour into a container or mold of your choice.
Use the same equipment for these candle as described for the paraffin candles.
Gel candles are the newest innovation in candle making. A heat resistant kitchen pan is used to melt the gel. The gel melts at a lower temperature and in less time than wax crystals or wax. Melt the gel and pour into a container. These candles cannot be used in a mold. Clean up the gel with ammonia.
Specialized molds for candle making are heat resistant plastic or metal material. There are many shapes and sizes available including cylinder, round, votive, and floaters. Containers for candles can be of any heat resistant material. You may use metal, glass, or ceramic containers for your candles.
You will also need a soft wooden strip, like balsa, and a pin. This is used to secure the wick at the top of the container or mold.
Like any other hobby, candle making has its own specialized tools and equipment. To make molded and container candles, you will need something to melt the wax in. Use two metal sauce pans - one must be small enough to fit inside the other. Water is placed in the large pan, wax in the inner smaller one. Place on the kitchen range and boil the water in the large pan until the wax is melted. Boil bags may also be used to melt the wax. These are filled with wax and placed in a water filled sauce pan and boiled until the wax is melted.
This is a basic listing of the equipment needed for candle making.
Back to Homemade Candle Making
Friday, February 03, 2012
American Civil War Toy Soldier - Metal And Plastic
American Civil War Toy Soldier - Metal And Plastic
Civil war toy soldiers replicate the honorable men who sacrificed much for their cause.
Plastic Toy Soldiers
The American Civil War was a tragic episode in our nation’s history. Great armies from the North and South clashed in bloody battles with thousands killed and wounded. Union and Confederate soldiers both believed in the rightness of their cause and many gave their lives in defense of it. It is estimated that there were Union casualties of 359,528 and Confederate casualties of 258,000 during that conflict, making it by far the bloodiest war in American History. The Civil War Soldier endured much, suffered, bled and died in great numbers.
Civil war toy soldiers replicate these honorable men, both Union and Confederate, and seek to commemorate their sacrifices. There are many fine collections of civil war soldiers manufactured by a multitude of manufacturers. A few will be outlined here.
William Britains
This company has a large selection of 1/32 scale miniature Civil War toy soldiers of exceptional quality. The selection includes Union and confederate civil war soldier figures, civil war landmark replicas, and military props such as cannon, limbers, etc. William Britain American Civil War Toy soldier are pewter, very finely detailed and are lead free. William Britains is an English company which began making toy soldiers in 1893 and has continued producing toy soldiers ever since.
Conte Collectables
Founder Richard Conte began this company in 1999 making 1/32 metal toy soldiers with a matte finish. The American Civil War toy soldiers in the collection are very well detailed and nicely finished. The sets include a number of Union and Confederate toy soldier replicas, Civil War leaders, and accessories to the soldiers sets. These are the same scale as William Britain sets and the two will complement each other.
Forward March
Forward March is owned by Prescott’s Military Miniatures which was begun in 1980 by the Walker Family. An ancestor of the family was Colnel William Prescott, who gave the command at Bunker Hill "Don’t fire until you see the whites of their eyes". Accordingly, all the toy soldiers produced by this company have the whites of their eyes painted in. Forward March was launched in 2000 with the goal of producing high end metal toy soldiers. The civil war toy soldiers in their offerings are 1/32 scale spin cast metals. The masters are designed by the best sculptors and are hand painted by the owner Richard Walker. The American Civil War toy soldier series’ are limited in edition and very highly sought after.
King and Country
From Hong Kong, King and Country manufactures American Civil War toy soldiers in 1/32 scale metal scenes and figures.
BMC
BMC manufactures inexpensive plastic Civil war toy soldiers which ideal as children’s toys and for use in school projects. The figures are 1/32 scale, and are molded in a single color. Union civil war soldiers are blue, Confederate civil war soldiers are gray.
American civil war toy soldiers are produced in great variety for both collectors and children. Union and Confederate soldiers are both available in quality fine enough to honor the sacrifices made by the soldiers of the American Civil War.
Civil war toy soldiers replicate the honorable men who sacrificed much for their cause.
Plastic Toy Soldiers
The American Civil War was a tragic episode in our nation’s history. Great armies from the North and South clashed in bloody battles with thousands killed and wounded. Union and Confederate soldiers both believed in the rightness of their cause and many gave their lives in defense of it. It is estimated that there were Union casualties of 359,528 and Confederate casualties of 258,000 during that conflict, making it by far the bloodiest war in American History. The Civil War Soldier endured much, suffered, bled and died in great numbers.
