Hobby Hobnob

Making Great Wine From Frozen Fruit Concentrates

2009-10-28T13:01:00.000-07:00

If you have ever wanted to make your own wine but thought that making good wine was difficult, then think again. Making wine is easy, especially if you make it from frozen juice concentrates. You can make grape, apple, cranberry or any other kind of wine you like by just browsing a grocery store's freezer case.

Equipment you will need can be found in the kitchen. To make one gallon of wine you will need a plastic or glass gallon jug, two twelve ounce containers of frozen fruit concentrate, two pounds of sugar and a glass or plastic bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. In addition you will need some granulated yeast. Wine yeast, which may be sold in some specialty grocery stores works best, but you may use granulated bakers yeast if you wish.

First, place the frozen concentrate in the refrigerator to thaw out. It can be used frozen, but it is much easier to mix in the sugar syrup if it is thawed out.

Next you will want to get the yeast started. For one gallon, use one level teaspoon of the granulated yeast. Whatever yeast is left in the packet may be sealed in a plastic bag and placed in the refrigerator until needed for the next batch of wine you make. Put two teaspoons of sugar in a glass of warm water and stir until it is dissolved. Then dump the yeast into the warm sugar water and stir well. Place this in a warm location until it starts to froth. This can take anywhere from a couple of hours to several hours, depending upon the temperature of the room and the freshness of the yeast.

After the yeast is started you may make the sugar into syrup for use in the wine. To make the syrup boil the two pounds of sugar in one half gallon of water, stirring often to keep the sugar from scorching. The sugar solution will clear when it is done. Take the syrup off the stove, cover and set aside until it is cool. Usually this will take a couple of hours, so by the time the starter is ready, the sugar syrup will also be cool enough to use.

Now you are ready to make the wine. In a one and a half gallon to two gallon bowl, pour the fruit concentrate. Now add the sugar syrup. Then add the fermenting wine yeast. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and leave this in a warm place for a few days. After a few hours the wine will begin to ferment. This ferment may be quite vigorous, so you will need to leave the wine in the bowl a few days so it doesn't overflow.

Once the ferment slows down, thoroughly clean a plastic or glass gallon jug. Using a plastic or glass kitchen funnel, pour the fermenting wine into the jug. Top up with cool tap water until the jar is a couple of inches from the top. Place a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the jar and secure with a rubber band. Place this in a cool, dark room. The ideal temperature is sixty to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. The ferment will take approximately two months.

When the ferment is finished, siphon the finished wine into a second gallon jar using plastic tubing which is suitable for food use, being careful to not disturb the sediment at the bottom of the jug. The wine is now ready to drink, but will benefit from aging for several months to a year.

Good wine may be made in this way from frozen fruit concentrates quite easily and quickly. While not gourmet wine, it will be a delightful vin ordinaire which is quite economical to make. After you master it, you may experiment with different ingredients, yeasts and juices to make a wine more suitable to your tastes.

History of The Kite - Kites At War

2009-10-22T05:33:00.000-07:00

The kite was used as a military tool very early in its history. The Chinese were the inventors of the kite and were the first to use the kite for warfare. Han Hsin of the Han Dynasty used a kite to allow him to evade an enemy city's defenses. He needed to build a tunnel under the city's walls, but required a tool to help him determine how far to dig the tunnel. He had a kite flown over the city, marked the line and pulled the kite in. Engineers then began to dig the tunnel. When they reached the length determined by the kite string, they started ascending. The tunnel entered the city in the courtyard. His troops were able to enter the city and captured it. The Chinese also used kites to lift fireworks over enemy troops, terrifying and dispersing them. Kites of different shapes and sizes were also flown to deliver signals to soldiers in the field.

From China, kite technology spread to other Asian nations. Thailand made good use of the kite in many ways, including the art of war. King Petraja used kites to deliver what many feel was the first aerial bombing in history. A subject principality, Nakhon Ratchasima, known also as Korat, rebelled against his rule. King Petraja had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites flying over the rebel fortifications. These were then ignited and the explosions caused enough dismay and confusion among the rebels that they surrendered.

During the Crimean War an interesting concept using kites were tried. Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane came up with the idea of using kites to tow torpedoes into Russian ships. He set up some practice runs which were successful. But the idea was never implemented due to the fact that enemy ships were not always positioned correctly in relation to the prevailing wind to allow the kites to hit their targets.

World War I saw several uses for kites, mostly as observational devices. The French deployed a kite corps which consisted of a car, trailer and a motor driven winch. Most of the combatant armies used kites for observation early in the war. The arrival of the airplane caused these divisions to become obsolete and they were disbanded. The Germans used a specially designed box kite system on their submarines. The fact that an observer lifted to an altitude of 400 feet could see almost 250 miles over open ocean gave the submarines a bit of an advantage because they could see their enemies before being themselves detected.

A man named Harry Sauls designed a kite he called the barrage kite to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite was found useful in protecting merchant ships during World War II. A strong wire was used as the kite line and flown from strategic places on the ships. The wire was invisible to airplanes and strong enough to cut off a wing or destroy a propeller. The kites played a deterrent role in holding off enemy dive bomber attacks against the ships.

During World War II gunners on aircraft carriers used clouds for target practice. This practice did not provide a very realistic simulation of an attacking aircraft. Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island. Observing the limitations of the system, he decided to come up with a better target. He designed a kite for this purpose and challenged the gunnery crews to hit it with gunfire. To their chagrin, the kite proved a difficult target. His commanding officer observed this and ordered Garber to build more kites. He managed to come up with kites which mimicked the movements of an attacking aircraft, and the gunnery crew’s accuracy increased immensely. This helped the crews to destroy attacking aircraft at a much higher rate.

A box kite was also a key component of a device called the Gibson Girl during this war also. The apparatus consisted of a kite, antennae and hand crank radio. The Gibson Girl was standard issue on United States and British bombers. An airman shot down and adrift on the sea could deploy the kite with the antennae attached, and use the hand crank radio to signal his position. The Gibson Girl saw action as late as the Vietnam War.

Kites were used extensively during the course of history for many different military uses. From their inception by the Chinese to World War II and as late as the Vietnam War, kites have had their use as weapons, observational tools and signal devices.

History Of Kites In Aviation

2009-10-21T06:11:00.000-07:00

Kites have been very instrumental in the history of aviation. Most of the early aviators used kites to develop their theories before actually taking flight. The first humans to gain the distinction of flying among the birds did so with the aid of kites.

During the kite’s very early history in China, and later Japan, man carrying kites were built. There are many stories in the lore of both these countries of kites bearing men aloft. These kites were used primarily for military purposes as observational tools. Marco Polo (1254 - 1324), after his wanderings in China, documented the many uses for kites there.

The first scientist to use kites to study aviation was a Franciscan friar named Roger Bacon (1214?-1294). History remembers Roger Bacon for his scientific studies in many different fields including mathematics, optics, and astronomy. Bacon was the Western World's first true scientist, preceeding the emergence of widespread scientific study in Europe by about 500 years. During his experiments with kites, he came to the conclusion that if a craft were properly constructed, it could be supported by air in the same fashion that water supports a boat.

It wasn't until Sir George Cayley (1773-1857), almost 500 years later, that serious work was again done with kites in the field of aviation. Cayley, because of his work, is often called the "Father of Aviation." A native of Scarbourgh, England, this English baronet was an inventor who created the basic design of the airplanes flown today. Many of Cayley's designs for aircraft were developed during the ten year period from 1799 through 1809. He designed and built an aircraft which flew like a kite which had a movable tail and could be maneuvered.

Otto Lilienthal, a German engineer, dominated aviation history in the late 1800's. He is known mostly for his work with gliders, but his early experiments in the 1870's were primarily with kites. The lessons he learned from the kites he built and flew led directly to the many gliders he designed and flew. Over 2000 times he took to the air in flight. One fatal day his glider stalled at an altitude of around fifty feet. The glider crashed and he severed his spine. He died the next day.

Orville and Wilbur Wright represent the culmination of this long, historic process. They studied Lilienthal's designs and decided to base their initial designs on his. Using a biplane box kite they designed in 1899, they tested their theories on aircraft control. The kite framework of this kite was hinged, allowing it to twist. It was controlled from the ground, using four lines, one tied to each corner of the frame. They learned to control the kite using this system, and could make it bank, dive and climb.

The following year they constructed a glider, using the kite as a guide. This glider had enough lifting capacity to lift a man, but they decided fly it like a kite at first, using the same ground control system they had devised for the kite. Their experiments with this craft led to the design, construction, and eventual success with the flight of the Wright Flyer at Kitty Hawk in 1903.

Kites have had an instrumental role in the rise of the science of aviation. From the Chinese in the fifth century BC to the Wright Brothers in 1903, the kite has made its mark in the history of flight.

Who Invented Kites and Where Were They Invented?

2009-10-20T05:35:00.000-07:00

Who invented the kite? And when were they invented? For the answer to those questions we have to dig far back in history, because people have been flying kites for thousands of years. A kite floating far above the earth seems to be such a simple thing. But if you stop to ponder its ancient lineage, the kite appears much more majestic.

Both China and Malaysia can legitimately claim honors as the kite's birthplace. There is evidence of kite flying as far back as the sixth century BC. China has written records of kite flying dating from 559 BC. Kites have been a part of Malaysian culture for millennia. It is an entirely credible possibility that kites were invented independently in both countries.

In China two philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are generally given credit for having invented the kite. These two brilliant men were contemporaries, and they had access to all the materials necessary for successful kite building. The silk making process by this time had been perfected. Silk fabric and thread have the properties of being strong, light in weight and impervious to moisture. These qualities make silk an ideal material for both the sail and the kite line. Bamboo grows abundantly in China, and is a superlative framework component. Mozi was a trained engineer who had wide experience constructing bird models and weapons of war. Lu Pan was a skilled carpenter who designed and built many things from wood, including model birds. One of his bird models was reputed to have been held aloft by compliant winds for three consecutive days.

Documentation of kite flying in Malaysia is scanty, but there is a very long tradition of it there. Materials available to the Malaysians were large tree leaves and bamboo. It is easy to imagine that leaves blowing in the wind created the inspiration for the invention of the first kite. Leaf kites are still flown in Malaysia, some of them are very elaborately designed.

So when were kite invented and who invented them? The answer to that question may never be definitely known, but China and Malaysia are the two best candidates for where, and Mozi and Lu Pan seem to have the best resumes to qualify for who invented them. But we do know that kite flying originated in one of these two countries and from there spread to the rest of the world.

HO Scale Electric Model Toy Trains

2008-11-14T05:11:00.001-08:00

HO scale is the most popular size of electric model train available to hobbyists. And for good reason. At 1/87 scale it is small enough to pack a lot of detail into a small amount of space. A four by eight foot sheet of plywood can contain a lot of different scenes for the train to roll through.

This popularity has produced an amazing amount of track, figures, buildings and other accessories to be produced for the HO scale train. Indeed, there are more accessories for HO electric model trains than there is for all the other scales combined.

HO scale is the most popular size of electric model train available to hobbyists. And for good reason. At 1/87 scale it is small enough to pack a lot of detail into a small amount of space. A four by eight foot sheet of plywood can contain a lot of different scenes for the train to roll through.

2008-11-11T10:39:00.000-08:00

Guillow Easy Build-By-Number rubber band powered balsa wood airplane model kits are fun to build and fly! Building and flying balsa wood model airplanes is a fascinating and fun hobby. The wood model airplanes may be flown or simply hung for display. Many enjoy leaving the paper covering off and displaying the wood framework of the plane hung from a ceiling. The wood frame is beautiful with just a coating of sealer to protect it.

The plane may be flown with the rubber band supplied, or powered with a gas or electric motor. The balsa model airplane kit is designed as a free flight model. This means that the plane is powered up and released and the plane goes where it will. There is not enough room inside most of these airplanes to m mount the servos and other things needed for radio controlled flight.

Beer Making Supplies

2008-09-25T05:37:00.001-07:00

Most of the supplies for making beer can be found in the average kitchen, though the beer making process is easier if you collect some of the more specialized accessories you will need. A good beer making kit will have most of the supplies needed for making beer. You will need a boiler which will hold at least one gallon of water. A fermenting container is needed which is large enough to hold the quantity of beer being made. Most malt extracts will produce two gallons of beer, so the fermenter is needed. Some of the kits have fementers which have a spigot. This feature definitely makes bottling easier as it eliminates the need for the finicky, messy siphon hose.

You will need bottles to put the beer in when the primary fermentation is complete. Plastic soda bottles which have been thouroughly cleaned and sanitized are ideal for this purpose. They will handle the pressure which builds up during the secondary fermentation, are commonly available and reusable. Thats it, for basic beer making that is all the supplies you will need. As you go along, you may want to add more stuff, like a bottling hydrometer, nicer bottles, etc. But these supplies will get you started making beer.

Step by Step Beer Making Process

2008-09-25T05:16:00.000-07:00

Beer Making Step 1 - Start the yeast in a glass of warm water which has had two teaspoons of sugar dissolved in it.

Beer Making Step 2 - Sterilize your equipment with a good sterilizing agent.

Beer Making Step 3 - After the yeast is fermenting, place the can of malt extract in a bowl of warm water to soften it.

Beer Making Step 4 - Boil one gallon of water.

Beer Making Step 5 - Pour in the booster and up to two pounds of sugar and stir until dissolved.

Beer Making Step 6 - Pour in the malt extract, stir until dissolved.

Beer Making Step 7 - If the malt extract is unhopped, or you want more hops, now is the time to add them. Boil the mix with the hops for at least one half hour.