Civil war toy soldiers replicate these honorable men, both Union and Confederate, and seek to commemorate their sacrifices. There are many fine collections of civil war soldiers manufactured by a multitude of manufacturers. A few will be outlined here.
William Britains
This company has a large selection of 1/32 scale miniature Civil War toy soldiers of exceptional quality. The selection includes Union and confederate civil war soldier figures, civil war landmark replicas, and military props such as cannon, limbers, etc. William Britain American Civil War Toy soldier are pewter, very finely detailed and are lead free. William Britains is an English company which began making toy soldiers in 1893 and has continued producing toy soldiers ever since.
Conte Collectables
Founder Richard Conte began this company in 1999 making 1/32 metal toy soldiers with a matte finish. The American Civil War toy soldiers in the collection are very well detailed and nicely finished. The sets include a number of Union and Confederate toy soldier replicas, Civil War leaders, and accessories to the soldiers sets. These are the same scale as William Britain sets and the two will complement each other.
Forward March
Forward March is owned by Prescott’s Military Miniatures which was begun in 1980 by the Walker Family. An ancestor of the family was Colnel William Prescott, who gave the command at Bunker Hill "Don’t fire until you see the whites of their eyes". Accordingly, all the toy soldiers produced by this company have the whites of their eyes painted in. Forward March was launched in 2000 with the goal of producing high end metal toy soldiers. The civil war toy soldiers in their offerings are 1/32 scale spin cast metals. The masters are designed by the best sculptors and are hand painted by the owner Richard Walker. The American Civil War toy soldier series’ are limited in edition and very highly sought after.
King and Country
From Hong Kong, King and Country manufactures American Civil War toy soldiers in 1/32 scale metal scenes and figures.
BMC
BMC manufactures inexpensive plastic Civil war toy soldiers which ideal as children’s toys and for use in school projects. The figures are 1/32 scale, and are molded in a single color. Union civil war soldiers are blue, Confederate civil war soldiers are gray.
American civil war toy soldiers are produced in great variety for both collectors and children. Union and Confederate soldiers are both available in quality fine enough to honor the sacrifices made by the soldiers of the American Civil War.
Thursday, February 02, 2012
Jewelry Clasps
Jewelry Clasps - Barrel - Lobster Claw - Magnetic
Jewelry clasps are used to hold a necklace, bracelet or other jewelry project together. There are several different types of clasps used for this purpose. The clasps are usually made from metal and can be nickel-silver, silver, or gold plated.
Barrel clasps are tubular shaped and can be used for either bracelets or necklaces. They have a loop on each end to which the stringing material is tied securely. This is one of the easier clasps to open and close jewelry. A simple twisting action opens and closes them.
The toggle clasp consists of a jump ring and another "T" shaped component. The "T" slips through the jump ring, the arms of the "T" holding the jewelry together.
The hook and eye clasp is the strongest, easiest to fasten clasp in jewelry making. It consists of two parts, the figure 8 portions which is tied to one end of the necklace or bracelet, and the hook, which is tied to the other. The hook then loops through the other end of the figure 8, holding the jewelry securely together.
The lobster claw clasp is so named because the clasp sort of resembles a lobster claw. It holds necklaces and bracelets firmly together when used with a jump ring.
Snap clasps are best used for bracelets. They open and close, sort of like a hinge. A trigger releases them, and they will not open unless this trigger is depressed, securely holding the jewelry ends together.
Magnetic clasps are great for children, or adults who have difficulty using their fingers. This is a two part clasp, both of which have a strong magnet enclosed. The clasps hold together firmly, securing the jewelry together.
There is a wide variety of jewelry clasps available for just about any bead craft project. Barrel and lobster claw are the most popular but the other types may work equally as well.
Back to Bead Crafts
Jewelry clasps are used to hold a necklace, bracelet or other jewelry project together. There are several different types of clasps used for this purpose. The clasps are usually made from metal and can be nickel-silver, silver, or gold plated.
Barrel clasps are tubular shaped and can be used for either bracelets or necklaces. They have a loop on each end to which the stringing material is tied securely. This is one of the easier clasps to open and close jewelry. A simple twisting action opens and closes them.
The toggle clasp consists of a jump ring and another "T" shaped component. The "T" slips through the jump ring, the arms of the "T" holding the jewelry together.
The hook and eye clasp is the strongest, easiest to fasten clasp in jewelry making. It consists of two parts, the figure 8 portions which is tied to one end of the necklace or bracelet, and the hook, which is tied to the other. The hook then loops through the other end of the figure 8, holding the jewelry securely together.
The lobster claw clasp is so named because the clasp sort of resembles a lobster claw. It holds necklaces and bracelets firmly together when used with a jump ring.
Snap clasps are best used for bracelets. They open and close, sort of like a hinge. A trigger releases them, and they will not open unless this trigger is depressed, securely holding the jewelry ends together.
Magnetic clasps are great for children, or adults who have difficulty using their fingers. This is a two part clasp, both of which have a strong magnet enclosed. The clasps hold together firmly, securing the jewelry together.
There is a wide variety of jewelry clasps available for just about any bead craft project. Barrel and lobster claw are the most popular but the other types may work equally as well.
Back to Bead Crafts
Wednesday, February 01, 2012
Bead Types and Styles
Bead Types and Styles
Types And Styles Of Beads
Pony Beads
Good bead for childrens crafts, as the beads are large and the hole is big enough for larger cords suitable for small hands. Use for ‘beady babies’, bracelets, necklaces.
Seed Beads
Very small bead used for bead loom projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery. Glass seed beads are best for color and quality. A multitude of colors is available in this type of bead.
Rocailles
Similiar in size and shape to seed beads, rocailles are more ‘metallic’ in color. The beads impart a ‘shimmery’ quality to projects. Use for bead loam projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery.
E Beads
Also called Giant Seed Beads. E beads are about 3 - 4 times larger than seed beads and are similiar in shape and color. they can also be used for bead loom projects. Good bead type for earings, bracelets, sewing
crafts, and other jewelery projects.
Alphabet Beads
This type of bead has a letter of the alphabet, or a number on them. They are great for making personalized bead projects. The beads are availabe at TrainTown in individual letters, making
projects easy to assemble needed items.
Facet Beads
Round, multifaced beads are availble in a variety of sizes from 6mm to 25mm and a multitude of colors. Used for necklaces, ornaments, and other craft projects.
Paddle Wheel Beads
Paddle wheels are sometimes called windmill beads. Shaped like a paddle wheel, they are available in a variety of colors and sizes. Used mostly for craft projects and ornament.
There are many different types of beads available for a variety of uses.
Back to Bead Crafts
Types And Styles Of Beads
Pony Beads
Good bead for childrens crafts, as the beads are large and the hole is big enough for larger cords suitable for small hands. Use for ‘beady babies’, bracelets, necklaces.
Seed Beads
Very small bead used for bead loom projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery. Glass seed beads are best for color and quality. A multitude of colors is available in this type of bead.
Rocailles
Similiar in size and shape to seed beads, rocailles are more ‘metallic’ in color. The beads impart a ‘shimmery’ quality to projects. Use for bead loam projects, sewing crafts, and jewelery.
E Beads
Also called Giant Seed Beads. E beads are about 3 - 4 times larger than seed beads and are similiar in shape and color. they can also be used for bead loom projects. Good bead type for earings, bracelets, sewing
crafts, and other jewelery projects.
Alphabet Beads
This type of bead has a letter of the alphabet, or a number on them. They are great for making personalized bead projects. The beads are availabe at TrainTown in individual letters, making
projects easy to assemble needed items.
Facet Beads
Round, multifaced beads are availble in a variety of sizes from 6mm to 25mm and a multitude of colors. Used for necklaces, ornaments, and other craft projects.
Paddle Wheel Beads
Paddle wheels are sometimes called windmill beads. Shaped like a paddle wheel, they are available in a variety of colors and sizes. Used mostly for craft projects and ornament.
There are many different types of beads available for a variety of uses.
Back to Bead Crafts
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Beading With A Bead Weaving Loom
Add another dimension to your bead-working skills by learning to use a bead loom. American Indians use bead looms to create intricate bead designs for their clothing and for ceremonial purposes. Unique beadwork can be crafted by anyone to decorate clothing, belts, or jewelry.
Most bead-workers use seed beads for their designs on the bead loom. There is a myriad of colors available, either separately, or in economical multi-packs. Shimmery, jewel-like rocaailles may also be used to add a special touch to your design.
A beading needle is a necessity for this type of beadwork. Use a needle threader to thread the needle. Pick up the tiny seed beads with the tip of the needle and work into the design.
Strong, flexible thread is a requirement for the designs. Beginners should use white button and carpet thread, or beading thread. Clear nylon bead thread may also be used. the thread needs to be thin enough to pass several times through the hole in the bead.
The loom may be handmade if you wish. but since bead looms are generally quite inexpensive, it would be easier to purchase one to start with. If your hobby outgrows your loom, you can always build a bigger one to do larger designs.
Basic beading instructions are included with your loom. You can create your own designs after you get the hang of beading. It’s fun to personalize your own jewelry with the loom.