Beer Making Step 8 - Allow the wort to cool, then pour it into the fermenting container. Top up with water and add the yeast starter mix.

Beer Making Step 9 - Put the fementator in a cool area, between sixty and seventy degress. Fermentation should take between seven and ten days.

Beer Making Step 10 - After the beer has cleared somewhat and there are no more floating colonies of yeast on top, it is time to bottle the beer. Place one teaspoon of sugar in a twelve ounce PET bottle (plastic soft drink) after sterilizing it. Siphon the beer in until the beer is one inch from the top. Screw on the top and place the bottle in a cool, dark area. Secondary fermentation should take about seven to ten days. Squeeze the sides of the bottle. It will be very hard to press in the bottles sides when fermentation is complete.

Beer Making Step 11 - When the secondary fermentation is complete, refrigerate the beer, then uncap it and pour slowly into a glass. Don't pour the last half inch or so of the beer or you will spoil the effect of the clear, bubbling beer. The sediment at the bottom will also impart a yeasty taste to the beer. There is nothing wrong with the sediment, indeed it is quite nutritious, so you may drink it. Some places serve the sediment with lemon.

This step by step outline is for a beer making kit made by Mr. Beer. Other kits or recipes may use a slightly different step progression, but this is the main sequence used.

Beer Making Process

2008-09-24T05:37:00.000-07:00

Modern brewing involves many steps in the transformation of grain, hops, yeast, and water into the sparkling, invigorating beverage we call beer. The following is a greatly simplified outline of the process a commercial brewing company uses to make beer.

Malting is the first step in the process of making beer. This involves soaking the harvested grain in water and allowing germination to begin. This, by a complicated chemical process, creates sugar, a necessary component to fermentation.

The partly germinated grain is now kilned, or heat dried, and it is called malt at this stage. Different kilning methods will produce different types of beer.

Milling is next - the malt is re-mixed with water to complete the conversion of starches in the grain to sugar, then the grain is milled to create the proper consistency to the malt, now termed grist.

The grist is subsequently mashed. This involves re-mixing with water and boiling it in a series of steps. Finally the wort is separated from the grain residue by a series of spinning and filtering steps

Next the wort is transferred to a copper vat, hops are added, and the mixture is boiled for a period of time. After boiling, the wort is subjected to a process by which the spent hops and other residues are removed.

The wort is transferred to a fermenting vessel and yeast is added. The wort should be about ten percent sugars in solution at this point. The fermentation process begins now, and the wort will be transformed into beer by the yeast cells.

Once fermentation has completed, a secondary fermentation is induced to rid the beer of impurities and improve the flavor. This step, in the ‘homebrew’ process, is completed in the bottle to add carbonation to the beer. The carbonation gives the beer a fresh flavor, and helps the beer keep longer. The home beer making process is almost complete.

Maturation of the completed beer follows. The beer is stored cold for a period of time, allowing the flavor to mellow and certain chemical processes to complete. Once this is complete, commercial breweries filter the beer and package it for sale. Draft beer is placed in metal casks and sent out to market in refrigerated trucks. Bottled and canned beer are pasteurized after bottling and sold.

Beer Making Kits

2008-09-24T05:32:00.000-07:00

The easiest way to start making is to purchase a beer making kit. The kit will contain all the necessary items needed to
brew your first batch of beer, except, of course, the water.

The first batch is ready in 14 days; the second batch can start just seven days after the
first batch, allowing continuos production of beer. Alcohol content is equivalent to
commercial brews, and it is produced by the natural fermentation of the yeast. Since the
beer naturally ferments in the bottle, no CO2 cartridges are needed to carbonate the beer.

You can save up to 75% off the cost of commercial beers, and the equipment is all reusable.
You need only buy refill packs of beer mix, and this is available in a large variety of
different types of beer.

Home Beer Making

2008-09-23T05:14:00.001-07:00

Making beer at home was illegal in the United States before 1978. In November of that year, President Jimmy Carter signed the bill which allowed the brewing of up to 200 gallons of beer at home. Since that time interest in the craft of home brewing has been increasing steadily and many home owners have taken up the craft. High quality ingredients are available to the home brewer, and excellent craft beers can be made in the home with the investment of just a little time.

Making a batch of beer in the home can take as little as two to three weeks from the time the brew is made until the bottles are carbonized and ready to drink. Modern equipment and beer making kits have greatly simplified the home brewing process, creating a fun hobby for many people. Home brewed beer can be cheaper than commercially brewed beer, but the real reward in brewing beer at home is the ability to customize your brew to your own taste. Fruits, herbs and other ingredients may be added to the wort, imparting different tastes to the finished brew.

Thomas the Tank Engine Music

2008-09-05T05:36:00.000-07:00

Reverand Awdry's timeless stories have spawned many songs and music videos about Thomas the Tank Engine and his friends. CD's and MP3 downloads can be played in the car on long trips, at the beach or wherever young Thomas fans want to listen.

Sheet music is also available so young musicians can learn to play their favorite songs, as well as the lyrics to all their favorites so they can sing along.

Live videos can also be played online for entertainment and a much more intensive Thomas the Tank Engine Experience.

Thomas theTank Games

2008-09-05T05:35:00.000-07:00

The Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends stories have inspired more than toys. There are also many different games to play featuring Thomas on the Isle of Sodor. Educational and fun games allow children to learn while playing offer a double benefit.

Games include Thomas the Tank Engine board games, card games, dominos, and many more. Great fun for the entire family with these great Thomas Games.

Thomas the Tank engine games can also be plated online. These interactive games include railway games, puzzles and matching games.

Thomas the Tank Engine Sets

2008-09-03T05:47:00.000-07:00

Thomas the Tank Engine sets are popular toys for pre-schoolers, offering a great way to get into the Thomas the Tank stories first hand. There are several different types of sets on the market, and choosing one can be difficult.

The most popular and extensive line is the Wooden Railway series. This series has been around for a number of years. The wooden track is two sided, so it can't be put together wrong. The wooden rolling stock has durable plastic wheels and magnetic couplers. The play value on this series is extremely high.

A newcomer to the Thomas the Tank Engine scene is Lego. In true Lego style, the large pieces of plastic track snap together easily and the train cars roll effortlessly around the track.

Tomy manufactures a pretty large line of plastic Thomas the Tank Engine train sets. The plastic blue track is double sided, hooks together easily. The battery powered engines roll easily along the track. The track is not compatable with the Wooden Railway, but the cars will roll on the track. There are sets, track packs and vehicles availble for expansion.

Electric Thomas the Tank Engine sets are led by Bachman's Thomas and Friends series. These HO scale electric train sets includes Bachman's EZ Track which can be set up virtually anywhere because the track bed is bonded to the track. The locomotives roll along, eyes rolling from side to side as they scan the countryside around them. This fairly extensive line runs on standard HO track, so it can be incorporated into any HO layour, and there is a lot of different components to the EZ Track system, so any set can be easily expanded.

Lionel also manufactures an O Gauge Thomas the Tank Engine set which will run on its three rail system. The sets include Lionel's Fast Track, which snaps together easily and can be run on carpets, floors or tables. The sets are easily expandable.

Day Out With Thomas On The Strasburg Railroad

2008-09-03T05:07:00.001-07:00

Strasburg, Pennslyvania is located in Amish country in Lancaster County. The rail line is an old one, established in 1832. The East Strasburg Station is located near the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania which features the rich railroad history of the area.

The rail line has a full size, operating Thomas the Tank Engine which the whole family can ride. Click the link for full operating schedule and special events of the Day out with Thomas.

Thomas The Tank Engine Toy Train

2008-09-02T05:25:00.000-07:00

Thomas the Tank Engine is the creation of the Reverend Wilbert Awdry who carved a wooden train engine for his son when he was small, then wove a myriad of stories about the engine to entertain the young boy. Reverend Awdry wrote the stories down, and eventually they were published. The stories have become quite popular and have led to all sorts of Thomas the Tank Engine toys, videos, games, clothing and much more.

Thomas The Tank Engine was the subject of a very popular television show which has entertained millions of children over the years, and he was even the star of a full length movie. Thomas has many friends, characters like Toby, Henrietta, Gordon and Duncan. Thomas and his friends have brought a lot of joy to many children since his inception and is now remembered fondly by many adults as the think back on the television show and the toys they played with as children.

But toys and television shows are only a part of the picture. A full size Thomas the Tank Engine makes its rounds, providing rides and opportunities for children to have their photos taken with Thomas. The destinations for Thomas changes constantly, as the Thomas chugs around the countryside looking for new places to hang out.

The Thomas the Tank Engine experience is one of the joys of childhood, the games, toys, videos creating a lifetime of memories. The Reverend Awdry probably never guessed the extent of his contribution to childhood when he composed the first story for his son many years ago.

A Short History of the Coin We Call the Nickel

2008-08-18T05:36:00.000-07:00

The nickel, as we know, is worth five cents, which is half the value of a dime. This is what the coin that preceeded the nickel was called, the half disme. The "s" is silent, so the word is pronounced "dime". The half dime was made of silver and was very small, making it hard for people to use and very easy to loose. Today a nickel isn't worth much, but in the early 1800's, a nickel might represent a day's work.

So in 1866 the United States Mint began issuing nickels with a composition of 75% copper and 35% nickel. The nickels were the same size as the coin we are familiar with today, but the design was much different. The obverse featured the United States shield, the reverse a large "5" surrounded by thirteen stars which represented the original thirteen states. These coins, because of the design, proved very hard to strike. So this series of nickles was discontinued in 1883.

The Liberty, or "V", nickle began production in 1883 and continued until 1913. The obverse pictured a Liberty head surrounded by thirteen stars. The reverse had a large Roman Numeral "V". The first coins minted in this series did not have the word "Cents" on them. This nickel was the same size and design as the five dollar gold piece in use at the time. So some enterprising persons plated the coins gold, then passed them off as gold pieces. The Mint soon added the word "Cents" to stop this practice.

In 1913 the Liberty Head Nickel was replaced by the Buffalo Nickel. This coin has a buffalo on the reverse, hence the name. It also is called the Indian head nickel because of the American Indian bust shown on the obverse. This coin was minted until 1938 when it was superseded by the currently used Jefferson Nickel.

Jefferson Silver War Nickel

2008-08-13T08:33:00.000-07:00

During World War II nickel was needed for the war effort. So the alloy of the nickel shifted from the 75% copper and 35% nickel composition to one consisting of 56% copper, 35% silver and 9% manganese. These mint mark was moved from under Monticello to over it, and it was made very large. The Jefferson nickels minted during the war will usually have a darker look than the standard alloy. The coins were produced from 1942, 1943, 1944 and 1945.

Indian Head Nickel

2008-08-12T09:32:00.000-07:00

The Indian Head Nickel is also referred to as the Buffalo Nickel. The coin, designed by James Earle Fraser, features and Indian bust on the obverse (front) and a buffalo on the reverse. The alloy used in the Indian Head Nickel is 75% copper and 35% nickel. It was minted from 1913 until 1938 when it was replaced by the Jefferson Nickel. Three American Indian chiefs served as models for the obverse, Iron Tail, Two Moons and John Big Tree. The buffalo on the reverse was probably an American bison named Black Diamond, who resided at the Central Park Zoo in New York.

What President Is That On The Nickel?

2008-08-11T12:23:00.000-07:00

Since 1938 the President featured on the nickel is Thomas Jefferson. His is the second longest Presidential visage in use on United States coinage, Abraham Lincoln being the longest. The reverse of the coin shows Monticello, Jefferson's Virginia home. The composition of the nickel in its early yearswas 75% copper and 35% nickel. The composition was changed during the World War 2 period to a 56% copper, 35% silver and 9% manganese alloy. This composition was used in nickels minted in 1942, 1943, 1944 and 1945. In 1946 the nickel reverted to the prewar alloy. In honor of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, which Thomas Jefferson authorized, the reverse of the coin was changed four times from 2005 - 2006. In 2006, Monticello returned to the reverse and a new, modern depiction of Jefferson made its debut.

Fermenting Wine - The Blueberry Wine

2008-08-07T12:01:00.000-07:00

The blueberry wine made earlier this week is bubbling away. The yeast works on the sugar in the solution converting it to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide bubbles away, leaving the alcohol behind.