Also fun to make with seed beads and rocailles are Indian bead rings. these are made using bead wire instead of thread. Bracelets, fobs, brooches, and ornaments can be made using the same methods.
Bead flower necklaces or bracelets can also be made from seed beads, rocailles, and giant seed beads. Or use a combination of all three types for some strikingly original jewelry that you made yourself on your bead loom. Have fun!
Back to Bead Crafts
Most bead-workers use seed beads for their designs on the bead loom. There is a myriad of colors available, either separately, or in economical multi-packs. Shimmery, jewel-like rocaailles may also be used to add a special touch to your design.
A beading needle is a necessity for this type of beadwork. Use a needle threader to thread the needle. Pick up the tiny seed beads with the tip of the needle and work into the design.
Strong, flexible thread is a requirement for the designs. Beginners should use white button and carpet thread, or beading thread. Clear nylon bead thread may also be used. the thread needs to be thin enough to pass several times through the hole in the bead.
The loom may be handmade if you wish. but since bead looms are generally quite inexpensive, it would be easier to purchase one to start with. If your hobby outgrows your loom, you can always build a bigger one to do larger designs.
Basic beading instructions are included with your loom. You can create your own designs after you get the hang of beading. It’s fun to personalize your own jewelry with the loom.
Also fun to make with seed beads and rocailles are Indian bead rings. these are made using bead wire instead of thread. Bracelets, fobs, brooches, and ornaments can be made using the same methods.
Bead flower necklaces or bracelets can also be made from seed beads, rocailles, and giant seed beads. Or use a combination of all three types for some strikingly original jewelry that you made yourself on your bead loom. Have fun!
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Bead Loom and Bead Crafts
Bead crafts can be enjoyed by people of all ages. Small seed beads and rocailles can be worked into intricate bracelets, necklaces and other jewelery. Or can be used to create beautiful beadwork on clothing and leather goods. Kids also like to craft friendship bracelets and hairclips with them.
Larger pony beads are easy for small hands to craft into fun projects. Wood beads are also great craft projects for kids groups.
A bead loom is a device for creating intricate designs with seed beads. The beads are worked into a design using fine wire or thread to hold the design together. Neat designs can be made by a beginner. Skilled bead crafters can design and create quite exquisite patterns using these beads.
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Jewelry Clasps
Bead Types and Styles
Beading With A Bead Weaving Loom
Larger pony beads are easy for small hands to craft into fun projects. Wood beads are also great craft projects for kids groups.
A bead loom is a device for creating intricate designs with seed beads. The beads are worked into a design using fine wire or thread to hold the design together. Neat designs can be made by a beginner. Skilled bead crafters can design and create quite exquisite patterns using these beads.
Back to Hobby List
Jewelry Clasps
Bead Types and Styles
Beading With A Bead Weaving Loom
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Making Great Wine From Frozen Fruit Concentrates
If you have ever wanted to make your own wine but thought that making good wine was difficult, then think again. Making wine is easy, especially if you make it from frozen juice concentrates. You can make grape, apple, cranberry or any other kind of wine you like by just browsing a grocery store's freezer case.
Equipment you will need can be found in the kitchen. To make one gallon of wine you will need a plastic or glass gallon jug, two twelve ounce containers of frozen fruit concentrate, two pounds of sugar and a glass or plastic bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. In addition you will need some granulated yeast. Wine yeast, which may be sold in some specialty grocery stores works best, but you may use granulated bakers yeast if you wish.
First, place the frozen concentrate in the refrigerator to thaw out. It can be used frozen, but it is much easier to mix in the sugar syrup if it is thawed out.
Next you will want to get the yeast started. For one gallon, use one level teaspoon of the granulated yeast. Whatever yeast is left in the packet may be sealed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator until needed for the next batch of wine you make. Put two teaspoons of sugar in a glass of warm water and stir until it is dissolved. Then dump the yeast into the warm sugar water and stir well. Place this in a warm location until it starts to froth. This can take anywhere from a couple of hours to several hours, depending upon the temperature of the room and the freshness of the yeast.
After the yeast is started you may make the sugar into syrup for use in the wine. To make the syrup boil the two pounds of sugar in one half gallon of water, stirring often to keep the sugar from scorching. The sugar solution will clear when it is done. Take the syrup off the stove, cover and set aside until it is cool. Usually this will take a couple of hours, so by the time the starter is ready, the sugar syrup will also be cool enough to use.