How To Make Blueberry Wine - An Easy Recipe

2008-08-04T05:29:00.000-07:00

Blueberries make and excellent wine which is very easy to make. How to make blueberry wine? Here are the ingredients:
3 - 4 pounds of blueberries
6 ounces of grape concentrate
One teaspoon of wine yeast (You may use bakers yeast, but it may impart a "bready" flavor to the finished wine.)
2 1/2 pounds of sugar.
Start the yeast ahead of time to allow it to be in full ferment when it is added to the wine must. Add one teaspoon of yeast granules to a warm 8 ounce glass of warm water in which one tablespoon of sugar has been dissolved. Then dissolve the remainder of the sugar by adding it to 1/2 gallon of boiling water. Stir until clear. When the sugar solution has cooled and the wine yeast is fermenting, you may continue the recipe. Dump the blueberries into a bowl which will hold at least one and a half gallons. Do not use metal. Use plastic, glazed ceramic or glass. A clean water bucket which has not been used with any type of cleaning solution will work. I have a two and a half gallon bucket which I used exclusively for making wine. It is used for nothing else. Use a potato masher to thoroughly crush the blueberries. Next add the grape concentrate. This will impart what is called "vinous quality" to the wine. Now add the cooled sugar solution. Top up with 3.5 quarts of lukewarm water. Then add the fermenting yeast. Cover the bowl with a loose fitting cover like a dishtowel or elastic food covers.
Allow this to stand for three to four days, stirring three or four times a day. It should start fermenting vigorously after a day or so. Next pour the blueberry slush through a plastic colander and press the residue with a potato masher, extracting most of the juice. Pour this into a gallon jar to ferment. Top up with cool water and place in a dark location which stays around sixty five to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. Use a glass jar or thoroughly cleaned plastic milk jug. Do not put the screw top on. The bottle will explode due to the pressure buildup of carbon dioxide as the yeast ferments. Place a piece of plastic food wrap over the opening and secure with a rubber band.
This blueberry wine recipe will yield a semi-sweet wine. For a sweeter wine, add a more sugar. For a dryer wine, add a bit less. You may also sweeten the wine if it is too dry by adding a bit of sugar to it when it is done fermenting.
After the wine has fermented about two to three months, it should be siphoned off, using clear plastic, food quality tubing, into a clean gallon jug. Be careful not to disturb the sediment at the bottom. It should be done fermenting by now and the screw top can be used to protect the wine. Don't turn it tight, just leave it loose for a week or so in case the wind starts to ferment again. After the blueberry wine has aged for a few months it will be ready to drink and enjoy.

This simple recipe shows you how to make blueberry wine in just a few steps.

Here are ten easy steps to making wind from a fruit concentrate.

2008-07-28T15:58:00.000-07:00

Step 1
Assemble your supplies - see post below

Step 2
Start your wine yeast - see post below

Step 3
Dissolve the sugar in boiling water - see post below

Step 4
Pour the fruit juice concentrate into the bowl, add the yeast and sugar - see post below

Step 5
Allow this to ferment five or six days

Step 6
Pour into a gallon jug, cover jar mouth with plastic wrap and seal with a rubber band

Step 7
Allow this to ferment for two to three months

Step 8
Siphon the now fermented wine into a new, clean jug

Step 9
Allow this to stand at least a month to age gracefully

Step 10
Drink the wine

Wine Making Supplies

2008-07-24T08:16:00.001-07:00

To make a gallon of wine you will need a few supplies, most of which can be found in the average kitchen. You will need a large glass, plastic, or glazed ceramic bowl which holds one and a half gallons to put the wine in during its initial anaerobic phase. A loose fitting cover, which can be simply a clean dishtowel to cover this container. You will also need a stainless steel or plastic spoon to stir things with and a measuring cup.

You will need a clean gallon jug of some kind. A plastic milk jug, thoroughly cleaned, will work. Don't use bleach or other jugs which may have held some kind of cleaner. The plastic may not be approved for food products and it will prove almost impossible to get the odor out of the container, which would ruin the wine. If you use an old vinegar jug, make sure it has been cleaned thouroughly or you will have vinegar instead of wine. A small piece of plastic food wrap and a rubber band can be used to cover the opening while the wine is fermenting. Be sure to save the cap for use when the wine is finished fermenting.

A short piece of food quality plastic hose, like the type used for ice makers, is good to have to siphon the wine after it has finished fermenting. And of course and wine glass to drink the wine with when it is done. It is best to gather all the wine making supplies before you make it to make sure you have what you need when you need it.

Home Wine Making

2008-07-22T10:39:00.000-07:00

According to Federal law since 1978 a homeowner may make up to 200 gallons of wine and beer for their own consumption. Home wine making before that was illegal, but many people still did it. Since it has become legal, there has been an explosion of new supplies, concentrates, yeasts and other supplies needed by the home wine maker.

Making good wine at home is not only legal now, but easy and fun as well. It is not for the person used to immediate gratification, though. Fermenting the wine will take a minimun of a couple of months, and most wines benefit from ageing for at least a few months before comsumption.

There are many choices out there for the home wine maker as to ingredients used to make the wine. You can use fresh fruit, dried fruit or frozen concetrates. Certain flowers, like dandelion, make excellent wine as well.

Any online wine supplier will have many different types of yeast, cleaners, bottles, corks and anything else you need to make your own great wine at home. And best of all, after you have learned a bit about the home wine making art, you will be able to craft your wine to suit your own palate.

Lincoln Head Cent

2008-06-25T07:42:00.000-07:00

The Lincoln Head Cent is approaching it's 100th birthday and as such, it is the longest running coin in continuous production in United States History. From 1909 until 1959 the reverse bore an impression of two sheaves of wheat, from which originated the term "Wheaties". From 1959 until present the Lincoln Head Cent reverse bears and engraving of the Lincoln Memorial, so they are called "Memorial Cents".

From their inception until 1942 the coins were composed of a bronze alloy, 95% copper and 5% tin and zinc. During the War year 1943 the coins were composed of zinc coated steel. From 1946 the composition changed to brass, 95% copper and 5% zinc. After the War, the composition changed back to the pre-war alloy until 1962. From 1962 until 1982 the composition was brass again. From 1982 until present the coins have a 97.5% zinc core and are plated with copper.

Small Cents - The Indian Head Penny

2008-06-23T08:27:00.001-07:00

The Indian Head Cent was minted from 1859 through 1909 and superseded the unpopular Flying Eagle Cent. The initial alloy for the coin was 88% nickel and 12% copper. This was changed in 1864 to a bronze alloy of 95 percent copper and 5 percent tin and zinc.

The Flying Eagle Cent

2008-06-19T16:39:00.000-07:00

The flying eagle cent was designed and produced to fulfil a need. Coinage in the United States in the 1840's through the 1860's was a confused state of affairs. Large cents were being produced, but were not considered legal tender. Thus, many merchants would not accept them as payment. There was also a large amount of foreign money circulating, most of it Spanish. It was also costing the US Mint more to produce the Large Cent than it was intrinsically worth.

So in 1856 a small number of the first Small Cents in US history were produced. These were supposed to be sample pieces and returned to the mint. But most weren't. In 1857 the first Flying Eagle cents were minted for circulation. These would continue in production until 1859, when it's successor the Indian Head Cent would be minted.

The Flying Eagles would consist of an alloy of 88% nickel and 12% copper. The main problems with the Flying Eagle was in the design, which allowed the two high points in the obverse in the same area of the coin, causing a weakness in the strike. In addition, the designer, James B. Longacre, was by trade a painter and not a sculptor. He had trouble carving the dies out deep enough, which caused more production problems. Thus, the Flying Eagle exited the stage after a run of only two years.

The Penny - 1857 - 2008

2008-06-17T08:44:00.000-07:00

The penny has had a long and distinguished history in the annals of United States coinage. The small penny we know has its beginnings in the Flying Eagle cent which began production in 1857. This penny was produced for three years.

In 1857 the US Mint began production of the Indian Head Penny, which was circulated from that year until 1909 when it was superseded by the Lincoln Head Penny, which continues in production today.

The Lincoln Penny was produced from 1909 until 1959 with two sheave of wheat on the reverse. These are the so called Wheat Pennies, or Wheaties. Although the Lincoln Penny has been changed in composition over time, the design has remained basically the same since 1950 when the Memorial cent came into production.

The small penny we know today has circulated for 151 years with only four major design pages.

Wine and Beer Making - The Yeast

2008-06-13T08:17:00.000-07:00

The yeast used in wine making and beer making is similiar in appearance and function. But there are different types of yeasts for wine making and beer making and each type will impart its own particular flavor to the finished product. Wine made with a beer yeast may have a slightly "beery" flavor as a result.

Most yeasts are sold in packets of dried yeast. This yeast will remain vialble for a long time, but it will lose its vigor after awhile. Opened packets in which not all the yeast has been used may be stored in the refrigerator for a while, but it will only keep a few weeks to a few months stored like this.

The yeast should be introduced to the unfermented wine or beer only after it has been "started". Do this by dissolving the yeast in warm, not hot, water and adding some sugar. Stir the mix until all is dissolved. Allow this to stand in a warm place for a day or so. The yeast should start to ferment. The container should form a brown scum on the top. This scum should be removed and the fermenting starter added to the wine or beer.

Yeast converts the sugar in a wort (unfermented beer) or must (unfermentated wine) to carbon dioxide and alcohol. The bubbling of fermentation is the carbon dioxide escaping from the mix. About half the sugar is converted to alcolhol, and about half is converted to carbon dioxide.

If you are out of yeast, some fermenting wine may be removed from its container and, with some sugar added, used as a starter for a fresh batch. Make sure you siphon your starter from the bottom of the fermenting wine, as most of the yeast is located here.

The Fermentation Lock

2008-06-10T14:11:00.000-07:00

The fermentation lock serves as a tool to keep fermentating wine from being invaded by fruit flys and other pests. The fermentation lock is not indespensible, and any way which can be found which blocks the fermentating vessels mouth, allows the carbon dioxide being produced to escape can be used.

One way to do do this is by simply putting the screw cap on loosely enough to allow the gas to escape. Another is to plug the opening with cotton or a clean cloth. But there is something soothing about hearing the bubbling of the lock as the wine ferments, especially in the early stages when the ferment can be quite vigorous.

Just make sure, if you use one, to replace the water periodically, as it can get quite nasty and become a source of contamination to the wine.

Hydrometer - For Wine or Beer Making

2008-06-10T13:50:00.000-07:00

The hydrometer is used in both winemaking and beer making and is an essential instrument for both hobbies. Most hydrometers are made of glass, with a weighted bulb on the bottom and a graduated scale on the top. A trial jar is used to float the hydrometer in either the must of the wine, or the wort of the beer. The hydrometer measures the sugar content of the unfermented media and will help determine the final alcohol content of the mix.

Because sugar saturated liquid is denser than liquid after the sugar has fermented out, by taking a measurment before fermentation begins and after it has been finished the final alcohol content can be determined. You can also determine if you need to add more sugar to the brew to bring it up to desired levels, or to dilute it if there is too much sugar. In this way you can make your wine or beer to your specifications using the hydrometer.

The hydrometer is also used to determine if home brew is ready to bottle. If the sugar level is still too high, then bottling must be put off or you may burst the bottles. Similiarly, this same method can be used to make sparkling wines at home. If you are even semi-serious about wine making, you will want to have a hydrometer.

History of Beer

2008-05-22T07:23:00.000-07:00

Egyptian tomb hieroglyphics contain scenes of beer making from as early as 2400 BC. The Egyptians used barley cakes, made by partly germinating the grain, crushing and mixing it with water and drying it in the sun. The extract from these dried cakes was fermented by natural means in fermenting vessels, producing a type of beer.

The first beer making process was very simple, given the limited technology of the time. The grains would have been fermented only a short time and this beer would not have been carbonated.

More....

Home Beer Making

2008-05-21T10:45:00.000-07:00

The brewing of beer is an ancient craft, believed by many archeologists to be over 10,000 years old. The first domesticated grains were wheat and barley, with archeological evidence of these crops first being grown in Mesopotamia around 7000 BC. Beer making, as it depends primarily on these grains, surely made its entrance to human history shortly after the domestication of these important food crops. The first beer could have been accidentally produced. Stored grain, becoming wet, could have fermented naturally, producing beer. And the resulting brew undoubtedly both smelled and looked good to someone, who tasted it, and experienced the first hangover in history.

More...

2007 United States Mint Silver Proof Set™(V70)

2008-05-14T08:10:00.000-07:00

Coin collectors can purchase the complete 2007 proof set now at the United States Mint web site. This set has the Lincoln penny, Jefferson nickel, Roosevelt dime and all five issues of 2007 State Quarters. In addition to this, it has the Sacagawea gold dollar and the Kennedy half. There are fourteen coins in this set, including seven silver ones.

US Mint - 2007 First Spouse Series

2008-05-12T05:51:00.000-07:00

The US Mint has begun a series which I am surprised wasn't done a long time ago with the launching of the First Spouse Series. This series honors the spouse's of Presidents. These gold dollars are available in uncirculated and proof conditions. This first years offerings include Martha Washington, Abigail Adams, Thomas Jefferson’s Liberty and Dolley Madison. Available now singly or in a four piece set are Dolley Madison and Abigail Adams.

Building Balsa Airplanes

2008-05-07T06:59:00.000-07:00

Building and flying stick built model airplanes is a fun and fascinating hobby. The Build and Fly series of beginner suitable model airplanes is a good place to start. There are four models in the series, starting with the easy to build Goldwing. You progress through the next three, the Cadet, Cloudbuster and Flyboy model airplanes. When you finish the series you will have learned enough to build any of the model airplanes from Guillow's.

Lite Flite Flashing Glider

2008-05-02T06:57:00.000-07:00

The Lite Flite Flashing Glider from Guillows features super bright flashing lights. The exciting large 2' foam glider is a fun toy airplane to fly. Included in the colorful box are two flashing strobe lights, full sheet of stickers to decorate the glider and a realistic runway to practice landings. Have fun with this great little toy glider plane.

2008 Sacagawea Golden Dollar

2008-04-30T04:35:00.000-07:00

The 2008 Sacagawea Golden Dollar is now available at the US Mint web site. The gold dollars are available in rolls and bags. The obverse of this beautiful coin is engraved with a likeness of Sacagawea, the young American Indiana woman who guided the Lewis and Clark expdedition. The reverse features an eagle soaring among seventeen stars, one for each of the states which made up the United States at the time of the expedition.

The Sacagawea Golden Dollar is legal tender, and may be used as money, if you so desire. The coins were minted at the Philadelphia mint, thus feature the "P" mint mark

Dandelion Wine - Part 3

2008-04-28T06:52:00.000-07:00

The dandelion wine was ready for the next stage in the wine making process - straining the pulp and putting the fermentation jug.