Now you are ready to make the wine. In a one and a half gallon to two gallon bowl, pour the fruit concentrate. Now add the sugar syrup. Then add the fermenting wine yeast. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and leave this in a warm place for a few days. After a few hours the wine will begin to ferment. This ferment may be quite vigorous, so you will need to leave the wine in the bowl a few days so it doesn't overflow.
Once the ferment slows down, thoroughly clean a plastic or glass gallon jug. Using a plastic or glass kitchen funnel, pour the fermenting wine into the jug. Top up with cool tap water until the jar is a couple of inches from the top. Place a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar and secure with a rubber band. Place this in a cool, dark room. The ideal temperature is sixty to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The ferment will take approximately two months.
When the ferment is finished, siphon the finished wine into a second gallon jar using plastic tubing which is suitable for food use, being careful to not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the jug. The wine is now ready to drink, but will benefit from aging for several months to a year.
Good wine may be made in this way from frozen fruit concentrates quite easily and quickly. While not gourmet wine, it will be a delightful vin ordinaire which is quite economical to make. After you master it, you may experiment with different ingredients, yeasts and juices to make a wine more suitable to your tastes.
Equipment you will need can be found in the kitchen. To make one gallon of wine you will need a plastic or glass gallon jug, two twelve ounce containers of frozen fruit concentrate, two pounds of sugar and a glass or plastic bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. In addition you will need some granulated yeast. Wine yeast, which may be sold in some specialty grocery stores works best, but you may use granulated bakers yeast if you wish.
First, place the frozen concentrate in the refrigerator to thaw out. It can be used frozen, but it is much easier to mix in the sugar syrup if it is thawed out.
Next you will want to get the yeast started. For one gallon, use one level teaspoon of the granulated yeast. Whatever yeast is left in the packet may be sealed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator until needed for the next batch of wine you make. Put two teaspoons of sugar in a glass of warm water and stir until it is dissolved. Then dump the yeast into the warm sugar water and stir well. Place this in a warm location until it starts to froth. This can take anywhere from a couple of hours to several hours, depending upon the temperature of the room and the freshness of the yeast.
After the yeast is started you may make the sugar into syrup for use in the wine. To make the syrup boil the two pounds of sugar in one half gallon of water, stirring often to keep the sugar from scorching. The sugar solution will clear when it is done. Take the syrup off the stove, cover and set aside until it is cool. Usually this will take a couple of hours, so by the time the starter is ready, the sugar syrup will also be cool enough to use.
Now you are ready to make the wine. In a one and a half gallon to two gallon bowl, pour the fruit concentrate. Now add the sugar syrup. Then add the fermenting wine yeast. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and leave this in a warm place for a few days. After a few hours the wine will begin to ferment. This ferment may be quite vigorous, so you will need to leave the wine in the bowl a few days so it doesn't overflow.
Once the ferment slows down, thoroughly clean a plastic or glass gallon jug. Using a plastic or glass kitchen funnel, pour the fermenting wine into the jug. Top up with cool tap water until the jar is a couple of inches from the top. Place a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar and secure with a rubber band. Place this in a cool, dark room. The ideal temperature is sixty to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The ferment will take approximately two months.
When the ferment is finished, siphon the finished wine into a second gallon jar using plastic tubing which is suitable for food use, being careful to not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the jug. The wine is now ready to drink, but will benefit from aging for several months to a year.
Good wine may be made in this way from frozen fruit concentrates quite easily and quickly. While not gourmet wine, it will be a delightful vin ordinaire which is quite economical to make. After you master it, you may experiment with different ingredients, yeasts and juices to make a wine more suitable to your tastes.
Thursday, October 22, 2009
History of The Kite - Kites At War
The kite was used as a military tool very early in its history. The Chinese were the inventors of the kite and were the first to use the kite for warfare. Han Hsin of the Han Dynasty used a kite to allow him to evade an enemy city's defenses. He needed to build a tunnel under the city's walls, but required a tool to help him determine how far to dig the tunnel. He had a kite flown over the city, marked the line and pulled the kite in. Engineers then began to dig the tunnel. When they reached the length determined by the kite string, they started ascending. The tunnel entered the city in the courtyard. His troops were able to enter the city and captured it. The Chinese also used kites to lift fireworks over enemy troops, terrifying and dispersing them. Kites of different shapes and sizes were also flown to deliver signals to soldiers in the field.
From China, kite technology spread to other Asian nations. Thailand made good use of the kite in many ways, including the art of war. King Petraja used kites to deliver what many feel was the first aerial bombing in history. A subject principality, Nakhon Ratchasima, known also as Korat, rebelled against his rule. King Petraja had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites flying over the rebel fortifications. These were then ignited and the explosions caused enough dismay and confusion among the rebels that they surrendered.