Today I used a plastic colander to strain the raisins and other pulp from the must. Then I used a plastic spoon to squeeze the excess juice from the material in the colander. The must didn't quite fill the gallon jug, so I added one half cup of sugar syrup to the jug and topped it up with water.

Then I fitted a fermentation lock on the jug and put it on a plate on the kitchen counter. This is a precautionary step, in case the fermentation goes crazy and overflows. In a day or so, if it stay relatively quiet I will move it to the wine cellar.

The color is a bit more pink than I wanted. I used grape wine as the starter for the yeast, so the normally golden colored wine will probably have a tint of pink to it.

Dandelion Wine - Part 2

2008-04-24T04:43:00.000-07:00

That evening I placed the raisins in the bucket I used to pick the blossoms. This bucket is only used for wine making. I squeezed the juice from the two oranges and added the juice from a lemon. I added three cups of sugar syrup, the equivalent of one and a half pound of sugar. Then I topped up the water to the four quart line on the side of the bucket. I used a hydrometer to measure the sugar content. It was only around 1065, equivalent to about 8.5% alcohol content. Since wine should be at least 10% to be good, I added another cup of sugar syrup. This raised the specific gravity to around 1085, which is just over 10%. Since the raisins add sugar and this is impossible for me to measure, the finished wine should be around 11% or so.

I then added my fermenting wine yeast culture which had been previously prepared. You can add the dried yeast directly to the must, but it will take a bit longer to start. I then covered the must with a clean dish towel and let it stand in a warm area. By the next morning the wine had started fermenting. This should sit for around five or six days, fermenting on this pulp. Stir is two or three times a day with a plastic or stainless steel spoon.

Making Dandelion Wine - Part One

2008-04-23T04:31:00.000-07:00

On Monday I picked the blossoms for a one gallon batch of Dandelion wine. My mother made a mean dandelion wine when I was a kid, and I have her recipe.
About two quarts of picked blossoms. Pick off the green base of the flower, it will provide a bitter taste to the wine.
Two oranges
One lemon
One one pound box of white raisins
One pack of wine yeast
Four cups of standard sugar syrup or two pounds of sugar
One tea bag.

The first step in making dandelion wine is to pick the blossoms. Choose a sunny day when the blossoms are at their fullest. Pick the blossom, then pluck the base of the flower off and discard. Place the blossoms in a clean container. I have a water bucket which had quart graduations marked on the inside. This bucket is used only for wine making, so it is not contaminated with anything.

Once the blossoms have been gathered, boil two quarts of water. Place the tea bag in with the blossoms and pour the boiling water over the blossoms. The tea bag will add tannin to the wine, improving its flavor. Allow this to steep for several hours. I let it stand overnight. In the morning, I didn't have time to make the wine, so I strained the blossoms using a plastic colander. Don't use a metal one, which may impart a metallic flavor to the wine. Press the soggy blossoms with a plastic or stainless steel spoon until most of the juice is removed. I then placed the mixture in a plastic pitcher, sealed it with the lid and placed it in the refrigerator.

I would make the wine that evening.

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 4

2008-04-08T05:03:00.000-07:00

Add the grape juice concentrate, the two cups of sugar syrup and three quarts of water to the bowl and stir them well. Next, add the fermenting yeast starter. Cover the bowl with a clean towel or other covering and allow to stand for four or five days. The ferment, in its initial vigor, will froth up, possibly overflowing the bowl if it is not big enough.

After the ferment has calmed down, using a funnel, pour the still fermenting wine into the gallon jug. Fit a piece of plastic food wrap over the mouth of the jug and secure with a rubber band. Place in a cool, dark area to ferment. The wine will take about two to three months to complete the fermentation process.

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - Standard Sugar Syrup

2008-04-03T06:37:00.000-07:00

It is helpful to dissolve the sugar in water before making the wine. To do this, you may use a recipe for standard sugar syrup, used by many home wine makers. To make sugar syrup, dissolve the sugar at a rate of two cups of sugar into one cup of water. Bring the water to a boil, then slowly add the sugar a cup or two at a time. Stir the solution until the syrup clears, then add more until it is all added.

The sugar syrup will clear when all the sugar has been dissolved. Allow the solution to cool. One cup of standard sugar syrup is equivalent to one half pound of sugar.

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate - 2

2008-03-31T06:56:00.000-07:00

The first step in making wine from a grape concentrate, or any other fruit concentrate, is to gather your materials. For a one gallon batch of wine you will need twenty four ounces of grape concentrate, one pound of sugar, one tablespoon of wine yeast and about a gallon of water.

In addition to the ingrediants you will need the following supplies. A plastic or glass bowl or other container safe for food products which will hold more than one gallon. A plastic or glass funnel. An eight or twelve ounce drinking glass, a one gallon glass or food rated plastic jug, a bit of plastic wrap and a rubber band. Save the cap from the jug for use later. If you use a vinegar jug to make the wine from concentrate in, make sure it is rinsed very, very well.

Once you have these materials on hand, make up a yeast starter. Dissolve one tablespoon of sugar in the drinking glass filled with warm water. Make sure the water is just lukewarm, and not hot. Now pour the wine yeast into the glass and cover with a paper towel secured with a rubber band. Place this glass in a warm spot for a few hours. After the yeast has begun fermenting you will see a white foam on top of the water. Now you are ready to make your grape concentrate wine.

Making Wines From Grape Concentrate

2008-03-26T07:25:00.000-07:00

Drinking wine is a very pleasurable experience, and making the wine you drink can be even more enjoyable. After a long hiatus from this wonderful hobby, I recently began making wine again. Since I started in January, finding grapes to make wine with, I opted to make wine using a frozen grape concentrate. Since wine grape concentrates are not readily available locally, I decided to use frozen Concord grape juice concentrate from the grocers freezer display.

I have done this before, but it has been a long, long time. The wine made using this procedure is quite acceptable for a vin ordinaire. Making wine from concentrate is a pretty easy process, and you don't need a lot of fancy equipment. The next several entries will cover this fun little project in detail. When finished, you will be able to make wine from grape, or any other fruit juice concentrate, quickly and easily.

US Mint History In Your Pocket Childrens Coin Section

2008-03-24T05:15:00.000-07:00

The United States Mint maintains very good section for children on their web page. Fun history, coin cartoons, games, news and more. Good place for kids to learn about coins, history, coin collecting and more.

Coin Collecting - American Eagle Silver Dollar

2008-03-19T06:42:00.000-07:00

The United States Mint has announced that American Eagle Silver uncirculated coins are available to buy on their web site. The coins have the "W" mint mark, testimony to their striking at the West Point mint. The American Eagle Silver Dollar coin is billed as the collector's version of the bullion version of this silver dollar and has a similiar finish. The 2008 American Eagle One Ounce Silver Uncirculated Coin's official beginning sales date is March 17, 2008 and any orders placed before that time will not be honored. You may buy this new coin issue at the United States Mint web site.

Kite History - World War 2

2008-03-04T12:31:00.000-08:00

As late as World War II, kites had a role to play in warfare. Sauls' Barrage Kite was a sort of double box kite which was a strong, stable flying kite. A man named Harry Sauls designed the kite to be used to fly advertising banners over tourist areas. The kite found a use during World War 2 as a means of protecting merchant ships from enemy airplane attacks. A wire, similiar to piano wire, was used to hold the kite aloft over the ship. The wire was invisible to enemy warplanes and was strong enough to destroy the prop or cut off a wing. Strategically placed, these kites deterred enemy dive bomber attacks. In addition, explosives or bombs were attached to the wires to further deter attack.

Lieutenant Commander Paul E. Garber served on the aircraft carrier USS Block Island during World War 2. An avid kite flyer, he watched as the carriers gunnery crews practiced target shooting using clouds as targets. He decided to find a better method, so he built a kite and threw the gauntlet down to the gun crews. Hit the kite, was the challenge. The gunnery crews found this to be a difficult task. The ships captain, seeing the improvement in the accuracy of the gun crews shooting, ordered Garber to build more kites for target practice. He eventually came up with a design which allowed him to mimic an airplane's movements as it approached the ship. It became standard practice for gun crews to use kites to practice and much credit is given to the target kites saving many ships due to the gunnery crews improved accuracy.

Another device used during the war was called the Gibson Girl. It consisted of a box kite, antennea, and hand crank radio. It was packed in with life rafts, to be used in an emergency. The kite both acted as a beacon to signal rescue aircraft to the location of the raft, and as a support for the antennae. The hand cranked radio, of course, was used to signal rescuers.

History of Kites - World War I

2008-03-03T07:18:00.000-08:00

During World War I, kites were used for various military purposes. The French assembled a kite corps which consisted of a trailer, car and a motor driven winch which was used for observation. Kites were used by infantry divisions of all the combatants to observe enemy positions. When the airplane came into general use, these divisions were disbanded.

The kite continued to be useful at sea. Germany devised a box kite which would fit in a U Boat to be used at sea. An observer elevated on a kite to an altitude of 400 feet can see almost 250 miles over open ocean. Similiar systems were used on sea going warships of other nations.

History of the Kite - The Wright Brothers

2008-02-29T08:28:00.000-08:00

In 1899 the Wright brothers designed and built a special box kite to use to test and develope their theories about controlling the flight of an aircraft. This was a biplane box kite about six feet long, fifteen inches wide and about fifteen inches tall. All the framework was hinged to allow it to twist. The kite was controlled from the ground with four strings tied to strategic places on the frame. Using this system, they developed ways to control the kites ability to bank right and left, dive and climb.

They designed and built several kites using this design, always perfecting the design and gaining more control. Using these kites as models they constructed a glider in 1900. This glider had the capacity to carry a man, but the brothers decided to test it before flying in it themselves. They did not want to suffer the same fate as Lilianthal, who died flying one of his gliders. The glider was flown like a kite at first, using the ground control system they had developed for the box kites.

All of this experimenting led, of course, to their eventual success on December 12, 1903.

Kite History - The Telegraph

2008-02-28T06:55:00.000-08:00

Guglielmo Marconi used kites in his developement of the wireless telegraph system. On Dec. 12, 1901 Marconi and his team used a kite constructed from a wood frame and sail cloth. It had a hemp mooring cord attached to a wooden pole. A 600 foot long was also attached to the pole, with a lead going to the radio shack in which Marconi had his receiving apparatus. The kite most probably was a Levitor kite, which was well known among kite flyers for its lifting capabilities.

The originating transmission came from a tower located near St. John's, Newfoundland. shortly after noon, after much trial and tribulation, the signal was tapped out in New Foundland and received at Marconi's kite held antennae and the era of wireless trans-Atlantic radio communications had begun.

History of Kites - Torpedoes

2008-02-27T08:18:00.000-08:00

Admiral Sir Arthur Cochrane during the Crimean War devised some new weapons to be used against the Russian. These included explosion vessels and stink ships, which were ships loaded with coke and sulphur which, when ignited, would emit a suffocating fog.

Another of his schemes was the use of twelve foot kites towing torpedoes into enemy ships. The method was successfully implemented in practice runs, but was found to be impractical in actual use. The reason being that prevailing winds and the location of enemy ships were not always favorable.

Ben Franklin And His Kite

2008-02-26T15:42:00.000-08:00

Kites have also contributed to the pioneering efforts in the scientific field of electricity. Most people have heard of Benjamin Franklin's kite experiment. The story has entered into American legend. He flew the kite during the early stages of an electric storm, when he felt that electric power was building in the clouds, but before actual lightning was produced. being produced.

He designed a kite specifically to draw electricity from the clouds which was made from silk instead of paper so it would withstand the rain without tearing. The kite had a pointed wire arising from the frame, which gathered electricity from the overhead storm clouds. As the storm wettened the kite and silk string, they were able to conduct the electricity to a key he hung near the ground. He stood inside a building so the end of silk he held did not get wet, and thus conduct the charge to him. The key became electrified, and sparked with electricity. He used the electricity to charge a Leyden Jar, which is a capacitor, which had been recently invented.

Franklin conducted many experiments with electricity during his lifetime, and made many contributions to the budding science. The kite helped him form some theories about it and learn something of its nature.

History of the Kite

2008-02-25T07:47:00.002-08:00

During this same period, in America, another novel use for kites was found. In 1845, a bridge across the Niagara Gorge above the falls was envisioned. The Falls had become a huge tourist attraction and developers imagined huge profits if a bridge above it could be constructed. But in an age before helicopters how do you stretch a cable across an eight hundred foot gorge which towers over two hundred feet above a treacherous rapids.

Kites were suggested by one engineer. And from this the idea of the Niagara Gorge Kite Contest was born. In January 1848 the contest commenced. After several failed attempts, young Homan Walsh succeeded on January 30, 1848. His prize was about ten dollars. With a kite line now across the gorge, it was used to pull a stronger line across. Then a rope was attached to this line and pulled across. Finally, a steel cable was pulled across. This cable paved the way for the first cable car to cross the gorge, then a suspension bridge later that same year.

History of Kites - Carriages

2008-02-22T06:14:00.001-08:00

George Pocock a few years later did a lot of experimenting with kites. Pocock was an inventor and schoolteacher from Bristol, England. He started his experiments using kites to lift weights. Starting with small stones, he gradually worked his way up to using a specially designed chair to first lift his daughter, then his son, into the air in 1825. He used the kite to place his son on the top of a high cliff on the English coast. His son dismounted, then remounted and returned safely to the earth.

Perhaps the most interesting idea he came up with was kite drawn carriages. In 1826 he designed a device he called the Charvolant (from the French char for carriage attached to volant from the French term for kite: cerf-volant). This was a fairly elaborate kite drawn carriage complete with steering and braking capability. He achieved speeds of up to twenty miles an hour with this vehicle and easily overtook horse drawn carriages with it. He even undertook a 113 mile trip through the English countryside with it.

History Of Kites - Meteorology

2008-02-21T07:50:00.001-08:00

Alexander Wilson was a Scottish astronomer and meteorolgist and was one of the founding members of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. He lived from 1714 - 1719 and made numerous contributions to astronomy and meteorology. Dr. Wilson was the first scientist to use kites as a scientific tool.

In 1749, while a professor at the University of Glasgow, he attached thermometers to a string of kites and measured the air temperatures at different altitudes. He managed to record temperatures as high as 3000 feet. He was assisted in this endeavor by a student named Thomas Melville. The thermometers were attached to the kite with a fuse. When the fuse burned out, the thermometer was released and parachuted back to earth using paper brushes. The temperature at various altitudes was successfully recorded using this method.

History of the Kite

2008-02-20T06:14:00.000-08:00

Sir George Cayley (1773-1857) was the first person to study the science of aerodynamics seriously. He is considered by many to be the "Father of Aerodynics." Scarbourgh, England was the place of his birth. He was an English baronet and inventor who created the basic design of the modern aircraft.

The first aircraft Cayley built was a kite type craft with a movable tail. The kite flew quite successfully for a ten year period, 1799 - 1809, Cayley experimented extensively with kites. It was during this period that he developed many of his designs for his later work.

Kites - A History

2008-02-19T14:46:00.000-08:00

Regardless of where the kite originated, kite flying and building spread slowly across the world from its home in Asia. Marco Polo, a famous thirteenth century explorer and merchant, wrote extensively about kites when he returned to his home in Italy in 1295. Kites in Europe were made from parchment and were inititially regarded as childrens toys.

This perception slowly changed over the ensuing centuries as military strategists and the budding interest in science saw their potential. The kite evolved over time to become a weapon, surveilance tool and scientific instrument as well as serve as a valuable precursor to the beginnings of controlled, heavier than air flight by humans.

History of Kites - Malaysia

2008-02-18T07:08:00.000-08:00

China is usually mentioned as the originator of the kite. This is mostly because the Chinese learned how to weave silk into cloth and thread and had bamboo available which is an ideal framework for kites. But a case can be made that Malaysia was the first place in history where kites were flown.

Malaysia has a very long tradition of kite flying. Their first kites were made from leaves using bamboo as a structural material. Leaf kites are still flown there. There are many trees there with very large leaves. And it is easy to imagine that leaves flying in the wind could have inspired the first kite builders.

History of Kites - Thailand

2008-02-15T09:13:00.000-08:00

Kites were introduced to Thailand from China. The Thais used them to carry cargo, developed the sport of kite fighting and and used the kites to send messages to the gods. A Thai king may also used kites to deliver the first aerial bombing in history. He had kegs of gunpowder tied to kites, flew them over a rebel fortification and the resulting explosions caused the rebels to give up and surrender.

History of Kites - Japan

2008-02-14T17:12:00.000-08:00

Another country in which the kite became important was Japan. According to legend, Buddhist monks brought kite technology to Japan during the Nara Period, which lasted from about 649-794 AD. By 981 AD the word "paper hawk" or "Kami Tobi" appeared in the Japanese language. The name suggests that most Japanese kites were bird shaped.

The Japanese developed many useful uses for kites. They were used to lift roofing tiles and other building materials to the tops of shrines and other buildings under construction. There are many legends involving kites as well. An Icarus type tale with a happy ending involves a twelfth century Japanese warrior and his son who was exiled to an island. The son grew lonely and the father, sympathetic to his son's plight, built a huge kite which the son rode to escape to the mainland.

One Japanese tradition involves the carp and kites. When a new son is born, a carp shaped kite is flown. May 5 is Boys Day in Japan and parents fly carp shaped kites in equal number to the sons which they have. In Japan the carp is the symbol of courage and strength. This is because the carp must swim upstream past many obstacles to reach its spawning grounds.

Kites In Chinese History

2008-02-07T09:11:00.000-08:00

The kite became very important in Chinese culture. They developed many different types, some even having bamboo whistles attached to them which whistle in the wind. As such, the kite has taken on much religious and philosophical symbolism.

Flying a kite is believed to bring good luck, and the higher the kite flies the more luck it brings. Kites are also flown to ward off evil spirits.

Marco Polo wrote about the Chinese custom which merchants used a kite to tell them if ships should be launched on a voyage. They would find an intoxicated man, tie him to a kite and fly the kite over the harbor. If the kite flew well, the ships were launched. If the kite crashed into the sea, the boats were kept in port.

Kite making in China is a very advanced art. Most designs found on kites symbolize something important in Chinese culture. Some are for good luck, others harmony, still others power and prosperity. Today there are many kite festivals in China which celebrate the kite and its importance in Chinese culture.

History of Kites

2008-02-05T14:57:00.000-08:00

Kites were used by the Chinese early in their history to gain military advantages over their enemies. Han Hsin of the Han Dynasty used a kite to help him capture a city. The kite was flown over the city and allowed to go over the city's walls. The line was marked and the kite hauled in. Next, a tunnel was dug, using the kite's line as a guide to the length the tunnel needed to be to enter the city under the wall. His troops thus were able to surprise the enemy from within the city and it fell.

Kites were also used militarily in other ways. Observers were lifted up into the air to spy on enemy troop positions. Some were used to lift fireworks into the air to confuse and terrify enemy troops in battle. Different shapes of kites were flown to send certain types of messages to troops during battle, and some were flown after being set on fire to deliver other types of messages. The history of kites used in battle is a long and storied one.

Who Invented the Kite?

2008-02-01T15:40:00.000-08:00

Two Chinese philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are the legendary inventors of the kite.

Lu Ban, according to tradition, built a wooden bird model which had the ability to stay aloft for up to three days. He lived during the fifth century BC, and this is the period during which kites were thought to be invented. His real name was Gongshu Ban, he was born in the Chinese state of Lu. In addition to being a master carpenter he was also a philosopher, military thinker, and statesman. Lu Ban was a contemporary of Mozi.

Mozi was a trained engineer and master craftsman who designed and built everything from mechanical birds to weapons of war. Later in his life he became a pacifist who went to great lenths to discourage Chinese rulers from warfare.

These two Chinese craftsmen are the lengendary inventors of the kite. There are records of kites being flown in 559 BC in China, so this could be true.

When Were Kites Invented?

2008-01-30T06:41:00.000-08:00

Around 400 BC, the Chinese discovered how to build a kite. The Chinese had all the ingredients for the early kites. Silk was used for both the lightweight fabric needed to make the sail, and silk thread had the combined qualities of being both strong and lightweight making it ideal for the line. Bamboo, being both strong and light, made an ideal material for the framework.

Two Chinese philosophers, Mozi and Lu Pan, are the legendary inventors of the kite. Mozi was a trained engineer, Lu Ban a carpenter. Lu Ban, according to tradition, built a wooden bird model which had the ability to stay aloft for up to three days. So during the fifth century BC is thought to be when kites were invented.

The Chinese had a variety of uses for the kite. It was used to measure distances, as a signal, lifting men aloft, and as a military communication system. They were also used to test weather conditions, religious ceremonies, and recreation. When kites were invented, it didn't take the Chinese long to find uses for them.

2008 New Kites

2008-01-24T06:31:00.000-08:00

Vision Stunt Kite
The vision stunt kite, from Premier Kites, is an entry level stunt kite which was extensively tested by master sport kite designer Jon Trennepohl. It has a wing span of over five feet and needs a wind range of five to twenty miles per hour. It has a fiberglass frame and ripstop nylon sail. The kite includes seventy five feet of flying line.

2008 New Rockets - Der Red Max

2008-01-22T18:15:00.000-08:00

This is an old favorite which has been redesigned and returned. Der Red Max is sixteen inches long and will fly up to 577 feet high. This skill level one kit has laser cut balsa fins, a molded plastic nose cone and the Freaky Red Max decal sheet. The design of the rocket allows a very stable flight, giving very good performance. RECOMMENDED ENGINES - B4-4, B6-4, C6-5 OR C6-7

2008 New Rockets Interceptor

2008-01-18T06:26:00.000-08:00

The Interceptor was one of Estes most popular kits. They have redesigned it and brought it back. Laser cut balsa parts, a highly detailed nose cone and a five color decal sheet makes this new release easy to build and highly realistic. The rocket is twenty-six inches long and uses B4-2, B6-4 or C6-5 model rocket engines.

2008 New Rockets - D-Region Tomahawk

2008-01-17T06:50:00.000-08:00

The D-Region Tomahawk was developed by NASA to study the sun during the International Quiet Sun Year. The International Quiet Sun Year was an international cooperative effort during the years 1964 through 1965. The purpose of the International Quiet Sun Year was to study the sun and its terrestrial and planetary effects during the quiet period of the eleven year solar cycle.
The rocket was tested four times, after which NASA decided not to use the rocket. It was launched once in 1968, to the D-Region of the ionosphere, which is the uppermost layer of the atmosphere. The D-Region is approximatily thirty-one to sixty miles above the earth.
This rocket has been accurately replicated as an Estes model rocket. The model is thirty-eight inches long and flies to an altitude of 787 feet. It uses either a D12-5 or an E9-6 model rocket engine.

2008 New Rockets

2008-01-16T05:41:00.000-08:00

Imagine if the young Steven Spielburg could have combined model rocketry with movie making! Now you can with the Estes Astrovision. You can take either movies or still photos from this rocket in flight. The movies or pictures can be downloaded into your computer using the software and USB cable which are included in with the rocket. It uses engines B4-2 or C6-3 and flies to an altitude of 300 feet.

2008 New Rockets

2008-01-15T18:22:00.000-08:00

The Estes Converter can be converted to three different rocket sizes. This E2X rocket has a screw together body design. It can fly up to 750 feet into the air with a C size engine. The maximum length is 38.5 inches and it uses an 18 inch parachute for recovery. Recommended engines - B6-4, B4-4, B6-2, B6-4, C6-5 or C6-3

2008 New Rockets

2008-01-14T08:07:00.000-08:00

Estes has an interesting array of new rockets available now. One of these is the Pop Fly. A ball sits on top of the rocket during its flight upward. At the rockets apogee, the ball pops off creating a challenge for those on the ground to catch it before it hits the ground. The rocket is 24 inches tall and requiers a B4-2, B-4, or C63 engine.

History of the Wright Flyer

2008-01-01T07:33:00.000-08:00

The story of the first heavier than air aircraft, "Flyer 1", as dubbed by its inventors Orville and Wilbur Wright, is a fascinating saga. Orville and Wilbur Wright were successful businessmen, printers by trade, in Dayton, Ohio. There they published the West Side News, which was edited by Wilbur. They followed this success by opening a bicycle shop in 1992. In this shop they began selling bicycles made by tools which they had invented.

The Wrights had been fascinated with the idea of flight since they were boys. The studied the progress of Otto Lienthal and others working on the science of avation at the time. And the bicycle shop provided them with a place to design and build gliders, which they began testing at Kitty Hawk, North Carolina in 1900. The location was a place called Kill Devil Hill, the first test flight coming in more...

New Pinewood Derby Catalog

2007-12-28T06:14:00.000-08:00

Our Pine Wood Derby Catalog has been updated. Visit this link to see the exciting new products.

Build A Train Layout

2007-12-26T11:58:00.000-08:00

Train sets are a popular Christmas gift for many kids and adults. A train layout is a wonderful second step for this gift. A layout can be an excercise for the imagination and a creative outlet.
The train layout can be just about any size, depending upon the scale of the model. If care and planning are part of the process a layout can be realistic, educational and just plain fun. For a full set of articles explaining how to build one, visit this link.

Homemade Candle Making

2007-05-18T03:32:00.000-07:00

The candle maker was an essential part of village life for thousands of years, and the candle has played an important role in our society. In an age of electric lights, candles are no longer a fundamental need, but they still play a therapeutic role in our society. The candle provides light, fragrance, and a classic atmosphere to our homes, businesses, and places of worship.

Homemade Candle making is a fascinating hobby for those who choose to pursue it. The hobbyist can craft many types of candles right in the home. This article will cover some simple candle making tips and ideas for home candle making. There are simple candles which can be made in just a few minutes, suitable as a project for children. Modern materials have simplified the candle making process so that nice candles can be melted, wicked, and poured in under an hour. You will find many good books on the subject at your craft or hobby store.....

A Brief History Of Candle Making

2007-04-25T04:16:00.000-07:00

Flip a switch and turn on a light! If there is one thing about modern life we really take for granted, it is indoor electric lighting. Imagine, if you will, a home in the Middle Ages. It is night, and the day’s hard work is done. A single candle lights the interior of the room. This candle provides light for the family’s night time activities. It occupies a distinguished position in human history. The candle is one of mankind’s earliest inventions. The history of candle making is a long and interesting story.

Pine Wood Derby Car Kits and Blocks

2007-01-17T04:40:00.000-08:00

Building a pine wood derby car seems like a daunting task to the novice. But it can actually be a fun and easy project. When searching for a car to build you will find three basic types of pine cars to build - unfinished blocks, precut blocks, and deluxe kits.
Unfinished blocks are for the builder wishing for a bit more of a challenge. The precut blocks are already shaped, the blocks need a bit of final shaping with sandpaper. These are for the pine car builder without the tools or skills to cut a car out from a block of wood. Deluxe kits contain a pre-cut block, decals, weights and everything needed to build the kit except paint.