During the Crimean War an interesting concept using kites were tried. Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane came up with the idea of using kites to tow torpedoes into Russian ships. He set up some practice runs which were successful. But the idea was never implemented due to the fact that enemy ships were not always positioned correctly in relation to the prevailing wind to allow the kites to hit their targets.
World War I saw several uses for kites, mostly as observational devices. The French deployed a kite corps which consisted of a car, trailer and a motor driven winch. Most of the combatant armies used kites for observation early in the war. The arrival of the airplane caused these divisions to become obsolete and they were disbanded. The Germans used a specially designed box kite system on their submarines. The fact that an observer lifted to an altitude of 400 feet could see almost 250 miles over open ocean gave the submarines a bit of an advantage because they could see their enemies before being themselves detected.
A man named Harry Sauls designed a kite he called the barrage kite to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite was found useful in protecting merchant ships during World War II. A strong wire was used as the kite line and flown from strategic places on the ships. The wire was invisible to airplanes and strong enough to cut off a wing or destroy a propeller. The kites played a deterrent role in holding off enemy dive bomber attacks against the ships.
During World War II gunners on aircraft carriers used clouds for target practice. This practice did not provide a very realistic simulation of an attacking aircraft. Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island. Observing the limitations of the system, he decided to come up with a better target. He designed a kite for this purpose and challenged the gunnery crews to hit it with gunfire. To their chagrin, the kite proved a difficult target. His commanding officer observed this and ordered Garber to build more kites. He managed to come up with kites which mimicked the movements of an attacking aircraft, and the gunnery crew’s accuracy increased immensely. This helped the crews to destroy attacking aircraft at a much higher rate.
A box kite was also a key component of a device called the Gibson Girl during this war also. The apparatus consisted of a kite, antennae and hand crank radio. The Gibson Girl was standard issue on United States and British bombers. An airman shot down and adrift on the sea could deploy the kite with the antennae attached, and use the hand crank radio to signal his position. The Gibson Girl saw action as late as the Vietnam War.
Kites were used extensively during the course of history for many different military uses. From their inception by the Chinese to World War II and as late as the Vietnam War, kites have had their use as weapons, observational tools and signal devices.
From China, kite technology spread to other Asian nations. Thailand made good use of the kite in many ways, including the art of war. King Petraja used kites to deliver what many feel was the first aerial bombing in history. A subject principality, Nakhon Ratchasima, known also as Korat, rebelled against his rule. King Petraja had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites flying over the rebel fortifications. These were then ignited and the explosions caused enough dismay and confusion among the rebels that they surrendered.
During the Crimean War an interesting concept using kites were tried. Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane came up with the idea of using kites to tow torpedoes into Russian ships. He set up some practice runs which were successful. But the idea was never implemented due to the fact that enemy ships were not always positioned correctly in relation to the prevailing wind to allow the kites to hit their targets.
World War I saw several uses for kites, mostly as observational devices. The French deployed a kite corps which consisted of a car, trailer and a motor driven winch. Most of the combatant armies used kites for observation early in the war. The arrival of the airplane caused these divisions to become obsolete and they were disbanded. The Germans used a specially designed box kite system on their submarines. The fact that an observer lifted to an altitude of 400 feet could see almost 250 miles over open ocean gave the submarines a bit of an advantage because they could see their enemies before being themselves detected.
A man named Harry Sauls designed a kite he called the barrage kite to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite was found useful in protecting merchant ships during World War II. A strong wire was used as the kite line and flown from strategic places on the ships. The wire was invisible to airplanes and strong enough to cut off a wing or destroy a propeller. The kites played a deterrent role in holding off enemy dive bomber attacks against the ships.
During World War II gunners on aircraft carriers used clouds for target practice. This practice did not provide a very realistic simulation of an attacking aircraft. Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island. Observing the limitations of the system, he decided to come up with a better target. He designed a kite for this purpose and challenged the gunnery crews to hit it with gunfire. To their chagrin, the kite proved a difficult target. His commanding officer observed this and ordered Garber to build more kites. He managed to come up with kites which mimicked the movements of an attacking aircraft, and the gunnery crew’s accuracy increased immensely. This helped the crews to destroy attacking aircraft at a much higher rate.
A box kite was also a key component of a device called the Gibson Girl during this war also. The apparatus consisted of a kite, antennae and hand crank radio. The Gibson Girl was standard issue on United States and British bombers. An airman shot down and adrift on the sea could deploy the kite with the antennae attached, and use the hand crank radio to signal his position. The Gibson Girl saw action as late as the Vietnam War.