Building The Pine Wood Derby Car

2007-01-10T07:24:00.000-08:00

Building and racing pine wood derby cars is an event sponsored by many Cub Scout troops. But it is an interesting hobby which can be done by anyone who likes to carve wood and has an interest in cars. Racing the pine car can be a fun event for any youth group or a fun activity for the neighborhood kids. With the right planning, materials, and information, building the pinewood derby car can be a fun and rewarding experience.
Many times, both parent and child, upon opening the kit wonder, How in the world can we turn this plain block of wood into a beautiful speedster capable of winning a race.

Steps In Building A Plastic Model Kit

2006-10-19T15:49:00.000-07:00

Model Building Hobby Knife

Building plastic models is a fascinating hobby in which you will find just about any model classification to suit your interests. There are many types of models from which to choose - cars, boats, airplanes, to mention just a few.

Whatever model you choose to build, the basic steps to successfully construct it are the same. Master the steps, and anyone can build really nice models.

The first step is - and get ready for this - Read The Instructions! Make sure you understand what's involved before you start building. Assemble the tools and supplies you will need to complete the model. Some items needed for successful assembly - paint, model glue, hobby knife, tweezers, toothpicks, sprue or fingernail clippers, building board, wax paper, paper towels, paintbrush, and paint thinner. Choose a work area out of the way of other activities. The model will require a little time to build, and you don't want it in the way of other activities. Alternatively, assemble on a building board which can be moved under a bed or other storage area between building sessions.

Open the parts bags, and carefully spread them out on a flat surface near your work area - do not cut any parts from sprues at this time! The sprue many times has identifying numbers on it to help you identify the part. Using the parts list included in the instructions, find and identify each part. If any are missing, call the manufacturer. Information you will need is the model number and part number. The model number can be found on the side of the box, and the part number is found on the plans. Most model manufacturers have 800 numbers listed in the plans to call for missing parts. The part will be shipped to you free, but may take a couple of weeks.

Now, carefully wash the model in warm water in which a small amount of dish soap has been dissolved. This is to remove the mold release manufacturers use to pop the model parts from the mold during the manufacturing process. If it's not removed, paint and glue may not adhere properly to the model. Rinse and allow the parts to air dry or dry with a hair dryer set on LOW if you want to begin work immediately.

If you are going to paint the model, now is the time to decide which parts to paint before assembly, and which parts should be assembled first, and then painted. Study the instructions to help with this step. A good rule of thumb is - small parts are usually best painted on the sprue, and larger parts and body parts are best painted after assembly. Most models are easier to build if they are built and painted in steps. Motors and other small assemblies should be assembled and painted, then installed in the model frame. The model body is assembled, painted and the smaller parts added. Think of the completed model as a series of small models which must be painted and assembled first. These smaller models are then used to construct the larger, finished model.

Once the plastic model is completed, the decals are applied. Cut them singly from the sheet and apply where the instructions depict. A drop of water placed on the model before the decal is placed will make it easier to move the decal into final position.

It's important to use the proper materials when painting and gluing the model. Model paints are formulated for plastic models. The pigments in these paints are also ground extremely fine, to give them scale thickness. Other paints will cause the model to be out of scale, or worse, possibly 'melt' the plastic because the solvents in it are not compatible with the plastic.

Model cements are best to use, because they will melt the plastic together, creating a stronger bond. Model cements are available in an odor free, non-toxic formula for younger children.

Tools are just as important in model building as they are in any other endeavor. Use a hobby knife, fingernail clipper, or sprue cutter to cut parts from sprue - don't just tear them off. A neat cut will be achieved with one of these tools. Test all parts before assembly - trim flash and shave parts carefully as needed to ensure a perfect fit. Spread glue on parts with a paintbrush, or toothpick for an even coat. Use glue sparingly to cut down on sanding after assembly and before painting.

Now it's time to display the completed model! Car models may be displayed in clear acrylic model cases. These protect the model from dust and inquisitive fingers. The cases stack for easy storage. Airplane models may be hung from the ceiling in realistic dives, or placed on the display stands which come with many of them. Boat models frequently are too big for display cases, but usually come with their own display stands. All plastic models may be displayed in a diorama. This is a scene constructed specifically for the model, to place it in a realistic setting.

Building Plastic Model Kits - Hobby For Many Interest

2006-08-24T18:04:00.000-07:00

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Model building is one of the most popular hobbies, and it's easy to see why. A lot of satisfaction is derived from building and displaying plastic models. Most hobbyists specialize and form collections of the types of models that interest them. If you love automobiles, you will find a model for just about any kind of car you enjoy. Aviation enthusiasts can own the plane, or planes, of their dreams. Military buffs can choose from a large selection of military figures, boats, and armor.

Automobile models are by far the most popular model to build. Many people enjoy building a model of their first car. If you have a favorite car, and can't afford the real thing - why not build a plastic model of it? Some hobbyists enjoy building certain classes of the cars that interest them . Sports cars, classic cars, antique cars, race cars, trucks, muscle cars - the list of cars available as models is endless. The model kits are highly detailed, and many can be built two or three different ways.

Military veterans and aficionados may enjoy building and collecting military aircraft. These hobbyists will find virtually every type and class of military airplane ever made. All major conflicts in which aircraft played a role are represented - World War I, World War II, Vietnam, Korea, Desert Storm. Plastic Models of commercial and small aircraft may also be built.

Ships of the high seas can also be modeled. Most model boat kits are military ships, exceptions being made for the Titanic and some other odds and ends. Modern aircraft carriers, World War II battleships and carriers are the most prevalent model kits offered. Maritime classics like the USS Constitution and the Bounty are also fun to build.

Superhero and classic movie models are now becoming popular, with figures like the Hulk, Spiderman, and Storm. Polar Lights is bringing back some of the classic kits from the 60's by Aurora. These plastic model kits feature scenes from old television shows and movies like Addams Family Living Room, The Bride Of Frankenstein, and The Wolfman. These kits are neat, and collectable.

It's easy and fun to get started building plastic models. Kits can be found in varying levels to match the proficiency of the model builder. Snap kits, or skill level one, are ideal starter kits for kids or adults. Little or no glue is needed and there are not a lot of parts to deal with. These models don't need to be painted, but they can be, if desired. Cars and airplanes can both be found as snap kits. Most of the car kits have rolling wheels, which means the car can be played with when completed.

Skill Level Two and Three kits have increasingly more details and parts. These kits necessarily require more gluing and painting. With patience, and acquired skill, anyone can build museum quality models for display.

Revell/Monogram and AMT Ertl in recent years have begun to offer Deluxe Kits. These kits are wonderful birthday and Christmas gifts, because they contain all the paint and glue needed for assembly. A paint brush is also included in the kit.

There are many more kinds of plastic models that can be covered in this column. Model building as a hobby is useful and educational, as many models can add a sense of realism to history lessons. Space and science fiction models may spur an interest in astronomy and space science.

Balsa - Basswood And Other Hobby and Craft Woods

2006-08-23T17:12:00.000-07:00

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Many hobbies involve building, carving, or woodburning, And require speciality woods. Hobby woods are available for just about any purpose. Hobbyists may choose from balsa, basswood, plywood, walnut, cherry, and maple for their project needs. Sheets or strips of these fine woods are available in thicknesses from 1/32 " to one inch, and in widths from 1/16 through six inches. You may purchase either sheets or strips.

Balsa is the most versatile of the hobby woods. Native to South America these sixty foot trees are grown on large plantations. The wood is lightweight and strong. South Americans have been using balsa for boat and raft building since antiquity. Anyone who can recall Thor Heyerdahl's Kon Tiki adventures will know of his successful attempt to reach the Polynesian Islands from South America on a balsa raft.

Balsa's fine grain combined with its strength and light weight have made it valuable for a great number of uses. Its heat retention ability has made it useful for insulating refrigerator and ship holds. It is used in aircraft to reduce vibration. Surfboards and life preservers have also been manufactured from balsa wood.

Crafters and hobbyists find balsa very easy to cut and carve, making it ideal for a multitude of projects. It can also be painted or stained any color the hobbyist desires. Its greatest value for hobbyists is undoubtedly in the construction of model airplanes. Free flight , control line, and radio control aircraft are all made primarily from balsa wood. Other uses for this versatile wood include model boat building and dollhouse construction, as well as many other craft projects. Model railroaders can use balsa for scratch-building houses and other structures, bridges, and structural support for scenery.

Basswood, or linden, is another wood crafters and hobbyists find very useful. This North American wood is grown primarily in northern Michigan and Wisconsin. Heavier than balsa, it shares many of it's characteristics - close-grained, strong, and lightweight. Basswood's hobby uses mirror those of balsa, but its heavier weight limits its use in building model airplanes. Because it carves easily, it is the premier choice for both beginning and advanced woodcarvers. Novice woodburners will also find basswood friendly, as it burns well. Like balsa, it is available in strips and sheets. Additionally, specialty shapes for dollhouse building include molding, siding, and roof shingles.

Special project needs may require the use of hobby plywoods. These extremely high quality plywoods range in thickness from paper thin 1/32 of an inch to 1/4 inch. The plywood consists of birch, so it can take any stain desired. It is very durable and suitable for many uses.

Other woods are available for specialized hobby projects, including walnut, maple, cherry, and mahogany. Twenty four inch lengths include both strips and sheets. The maximum width for sheets is four inches.

Basswood and balsa are the most commonly available hobby/craft woods. Other types may be special ordered from your local hobby shop. Check out the selection today for all your project needs.

Relief Wood Carving - Craft For Beginner

2006-08-22T18:19:00.000-07:00

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Woodworking as a hobby could be enjoyable to many more people if it were not for the space and expense required to set up a fully equipped woodshop. One way to enjoy wood crafts without taking up a lot of valuable household space, and busting your budget is to take up relief woodcarving. Woodcarving can be a bit messy, so a designated work area is advisable But this area need not be large. Indeed, a small worktable in a garage, basement, or utility area is about all that's needed.

A minimum of tools are required for this hobby. Two or three Xacto knife handles, an assortment of blades, some sandpaper, wood sealer, graphite or white transfer paper, and a pattern are all that's needed to get started. Other materials required are common household items, such as scissors, cellophane tape, and ball point pen. Later on you can add paints, brushes, and other items needed for more advanced carving projects.

Relief wood carving is easy to learn. The Xacto tools mentioned are ideal for the beginner because they do not need to be sharpened. Merely discard the blade when it gets dull and replace with a new one. The two or three different types of handles will hold all the cutting and carving blades you will need . Xacto manufactures dozens of different blades for a myriad of uses, including chisels, knives, gouges, and routers.

There are six different basic cuts in relief wood carving. Using these cuts the hobbyist methodically carves out the design. Basswood is the wood of choice for the beginner, as it carves very easily. Later on, as techniques are improved, harder woods can be worked. Walnut Hollow Farm has an excellent beginner's book - Creative Woodcarving - which covers tools, techniques, and patterns in greater detail. Xacto's Woodcarving Video is also a good source of carving information.

Prepare the wood by sanding to a smooth finish with a fine grade of sandpaper. after sanding, the pattern is transferred to the wood with graphite or white transfer paper. Use graphite paper for light woods, and white transfer paper for dark woods. Tape the pattern and transfer paper to the wood with masking tape. Trace the pattern on the wood with a fine point pen.

The working surface for carving should be sturdy and at a comfortable height for the carver. It is important that the tools be sharp for all phases of the carving project . If tools are dull, it will cause the carver to try to force the tool through the wood. Injury is possible if the tool slips. Dull tools also tear the wood, instead of cutting it. By using Xacto tools, the hobbyist can maintain sharp tools by merely changing the blade.

The hobbyist can create some really beautiful projects by combining woodcarving and wood burning. The pattern is first carved and sanded. Replace the pattern and transfer paper on the carving, and trace in the details to be burned into the carving. Highlight key features with the wood burning pen, and apply a coat of wood sealer to protect the design. The hobbyist may also use paint or stain to add a flair to the carving.

Relief wood carving is a wonderful hobby. And you don't need a large expensive workshop to create some fantastic works of art with a little practice. This is a great craft for the beginner!

Tips For The Wood Burning Art and Craft

2006-08-21T18:54:00.000-07:00

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Wood Craft Index
Tip # 1 Use an asbestos pad or ceramic tile to set your pen on while it is in use.

Tip # 2 Test the burning speed on the back of the wood you are using to perfect your technique before starting.

Tip # 3 Clean the woodburning tip frequently with an extra-fine sandpaper to prevent residue buildup.

Tip # 4 Finish sand the wood with an extra-fine sandpaper before tracing the wood burning pattern. Wipe off the sawdust before tracing the design.

Tip # 5 Trace the design to the wood using either graphite or white transfer paper. Use graphite paper on lighter woods, white transfer paper on dark woods.

Tip # 6 Outline the design with the universal point.

Tip # 7 Shade and create other special effects using other specialized points.

Tip # 8 If desired, you can color the design with colored pencils designed for wood.

Tip # 9 Coat the finished design with a good sealer - Acrylic is the easiest to use.

Tip # 10 Lightly sand the design.

Tip # 11 If desired, apply gloss, matte, or satin acrylic varnish.

More Wood Burning Tips Don’t touch the tip of the pen, or the ceramic base when the pen is in use. It is very hot!
The line you are burning gets darker when you go slow, lighter when you go fast.
Move the wood around as you work to make easier to use the pen.
It’s best to burn light, and go back to darken later, if desired.
Erase all transfer lines before sealing the design.
Hold the pen lightly. A heavy grip tires the hand, and causes it to get hot.
Color the wood after you seal. It’s easier to erase paint if you do make a mistake.

Tools Needed For The Craft Of Wood Burning

2006-08-17T18:24:00.000-07:00

The tool list for wood burning is not extensive, nor is the space requirements for the hobby great. A small tackle box or similiar storage case will easily hold your tools, the compartments used to keep the various wood burning tips separate and organized. You will enjoy the craft more if you can keep your wood burning implements all together.
Tools and Items Needed For Woodburning

Pattern
Wood
Scissors
Ball Point Pen
Graphite Or White Transfer Paper - depending on the type of wood you are going to burn - dark wood needs white transfer paper, light wood needs graphite
Tape
Woodburning Pen
Fine Sandpaper
Wood Sealer
Wood finish
Wood burning Tips

There are many different tips available to create varying effects in your wood burning craft. The universal tip usually is included with the woodburner. It is fine for beginners, but as your skills advance more specialized tips may be useful to you.

Flow Point Tip
Use to burn curves, details, and in tight spots. The point is rounded, and creates a soft line.

Shading Point Tip
Use to shade portions of the design and for special effects. Adds depth and realism to the finished wood burning project

Universal Point
All purpose tip for creating lines, details, and contrast

Fine Touch Universal
Smaller version of the universal tip for more detailed work.

Mini-Flow Point
Good beginner tip. Easier to use than the Flow Tip.

Cone Point
Use for extra fine lines and detail work.

Calligraphy Point
Used for woodburning calligraphy letter styles.

Pens
21 Watt
Good beginner pen. Use for Basswood, pine, and soft woods.
26 Watt
This pens heats up to around 800 degrees. It will burn almost any wood. It may not be suitable for beginners because of higher heat. But this is the pen needed for the serious wood buring craft person.

As you progress in the craft of wood burning your skill will naturally improve and some of the projects can really be considered works of art. This is really a fun and fascinating hobby!

Wood Burning Craft - Fun Hobby For Limited Spaces

2006-08-10T15:36:00.000-07:00

Perhaps you, like many other people, have recently become interested in woodcrafts. Woodworkers have many activities which they can pursue - furniture and toy making being two examples. Although enjoyable, most woodshops require a lot of room, plus a fairly large investment in tools. One woodcraft hobby which requires little space, and only a modest investment in tools is wood burning. Although it would be helpful to have a designated area to work and store tools, this space need not be large. Indeed a small sturdy table would be sufficient for most projects.

Wood burning as an art is easy to learn! Start up needs are minimal - a wood burning pen with interchangeable points, patterns, graphite paper, sandpaper, and wood sealer. Most of the other materials you need are common household items. Walnut Hollow Farm's wood burning pens are the best choice. Two basic pens are available - twenty one watt and twenty six watt. The twenty six watt is for all types of wood, especially the harder ones. The twenty one watt is the ideal beginner's pen. It's best used on softer woods.

Burning techniques differ depending on the point used. The key is to start with a simple pattern and learn how to use the many different points before progressing on to intermediate and advanced designs. A very good series of books for the beginning wood burner is from Walnut Hollow Farm. Creative Woodburning Book One contains all the easy to learn basics, plus many patterns to get you started. The rest of the series contains more patterns and techniques in many different styles.

The best wood to start on is basswood because it burns easily. Many types of basswood are available, including ovals, rounds, planks, and barrel staves. Neat wooden boxes in many different styles can also make good projects. The wood surface to be burned must be very smooth for best results. Sand the wood to as fine a finish as possible with a very fine grade of sandpaper.

The pattern is transferred to the wood surface using either graphite or white transfer paper. Use graphite paper on light wood and white transfer paper on dark wood. The pattern and transfer paper are taped to the wood with masking tape and a fine point ball-point pen is used to trace the design on to the wood.

As mentioned earlier, there are many different techniques of burning and several woodburning tips to use with the pen to get different effects. In addition, the burnings can be colored with oil colored pencils, and oil paint wash. The combination of wood grain, woodburning technique, and oil paints creates some stunningly beautiful art.

The list of wood burning craft projects which can be burned is limitless. Burn designs on jewelry boxes, ring boxes, cutlery boxes, clocks, and furniture. Burn woodcarvings to lend a unique touch to your woodcraft projects. Wall hangings and picture frames are also good candidates for wood burning. Take your wood art to any level you desire! It is a very enjoyable hobby.

Thomas The Tank Engine Wooden Railway Train System

2006-07-26T15:23:00.000-07:00

The Thomas the Tank Engine Wooden Railway System is the most popular train system by far for children from age two and up. There is a large selection of colorful engines and cars, track, accessories. This is a very versitle system with a lot of play value.
The track, characters and accessories are constructed from hardwood and high impact
plastic. The toys are durable and long-lasting, creating a very cost effective
product.
Interactive play is encourages with the many operating accessories which include
cranes, sawmills, bridges, loaders, and other fun stuff. The track may be assembled
in an infinite variety of layouts quickly and easily, stimulating creative play.
Cars are easily connected with magnetic couplers and the clickity clack feature of
the track simulates the real sound of rails on track. The track is double sided,
so it’s impossible for the child to put it together wrong. All accessories are made
with large, sturdy cranks and knobs to make it easy for little hands to
operate it.
The Learning Curve Company which manufactures the line is constantly introducing new
accessories, characters, and other new additions each year. There are usually about
forty characters and a large number of bridges, tunnels, and other accessories
available.
The line includes a series of battery powered engines which work very well on
the wooden track. The engines also have magnetic couplers like the rest of the line,
making them compatable with the rest of the vehicles. The engines run both forward
and backward. These Express Sets include an engine, one car, and a piece of
track.
The easiest way to get started is to purchase a set. Sets are available in a variety
of sizes, themes, and price ranges. The most basic is the Circle Set which consists
of Thomas, some small accessories and a circle of track. The largest includes over
100 play pieces, a table, playboard, toybox. The most popular is the Stop and Go
Figure Eight Set which consists of a bridge, figure eight of track, Thomas and two
cars. A stop and Go Station is also included in this set.
This is an ideal toy for children and those who purchase gifts for them. The largness
of the line creates many gift opportunities for parents, grandparents, aunts and
uncles. There is a large amount of product in a variety of price ranges making it
fit just about any gift buying budget. Have fun with Thomas!

A Short History Of Thomas The Tank Engine Train

2006-07-25T15:32:00.000-07:00

WHO’S THIS THOMAS THE TANK FELLOW, ANYWAY

If you’re older than dirt, well, maybe older than about six, you may be a bit
clueless about this character called Thomas The Tank. Well, rest easy, because you
are about to be enlightened with a short history of the Thomas The Tank Engine
Train
Thomas The Tank Engine and his friends are the creation of Reverend Wilbert Awdry.
All great things have simple beginnings so it seems fitting that Thomas came to life
in the early 1940’s as a wooden toy which Reverend Awdry made for his son,
Christopher. Thomas joined Edward, Gordon, and Henry, already in young Christopher’s
toybox.
Christopher became ill with the measles and was bedridden for a while. Reverend
Awdry, drawing upon childhood memories of life around railways, made up stories
about the engines in Christopher’s toybox to keep the child amused. Of course,
children are sticklers for details in stories, and Reverend Awdry soon found he
had to write the stories down so he could remember them properly for each
re-telling.
The Reverend’s wife pressed him to try to get the stories published. Finally, she
told Reverend Awdry’s mother about the stories and she presented them to a cousin who
had ties with some literary agents. The stories at this time were just written on
scraps of paper. The agents found a publisher who liked them well enough to publish,
and the rest is history.
The stories about Thomas are based on actual happenings told by workers in the yards
to the Reverend when he was a young boy accompanying his father to the rail-yards .
As young Wilbert lay in bed at night he could hear the engines working the rails
near his home. He could imagine the engines having personalities, just like people.
The railroad kept a tank engine near his home, and this was the inspiration for the
later Thomas of the stories.
The stories are accurate in railroad operations and lore and can inform about railroad operation as well as entertain the reader.
Thomas and his friends work the railways of the island of Sodor, which is a fictional
island located in the Irish Sea, just off the coast of Britain. Thomas has the
responsibility of running a branch line, carrying passengers on the two coaches,
Annie and Clarebel, to the main line passenger service. Their adventures, written by
Reverend Awdry who wrote a book a year for twenty six years, have spawned the popular
PBS television series, video tapes, and now a big screen movie.
Thomas the Tank Engine has also spawned many popular children’s toys, the most
popular of which is the Wooden Railway System from Learning Curve. This seems
appropriate, since Thomas started life as a homemade wooden toy made by a doting
father for his son. The Wooden Railway System is an extensive line of very high
quality toys. Of course it contains Edward, Gordon, Henry, and a whole slew of other
characters needed to keep the busy Sodor rail lines running smoothly.
The train sets encourage creative play, and can help spur active imaginations. This
is a valuable thing in today’s computer driven world.
The history of how Thomas The Tank Engine is touching in its simplicity and by
the desire of a father to help his son through an illness.

State Quarter Program

2006-07-24T18:05:00.000-07:00

The State Quarter program was introduced by the US Mint in 1999. It is
a program which commemorates each state of the union's ratification of the
United States Constitution and entry into the Union. It would be
a rewarding accomplishment to form a collection of a quarter from each
of the 50 states.

The quarters will be introduced five per year, about ten weeks apart, for
a total of ten years until each state's entry has been commemorated. The
quarters will be introduced in order of the states admission to the Union.
The quarter's obverse will retain the bust of George Washington in the
design. It is the reverse of the coin which will change.

Each state’s governor will set the criteria for the design of its quarter.
The design, after it is chosen, will be submitted to the Mint by the
governor. The Mint will then adapt the design to the quarter and produce
the coin.

The coins will be produced for circulation by two of the operating mints -
Philadelphia and Denver. This will be marked by a small "D" or "P" under
the "In God We Trust" logo to the right of General Washington's bust. It
will take one coin from each mint, or 100 coins in all, to complete the set.

For more information about the quarter and a release schedule visit the
US Mint at the following link:

>
US Mint State Quarter Factsheet

Coins - A Short History Of Coinage And Coin Collecting

2006-07-13T18:21:00.000-07:00

The coins jingling around in your pocket or weighing down your purse
usually don't attract much attention. The recent introduction of Statehood
quarters by the US Mint has generated interest in the history of coins.
Coin collecting is on the increase. We tend to take coins for granted, but
really they are an essential part of life. Before coins were invented,
barter was the system predominantly used to buy and sell.Many things were
used as a standard of wealth, including cattle. This is very inconvenient.
Imagine having to carry a cow in your pocket to be used to buy your daily
needs. Coins provided a convenient way to transport and store wealth.
A brief discussion of coinage and its history follows.

The coin is defined by the Encylopedia Britannica as being a piece of metal
or, rarely, of some other material (such as leather or porcelain) certified
by a mark or marks upon it as being of a specific intrinsic or exchange
value. An ancient people called the Lydians are credited with producing
the first coins around 600 BC. The Lydian empire was in present day Turkey
on a major trade route between east and west. The coins were crude, being
of irregular shape and weight, but quickly became popular with merchants
and the people.

King Croesus, who ruled Lydia from 560 - 546 BC authorized the first
government certified coins. This meant they were guaranteed to contain a
standard weight and purity of metal. This was a major step for coins
aining universal acceptance for payment of goods and services.

Coin production in ancient times was laborious and time consuming. Coins
were produced by hammering gold, silver, copper, or other precious metal
discs, called blanks, with a bronze or iron die
Coin design among early minters was rough and unattractive. Alexander the
Great, king of Macedonia from 336 - 323 BC began the practice of putting
important persons or gods on coinage. Alexander's coins at first featured
Greek gods and heroes. Later, he included monarchs - chiefly himself - on
the coinage. Most of the basic elements of modern coin design were
develeped during this early period in history.

Italian craftsmen working in the late 1400's created the first main
improvements in coin production. They produced more modern equipment which
increased production capacity, quality, and beauty in design. More
improvements to the minting process came during the Industrial Revolution
of the late 1800 - 1900's.

Modern US nickles, quarters, dimes, half dollars, and dollars are produced
from rolls of metal which are first fed through a machine called a blanking
press which cuts discs from the metal which are the proper diameter. The
blanks are then washed, heated, and edges rolled to produce the rim. The
blanks are then fed through a striking press giving the coin its final
design. Pennies are minted from pre-punched blanks purchased by the Mint

The first coins produced in America were minted by a gentleman named John
Hull in the Massachusetts Bay colony in 1616. He was granted authority to
mint coins by the General Court of the colony to help relieve a general
shortage of coinage.

Before this, wampum, an Indian form of money formed from mussel shells,
beaver pelts, and other commodities as well as an assortment of coinage
from Spain, France, and other countries had served as money. England
continously ignored the colonies pleas for coinage, so the colonies
utilized their own coinage, and coinage from other countries.

The Spanish Dollar and its fractional parts circulated freely here. It was
officially sanctioned by various American state and national governments
until 1857. A real (pronounced ree-al) was equivalent to 12 1/2 cents. Two
reals equaled a quarter dollar, giving us the expression "two bits".