Kites were used extensively during the course of history for many different military uses. From their inception by the Chinese to World War II and as late as the Vietnam War, kites have had their use as weapons, observational tools and signal devices.
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
History Of Kites In Aviation
Kites have been very instrumental in the history of aviation. Most of the early aviators used kites to develop their theories before actually taking flight. The first humans to gain the distinction of flying among the birds did so with the aid of kites.
During the kite’s very early history in China, and later Japan, man carrying kites were built. There are many stories in the lore of both these countries of kites bearing men aloft. These kites were used primarily for military purposes as observational tools. Marco Polo (1254 - 1324), after his wanderings in China, documented the many uses for kites there.
The first scientist to use kites to study aviation was a Franciscan friar named Roger Bacon (1214?-1294). History remembers Roger Bacon for his scientific studies in many different fields including mathematics, optics, and astronomy. Bacon was the Western World's first true scientist, preceeding the emergence of widespread scientific study in Europe by about 500 years. During his experiments with kites, he came to the conclusion that if a craft were properly constructed, it could be supported by air in the same fashion that water supports a boat.
It wasn't until Sir George Cayley (1773-1857), almost 500 years later, that serious work was again done with kites in the field of aviation. Cayley, because of his work, is often called the "Father of Aviation." A native of Scarbourgh, England, this English baronet was an inventor who created the basic design of the airplanes flown today. Many of Cayley's designs for aircraft were developed during the ten year period from 1799 through 1809. He designed and built an aircraft which flew like a kite which had a movable tail and could be maneuvered.
Otto Lilienthal, a German engineer, dominated aviation history in the late 1800's. He is known mostly for his work with gliders, but his early experiments in the 1870's were primarily with kites. The lessons he learned from the kites he built and flew led directly to the many gliders he designed and flew. Over 2000 times he took to the air in flight. One fatal day his glider stalled at an altitude of around fifty feet. The glider crashed and he severed his spine. He died the next day.
Orville and Wilbur Wright represent the culmination of this long, historic process. They studied Lilienthal's designs and decided to base their initial designs on his. Using a biplane box kite they designed in 1899, they tested their theories on aircraft control. The kite framework of this kite was hinged, allowing it to twist. It was controlled from the ground, using four lines, one tied to each corner of the frame. They learned to control the kite using this system, and could make it bank, dive and climb.
The following year they constructed a glider, using the kite as a guide. This glider had enough lifting capacity to lift a man, but they decided fly it like a kite at first, using the same ground control system they had devised for the kite. Their experiments with this craft led to the design, construction, and eventual success with the flight of the Wright Flyer at Kitty Hawk in 1903.
Kites have had an instrumental role in the rise of the science of aviation. From the Chinese in the fifth century BC to the Wright Brothers in 1903, the kite has made its mark in the history of flight.
During the kite’s very early history in China, and later Japan, man carrying kites were built. There are many stories in the lore of both these countries of kites bearing men aloft. These kites were used primarily for military purposes as observational tools. Marco Polo (1254 - 1324), after his wanderings in China, documented the many uses for kites there.
The first scientist to use kites to study aviation was a Franciscan friar named Roger Bacon (1214?-1294). History remembers Roger Bacon for his scientific studies in many different fields including mathematics, optics, and astronomy. Bacon was the Western World's first true scientist, preceeding the emergence of widespread scientific study in Europe by about 500 years. During his experiments with kites, he came to the conclusion that if a craft were properly constructed, it could be supported by air in the same fashion that water supports a boat.
It wasn't until Sir George Cayley (1773-1857), almost 500 years later, that serious work was again done with kites in the field of aviation. Cayley, because of his work, is often called the "Father of Aviation." A native of Scarbourgh, England, this English baronet was an inventor who created the basic design of the airplanes flown today. Many of Cayley's designs for aircraft were developed during the ten year period from 1799 through 1809. He designed and built an aircraft which flew like a kite which had a movable tail and could be maneuvered.
Otto Lilienthal, a German engineer, dominated aviation history in the late 1800's. He is known mostly for his work with gliders, but his early experiments in the 1870's were primarily with kites. The lessons he learned from the kites he built and flew led directly to the many gliders he designed and flew. Over 2000 times he took to the air in flight. One fatal day his glider stalled at an altitude of around fifty feet. The glider crashed and he severed his spine. He died the next day.
Orville and Wilbur Wright represent the culmination of this long, historic process. They studied Lilienthal's designs and decided to base their initial designs on his. Using a biplane box kite they designed in 1899, they tested their theories on aircraft control. The kite framework of this kite was hinged, allowing it to twist. It was controlled from the ground, using four lines, one tied to each corner of the frame. They learned to control the kite using this system, and could make it bank, dive and climb.
The following year they constructed a glider, using the kite as a guide. This glider had enough lifting capacity to lift a man, but they decided fly it like a kite at first, using the same ground control system they had devised for the kite. Their experiments with this craft led to the design, construction, and eventual success with the flight of the Wright Flyer at Kitty Hawk in 1903.
Kites have had an instrumental role in the rise of the science of aviation. From the Chinese in the fifth century BC to the Wright Brothers in 1903, the kite has made its mark in the history of flight.
Tuesday, October 20, 2009
Who Invented Kites and Where Were They Invented?
Who invented the kite? And when were they invented? For the answer to those questions we have to dig far back in history, because people have been flying kites for thousands of years. A kite floating far above the earth seems to be such a simple thing. But if you stop to ponder its ancient lineage, the kite appears much more majestic.
Both China and Malaysia can legitimately claim honors as the kite's birthplace. There is evidence of kite flying as far back as the sixth century BC. China has written records of kite flying dating from 559 BC. Kites have been a part of Malaysian culture for millennia. It is an entirely credible possibility that kites were invented independently in both countries.
In China two philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are generally given credit for having invented the kite. These two brilliant men were contemporaries, and they had access to all the materials necessary for successful kite building. The silk making process by this time had been perfected. Silk fabric and thread have the properties of being strong, light in weight and impervious to moisture. These qualities make silk an ideal material for both the sail and the kite line. Bamboo grows abundantly in China, and is a superlative framework component. Mozi was a trained engineer who had wide experience constructing bird models and weapons of war. Lu Pan was a skilled carpenter who designed and built many things from wood, including model birds. One of his bird models was reputed to have been held aloft by compliant winds for three consecutive days.
Documentation of kite flying in Malaysia is scanty, but there is a very long tradition of it there. Materials available to the Malaysians were large tree leaves and bamboo. It is easy to imagine that leaves blowing in the wind created the inspiration for the invention of the first kite. Leaf kites are still flown in Malaysia, some of them are very elaborately designed.
So when were kite invented and who invented them? The answer to that question may never be definitely known, but China and Malaysia are the two best candidates for where, and Mozi and Lu Pan seem to have the best resumes to qualify for who invented them. But we do know that kite flying originated in one of these two countries and from there spread to the rest of the world.
Both China and Malaysia can legitimately claim honors as the kite's birthplace. There is evidence of kite flying as far back as the sixth century BC. China has written records of kite flying dating from 559 BC. Kites have been a part of Malaysian culture for millennia. It is an entirely credible possibility that kites were invented independently in both countries.
In China two philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are generally given credit for having invented the kite. These two brilliant men were contemporaries, and they had access to all the materials necessary for successful kite building. The silk making process by this time had been perfected. Silk fabric and thread have the properties of being strong, light in weight and impervious to moisture. These qualities make silk an ideal material for both the sail and the kite line. Bamboo grows abundantly in China, and is a superlative framework component. Mozi was a trained engineer who had wide experience constructing bird models and weapons of war. Lu Pan was a skilled carpenter who designed and built many things from wood, including model birds. One of his bird models was reputed to have been held aloft by compliant winds for three consecutive days.
Documentation of kite flying in Malaysia is scanty, but there is a very long tradition of it there. Materials available to the Malaysians were large tree leaves and bamboo. It is easy to imagine that leaves blowing in the wind created the inspiration for the invention of the first kite. Leaf kites are still flown in Malaysia, some of them are very elaborately designed.
So when were kite invented and who invented them? The answer to that question may never be definitely known, but China and Malaysia are the two best candidates for where, and Mozi and Lu Pan seem to have the best resumes to qualify for who invented them. But we do know that kite flying originated in one of these two countries and from there spread to the rest of the world.
Friday, November 14, 2008
HO Scale Electric Model Toy Trains

HO scale is the most popular size of electric model train available to hobbyists. And for good reason. At 1/87 scale it is small enough to pack a lot of detail into a small amount of space. A four by eight foot sheet of plywood can contain a lot of different scenes for the train to roll through.
This popularity has produced an amazing amount of track, figures, buildings and other accessories to be produced for the HO scale train. Indeed, there are more accessories for HO electric model trains than there is for all the other scales combined.
HO scale is the most popular size of electric model train available to hobbyists. And for good reason. At 1/87 scale it is small enough to pack a lot of detail into a small amount of space. A four by eight foot sheet of plywood can contain a lot of different scenes for the train to roll through.
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