Because the Spanish Dollar circulated so freely here, and not English
coinage, the first American goverment made the dollar the basis of money,
instead of the pound. Thomas Jefferson, a member of the House Of
Representatives, in 1784 advocated the use of the dollar, and a decimal
system of fractional parts. This was eventually adopted by the Continental
Congress

The first mint building wasn't built until 1792 in Philadelphia
Pennslyvania. The first coin struck was a coin called a half disme. These
were silver pieces, equal in value to the nickel, a later introduction.
Later mints were established at Denver, San Francisco, New Orleans, and
Carson City. Currently, the Department of the Treasury operates mints at
Philadelphia, Denver, and San Francisco

Beginning In The Hobby Of Coin Collecting - The Basics

2006-07-12T15:57:00.000-07:00

Beginning a basic coin collection is really quite easy. Coin collecting is probably one to the easiest hobbies to get started in. All you really need to get started is to use the change in your own pocket.
Or, if you are like most people you have one or two jars of change sitting around. If you have one or more of these, dump one out on the table in front of you. Find some clean cups, Styrofoam coffee cups will work just fine.
Some other basic things you will find useful to get started. Some coin folders in the various denominations - penny, nickel, dime, quarter, half dollar. A Redbook, which is a book which has the values of all US coins listed since the beginning of the Republic. Coin wrappers of assorted sizes and a magnifying glass.
And a notebook to list the coins you have in your rolls and folders
The first step is to sort the various denominations of coins into the cups. As you work, try not to handle the coins by the face. It is best to use a pair of light fabric gloves as you sort the coins, or just be very careful and handle them only by the edges.
Once you have the coins sorted, then you will want to sort the coins by year and mint mark. There will be more on mint marks later. Pick out the nicer looking coins, using a magnifying glass look for scratches and dents. The point is to find the nicest coins you can in every year and with every mint mark. I usually save any coin I find for a particular year and mint, upgrading them as I find nicer ones later on. Place the coins in the folders in the appropriate slots, marking down in your
notebook the ones you have.
The coins in poor shape, and duplicates you can roll in the wrappers and take to the bank for money.
So now, if you followed these steps you will have formed a basic coin collection! There is much more to learn in this fascinating hobby.

Plastic Toy Army Soldiers

2006-06-29T13:04:00.000-07:00

Plastic toy soldiers are available in three major scales, or sizes. The largest of these is 1/18 scale, which are about four inches, or 103 millimeters high. These measurements are only approximate as different manufactures tend to do things their own way. The major manufactures in this scale are BBI, McFarland Toys, Papo and Bullyland. There are others. 1/32 scale soldiers, which are approximately 2 ¼ inches in height, or 56 millimeters. The smallest scale commonly manufactured is 1/72 scale, 25 millimeter, or approximately one inch in height. The 1/72 scale are more consistent in size between manufacturers.

Plastic toy soldiers run the gamut from action figures, toys and collectables with each manufacturer pretty much producing one type of product. Action figures tend to be larger, up to twelve inches tall and include usually include accessories like uniforms and weapons which can be interchangeable between figures. They usually have moveable arms, legs, and head. Plastic toy soldiers tend to be smaller, but still large enough for small hands to grip. These are usually in the 1/32 scale category. The smaller 1/72 scale plastic army soldiers tend to be collectables, for war games or diorama building. Some of these are unpainted.

There are many manufactures of plastic toy soldiers. A few are outlined here.
Dusty Trail - six inch, 1/12 scale action figures. This is a small but interesting line.

Airfix - manufactures and extensive line of mostly World War 2 1/72 and 1/32 scale plastic army soldiers. The line includes other historical soldiers such as Napoleonic soldiers and spacemen.

BMC - A nice line of plastic toy soldiers. It includes World War 2 plastic soldiers and accessories. There are also Civil War soldiers, Revolutionary War soldiers, an Alamo play set, and some cowboy and Indian play sets.

Armies In Plastic - Collectable 1/32 scale line of plastic toy soldiers. This interesting company has American Civil War, Napoleonic Wars, American Northwest, Spanish American War, Boxer Rebellion, and Colonial Africa plastic soldiers included in its offerings.

Plastic toy soldiers are offered in a variety of different scales and types from action figures to collectable plastic soldiers. Plastic army soldiers are fun toys for kids, used in war gaming, or for the serious historical collector who wishes accurate representation of the soldiers from other eras.

Short History Of The Knight - Knight Toy Figures

2006-06-28T15:15:00.000-07:00

The knight is a romantic figure which beckons to us across the misty pages of history. Pledged to be brave, loyal, courteous, and to protect the innocent, the knight epitomized the best ideal that a man could strive to become. The knight was usually a man of noble birth who had served first as a page, or attendant in a knights household. Later the knight errant served as a squire to the knight. His duties now were to take care of the knights horse and armor.

The class of knights, or mounted warriors, came into existence to meet a specific threat. European kingdoms were under threat from a number of sources – Vikings from the north, Muslims from the south and east, and invaders from the east. The kings in the ninth century had only infantry to defend against these threats. Infantry alone was vulnerable to the mounted invaders.

So the class of knights arose. The training and maintenance of these mounted warriors
was a hardship to the courts. Feudalism arose as a process to maintain the knights. The knight, after pledging an oath of loyalty to the king, received a parcel of land, called a fief, to support him. With the land went serfs who were to serve the knight. The knight then had to answer the call when the king sent word that he needed assistance in battle. Usually this entailed a certain number of days a year that the knight had to serve the king. He rest of the time he resided at his fief.

Chivalry as a code of conduct for knights arose from this feudalistic system. This code of honor entailed a number of practices which included not attacking an unarmed knight, and ensure that the knight fight only for Christian glory and honor, among other things.

Toy knights and figurines serve to replicate the honor and glory of that past age. Many of the ads here on this page will have an assortment of toy knights to suit your purposes. William Britains, Conte Collectables, and Forward March all offer selections of 1/32 scale toy knight figures.

A Brief History Of The Castle

2006-06-27T15:31:00.000-07:00

The romantic vision of the knight is often accompanied by the image of a castle, high on a
hill. The history of the castle is imbedded in our culture. The word castle is derived from
the Latin word castellum, or small fortified place.
The cities of Rome were walled to provide for their defense and this is the origin of the
first castles. These were usually constructed of wood, on top of a mound, or motte. A ditch
was usually dug around the structure to make approach more difficult.
As the art of warfare developed, the castle needed to be made more complex to make it
harder to capture. Multiple walls were constructed, one inside another, the area between
the walls being called a bailey.
The history of the castle continues with its still further development of large towering
structure in the center of the castle called the keep by the Normans. This was the last
defensive position within the castle and featured thick masonry walls and small defensive
window to allow archers and other defensive measures. The keep would also contain living
quarters for the castle dwellers, a well for water, and stores of food and weapons.
Keeps were first constructed as rectangular structures, later they were made round because
that shape is easier to defend.

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At about this time the moat replaced the ditch as the outside defense of the castle.
The moat was wider and deeper, and preferably filled with water. It was crossed by a
drawbridge which could be raised and lowered at will.
By the 1200’s the final evolution of the history of the castle occurred as they became
increasingly complex. The keep was made smaller and stronger. The apartments were moved
out of the keep and into larger structures located in the bailey.
The early sixteenth century saw the invention of gunpowder and the development of cannon,
missiles, and guns. The history of the castle as a military tool came to an end, as they
were no longer impregnable to these modern weapons.

Toy Soldiers - Military - Army Toys - Model Soldiers

2006-06-26T16:11:00.000-07:00

Most adult men had toy soldiers as young boys. We didn’t have just a few, either. I had
enough to fight several wars at one time. Army and military toys are still popular with
children. With adults, too, with the advent of vast selections of collectable toy soldiers
and military toys.
Toy soldiers are manufactured from a variety of materials. You will find plastic, wood,
tin, metal, and resin. Some are prepainted, some require painting and some minor assembly.
There are collectable toy soldiers, soldiers for war games, and soldiers for kids.
There are many different types of soldiers. You will find soldiers in the character of
American Civil War, American Revolutionary War, World War 2, Alamo, and Cowboys and Indians.
Other model soldiers from other armies can also be found.

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You will find two basic sizes of toy and model soldiers - 1/72 and 1/32 scales. 1/72 scale is
25 millimeter and 1/32 is 54 mm tall. From model train manufacturers you will also find some
1/87 (HO Scale) toy soldiers.
Army and military toys are also popular. These consist mostly of plastic and diecast
military airplanes and vehicles. These are available in several scales including 1/87, 1/64,
1/48, and 1/24 among others.
You will find in this section various articles about toy and model soldiers, army and military
toys. You will also find links to companies selling these products. Hopefully the information
provided by these articles help you choose the products which suit your needs

Build A Bird Feeder Kit

2006-06-23T12:38:00.000-07:00

Building a wood bird feeder from a kit is easy and a great project for kids. The kits can
be assembled in one session, another can be used to paint and decorate. Bird feeders and houses
may be painted on the outside, but should be left unfinished on the inside.

A short pictorial guide is located at this URL:
http://www.thc-toys-hobbies-crafts.com/woodcrafts/buildwoodbirdfeeder.html

For available bird house and bird feeder kits as well as other wood crafts, visit our Ebay store:

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Ship In A Bottle

2006-06-22T13:48:00.000-07:00

The art of model ship building dates back many centuries. The Egyptians, Phoenicians and Greeks all
built model ships of varying sizes and shapes. Glass bottles have also been around for a long
time. Archeology indicates the Phoenicians had glass bottles, so they have also been around for
thousands of years, also.

It wasn’t until the mid-1850’s that glass technology advanced enough to give a reasonably clear,
bubble free bottle suitable for model building. Sailors at sea whiled away the long hours carving
and making many things and a high degree of skill was developed by many of these mariners. No one
knows who first put a model ship in a bottle, but it occurred sometime during the mid 19th century.

The sailors used available materials, scraps of wood, thread and sail. The common tool was the
jackknife most sailors carried. Usually the mariners modeled the ship they were on, or other ships
they were familiar with. These were built outside the bottle, carefully measured to ensure the
completed model would fit through the neck. The masts were folded down and rigged so that they
could be pulled up after the model was inserted into the bottle.

The ship in a bottle is a type of mechanical puzzle called an impossible bottle. It is called this
because items thought be impossible to fit inside a bottle are placed there, leaving the observer to
wonder how it came to be. Many types of items can be found in this traditional puzzle, including
decks of cards, tennis balls, scissors, and of course the ship in a bottle.

Wood Bird House Kits Make Ideal Cub Scout Crafts - Youth Group Activity

2006-06-15T16:03:00.000-07:00

Wood crafts are an ideal activity for youth groups and as cub scout crafts.
These wooden bird house kits are easy to assemble
and include all parts necessary to build them. All you need are paints, nails and glue. Some of the
kits have the nails included in them.

Youth group activity leaders of Church groups, Cub scout troops, and other childrens
organizations are always looking for inexpensive crafts for the kids to do as activities, and these
wood crafts are ideal as children's group activities. Wood
crafts teach kids valuable lessons in organizing, reading and understanding instructions, and the
satisfaction one gets from a job well done. And these wood crafts are useful when finished.

Wooden bird bird house kits are
great crafts for kids! Create a backyard nature center.

We have a very good selection of wooden bird house kits. See our
Online store
for availble models and quantities.

These kid crafts kits make an excellent activity for cub scout troops!
Wood craft kits are fun and easy to assemble and these bird house kits are sure to please both kids and the
our little feathered friends when they are built.

Wood projects also make ideal activities for summer camps. They are quick to assemble as all parts
are pre cut.

HO Scale Train Track

2006-05-24T16:46:00.000-07:00

Bachman EZ Track has revolutionized the model train hobby with its ease of use
and durable construction. This model train track is built right into a plastic base
eliminating the need to staple or glue cork or foam roadbed down before you can
enjoy running your model train. With EZ Track you simply snap the track sections
together, plug the transformer wire into the terminal section, put the train on the
track and move the controller arm. HO scale train track was never so easy to use!
HO scale train track has evolved over the years. The early years of model railroading,
hobbyists had to lay track similar to the method used in real trains. The ties had to be cut
from basswood stock, a laborious process. The ties were glued to cork roadbed after the rail
route was laid out. The stainless steel rails were then configured to the roadbed and
carefully nailed in place. A track gauge was used to ensure that the rails were the correct
distance apart. Track laying using this method was as much an art as a hobby.

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The advent of Snap Track made the track laying process much easier and faster. Atlas is now
the leading manufacturer of this type of HO scale train track. The track is pre-mounted on
plastic ties in standard length. Straight track is available in a standard of 10 inch lengths,
as well as an assortment of shorter sections. Flex track, which is ideal for either custom
radius curves or long runs of straight, connection free track sections. Curves are available
in fifteen, eighteen, or twenty two inch radius. Partial sections of 1/3 and ½ are also
available. Different types of switches are also available for this track. Code refers to
the height of the rails. Code 100 is the most common type available. Code 83 is scaled to
accurately represent the rails on a real railroad.
Model train track took a big step forward with pre-mounted track. This HO scale track was
pioneered by Bachman, under the name of EZ Track. This track was already mounted on the
roadbed which made it easy to have a model railroad up and running quickly. EZ Track
come is two different types, steel and nickel silver, as well as an array of different
types of sections. There are eighteen and twenty two inch curves, different lengths of
straight and crossings.
Atlas and Lifelike also manufacture similar products to EZ Track and Lifelike has an adaptor
which allows EZ Track to be used with its Lock-Tite product. Atlas HO scale train track
sections can be
removed from the roadbed and used in a conventional layout.